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Just looking in to coolent filters what is the way to go as to a easy and cheeper set up after market systems are by far less cost You got one? I am a back yard Mec.so some insite with Pic. of your install and prices also a help with where You shop.I have a 2005 SD 6.0 4x4 28,000mile truck as new and want to keep it that way so Help will be thanked for in advance...I have a USA and a Canadian address so can shop any where and get parts Thanks for Your time ..Bush
I don't see the need for coolant filters. Never needed one on any vehicle and don't see the need to ever need one. I can only imagine problems occurring from having one. Out on the road the filter plugs up from who knows what and blocks coolant flow. Motor over heats and now your stuck in the middle of nowhere. Only way to continue is to pull the filter out loosing way over a gallon of fluid which will cause cavitation problems if you try to continue down the road.
I don't see the need for coolant filters. Never needed one on any vehicle and don't see the need to ever need one. I can only imagine problems occurring from having one. Out on the road the filter plugs up from who knows what and blocks coolant flow. Motor over heats and now your stuck in the middle of nowhere. Only way to continue is to pull the filter out loosing way over a gallon of fluid which will cause cavitation problems if you try to continue down the road.
Just my opinion.
The reason for having a coolant filter is simply this....Navstar apparently is unable to remove all of the casting sand from the engine block during mfg. This sand then plugs the oil cooler and EGR cooler, causing egr cooler failure which allows antifreeze into the cylinders causing blown head gaskets, cracked pistons and bent rods.
The filter kit is a "bypass" type which means that only a portion of the coolant goes thru the filter so it cannot block the coolant flow, causing the engine to overheat as you suggest. There are shut off valves provided so that the filter cannister can be isolated, allowing changing the filter with a minimal loss of coolant.
This problem is pretty much confined to the early 6.0 engines but I think a filter wouldn't hurt on any Diesel engine as there is lots of junk moving around in there. I have one on my 6.4
The reason for having a coolant filter is simply this....Navstar apparently is unable to remove all of the casting sand from the engine block during mfg. This sand then plugs the oil cooler and EGR cooler, causing egr cooler failure which allows antifreeze into the cylinders causing blown head gaskets, cracked pistons and bent rods.
The filter kit is a "bypass" type which means that only a portion of the coolant goes thru the filter so it cannot block the coolant flow, causing the engine to overheat as you suggest. There are shut off valves provided so that the filter cannister can be isolated, allowing changing the filter with a minimal loss of coolant.
This problem is pretty much confined to the early 6.0 engines but I think a filter wouldn't hurt on any Diesel engine as there is lots of junk moving around in there. I have one on my 6.4
X2 You just saved me from typing the same thing LOL
How do You tell if I have a early 6.0 as You said they are the ones to worry about.?I have a 2005 F250 SD 4x4 28,000miles never on the road in winter till now and that will be south as of DEC.25 ye ha....Can't wait....Bush
At work we install the wix or napa filter head part number 4019 its 42.00 for the kit and a 4070 filter. We install them inline of the heater hose not the purge tube. You can do it either way but the heater hose provides more flow and when the heater starts blowing cool air its time to change the filter.
How do You tell if I have a early 6.0 as You said they are the ones to worry about.?I have a 2005 F250 SD 4x4 28,000miles never on the road in winter till now and that will be south as of DEC.25 ye ha....Can't wait....Bush
I would not worry much about what year/job# your engine is. If it's a Navstar/International engine put a filter on it.Bob
Thanks Chambers. I've always wondered about the need for coolant filters too. Since I have a 7.3, no EGR cooler, and over 100K miles, I'm banking on it being unnecessary.
I love this forum!
There is more to DIESEL coolant filters than catching up the dirt. The real filter also have SCA chemicals in it, that slowly dissolve over the time to replenish lost balance. Even Powerstrokes don't require SCA testing after filling up with balanced coolant, it doesn't hurt to have it balanced to prevent engine cavitation.
I do own Detroit diesel as well, that with wet sleeves require SCA balancing, so for about $60 I bought the same housing and element for my Ford 7.3 diesel. Probably overkill for the engine with 200k at the time, but I sleep better
At work we install the wix or napa filter head part number 4019 its 42.00 for the kit and a 4070 filter. We install them inline of the heater hose not the purge tube. You can do it either way but the heater hose provides more flow and when the heater starts blowing cool air its time to change the filter.
That method probably works well in Cal. not so well in Ontario @ minus 37F. We need all the coolant flow thru the heater core possible!
You can get everything right at Napa,,,I happened to have a old fuel/water seperater for my last boat(in good shape, basicly the same filter base/housing), picked up the filter at Napa, the 3/4 x 3/8 x 3/4 T, and the 3/8 T, some 3/8 heater hose, used ViseGrips to pinch the lines off,,mounted the filter in usual place,,,thing works great,,,,,so far as far as I can tell same temp on the inlet as the outlet side,,so flow is good still,,,have about 1,500 miles on the filter setup,,,pics in Gallery !,,,,,,Mark