Smoking wires ?
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Smoking wires ?
I am very close to setting this truck on fire! (Just kidding, I love it too much for that.)
I recently changed the alternator and voltage regulator on my 78 Supercab F150 (460. The truck had been running fine up until that point. When I hooked the battery cables back up, the fusable line on the wire between the solenoid and the alternator burned out.
1) I checked FTE and looked at another dentside to make sure that I had the alternator hooked up right. It is.
2) Changed the solenoid. Still smoked.
3) Used the solenoid from the other dentside. Still smoked.
The alternator must be the problem, because everything was working before I changed it. I know it's probably something simple, but I am baffled.
Any ideas? Thanks, Mark
I recently changed the alternator and voltage regulator on my 78 Supercab F150 (460. The truck had been running fine up until that point. When I hooked the battery cables back up, the fusable line on the wire between the solenoid and the alternator burned out.
1) I checked FTE and looked at another dentside to make sure that I had the alternator hooked up right. It is.
2) Changed the solenoid. Still smoked.
3) Used the solenoid from the other dentside. Still smoked.
The alternator must be the problem, because everything was working before I changed it. I know it's probably something simple, but I am baffled.
Any ideas? Thanks, Mark
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It is an AutoZone special. PN: DL7078. Just did a quick google search, and it's listed at 61 amps on AutoZone.com. The voltage regulator is also from AutoZone and it's 4179M02.
I swapped the old voltage reg. back on, and the wires still smoked.
I assume that they gave me the right alternator . . . . . but with AutoZone who knows?
Still better than Advance though ....... LOL
I swapped the old voltage reg. back on, and the wires still smoked.
I assume that they gave me the right alternator . . . . . but with AutoZone who knows?
Still better than Advance though ....... LOL
Last edited by Metal-Is-Money; Oct 30, 2010 at 06:03 PM. Reason: More info.
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I just though of something. . . . . the battery is a 1000 CCA. Could that be the problem? I just remembered that I put the bigger battery in after my alternator swap because my last battery was drained.
Hmmmm . . . . . . maybe I need to try it with a weaker battery.
Hmmmm . . . . . . maybe I need to try it with a weaker battery.
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1000 CCA (Cold Cranking Amps) is just more plates within the case and has more power available which seems stronger at -20
That is not the problem
your problem is with the charging circuit only.
That is not the problem
your problem is with the charging circuit only.
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That makes sense. If everything else is testing good, then it must be the "new" alternator. I will ****** it off and run it over to AutoZone for a test. 
Thank you very much, and I appreciate the wiring diagram. There are some wires that need rerouting when I get this ole truck running again.
Thank you very much, and I appreciate the wiring diagram. There are some wires that need rerouting when I get this ole truck running again.
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Great advice and you were right about the alternator. Autozone sold me a bad one. When I took it back, they replaced it for me.
I replaced the fusible link.
However, once I installed the new alternator now the starter has gone crazy.
When I turn the key to the ACC position, it begins cranking. Sometimes it stops when I pull the plug on the solenoid, and sometimes it doesn't. The only thing I can think of now is that the ignition switch is bad.
Alternator = good.
Solenoid = good. (I have tested 3, and have a new one on it now.)
Fusible link = good.
Ignition switch = ?
Any ideas?
BTW: I will try to get some pics of the truck up. It is a yellow and black 2x2 supercab. Anybody here got one?
I replaced the fusible link.
However, once I installed the new alternator now the starter has gone crazy.
When I turn the key to the ACC position, it begins cranking. Sometimes it stops when I pull the plug on the solenoid, and sometimes it doesn't. The only thing I can think of now is that the ignition switch is bad.
Alternator = good.
Solenoid = good. (I have tested 3, and have a new one on it now.)
Fusible link = good.
Ignition switch = ?
Any ideas?
BTW: I will try to get some pics of the truck up. It is a yellow and black 2x2 supercab. Anybody here got one?
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Austin, TX
If replacing the alternator caused the fusible link to break and replacing the first alternator solved the problem, then most likely the first alternator had a shorted rectifier diode, assuming everything was connected properly.
If the starter turns when you have the key turned to ACC, then it's possible that the ignition switch is bad. The fact that removing the wire running to the 'S' terminal of the solenoid (assuming this is what you're talking about) stops the starter supports this. However, the fact that sometimes it still turns means that the solenoid is faulty, or the starter is drawing too much current and is arc-welding the solenoid slug in place.
If the starter turns when you have the key turned to ACC, then it's possible that the ignition switch is bad. The fact that removing the wire running to the 'S' terminal of the solenoid (assuming this is what you're talking about) stops the starter supports this. However, the fact that sometimes it still turns means that the solenoid is faulty, or the starter is drawing too much current and is arc-welding the solenoid slug in place.
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Well, I finally got around to working on the truck today.
Replaced the ignition switch = still starting by itself, except now it cranks with the key in the off position. As soon as I slip the positive cable on, it starts cranking.
After that, I completly cut out the burn wiring and spiced in new wires from one of my donor trucks. It's still doing it.
At this point, I guess the only thing to do is to unwrap and trace all of the wires until I find the short that's making it crank by itself.
Thanks very much for the help and ideas. I'm at a dead end here, so I guess I will look up a wiring diagram on this site and start checking.
Thanks, Mark
Replaced the ignition switch = still starting by itself, except now it cranks with the key in the off position. As soon as I slip the positive cable on, it starts cranking.
After that, I completly cut out the burn wiring and spiced in new wires from one of my donor trucks. It's still doing it.
At this point, I guess the only thing to do is to unwrap and trace all of the wires until I find the short that's making it crank by itself.
Thanks very much for the help and ideas. I'm at a dead end here, so I guess I will look up a wiring diagram on this site and start checking.
Thanks, Mark
