high idle solenoid
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
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high idle solenoid
I do have power at my high idle solenoid but it doesn't advance the ip. I have searched and keep finding posts to check the connections to see if it has power...but mine does, it just doesn't advance the throttle. where do I get one?
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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Are you pushing down on the throttle to set it? The solenoid itself is not strong enough to move the throttle arm on the side of the IP, you have to step on the throttle and that lifts the pressure off the solenoid and allows it to set in the fast idle position, then when you release the throttle the truck will be idling higher. Also, are you sure you're checking the correct solenoid? The one you need is right by the upper radiator hose, with a little plunger sticking out and hitting the throttle arm. And since I mentioned the plunger, make sure yours is adjusted properly - with the engine off the plunger should be almost touching the throttle arm, if yours is far from it you can turn he plunger with a 1/4" wrench and unscrew it out some to where it almost touches...
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
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I have tried to set it by pushing it down on the pedal.
I have owned the truck for six years and it always advanced the engine until it got the engine warmed up. Am I understanding that you are suggesting that it would get out of adjustment, proly through engine vibration?
I have owned the truck for six years and it always advanced the engine until it got the engine warmed up. Am I understanding that you are suggesting that it would get out of adjustment, proly through engine vibration?
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
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THe sender for the high idle is on the passenger side directly behind the thermostat housing. you have to look from the top to see it b/c the filter is on one side and the rad. hose in front of it.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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I have tried to set it by pushing it down on the pedal.
I have owned the truck for six years and it always advanced the engine until it got the engine warmed up. Am I understanding that you are suggesting that it would get out of adjustment, proly through engine vibration?
I have owned the truck for six years and it always advanced the engine until it got the engine warmed up. Am I understanding that you are suggesting that it would get out of adjustment, proly through engine vibration?
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
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no i did not hear a solenoid click on a running diesel. (i spend most of my awake hours with earplugs in anyways) i did note it extend and move the arm. my cold advance doesnt seem to change the idle. it just seems to change the tone of the engine to that of electric rattlesnakes. id say my gain was only a few hundred rpm. cold advance is instant where high idle takes a sec or two.
id thought beforehand that my high idle just didnt work. maybe another interesting point is is that my engine starts exactly the same with the cold advance plugged in or not. most folk report hard or no starts without it?
id thought beforehand that my high idle just didnt work. maybe another interesting point is is that my engine starts exactly the same with the cold advance plugged in or not. most folk report hard or no starts without it?
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
Likes: 8
From: Maine (NorCal Native)
You state you have 12v+ at the high idle solenoid ... That indicates the Thermal Switch is ok.
So, when the motor is cold (under 112F water temp)
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
So, when the motor is cold (under 112F water temp)
- Turn the key on
- Unplug the high idle solenoid
- Reach over and hold the throttle lever open a little
- Plug the high idle solenoid back in
Does it activate ???- Yes, It works ...
- No, The solenoid is bad.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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What Festus said, that's the easiest way to check it.
Also, if at cold idle your engine rattles like a PSD, then your cold advance is working like it should. Additionally, the fast idle is indeed only a few hundred rpms higher than normal idle, if you gain 300 rpms you can consider yourself lucky. The only reason I can get more out of mine is cause I changed the geometry of it some, so now the solenoid hits the throttle arm at a lower position thus turning it more for the same amount of throw at the plunger.
Also, if at cold idle your engine rattles like a PSD, then your cold advance is working like it should. Additionally, the fast idle is indeed only a few hundred rpms higher than normal idle, if you gain 300 rpms you can consider yourself lucky. The only reason I can get more out of mine is cause I changed the geometry of it some, so now the solenoid hits the throttle arm at a lower position thus turning it more for the same amount of throw at the plunger.
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 6,496
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From: So. Jersey
If you find that your solinoid is faulty, remove it from the I.P. Pull back the rubber boot to expose the widings for the electro-magnet. Check the ends of the windings and make sure they are still soldered to the connection. I repaired a couple that one end of the winding just became detached.
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
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Yours seems to be a special case, in a good way. Either that, or my solenoid just don't have the throw it should... How far out does your plunger move when the solenoid is energized?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Sep 2010
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I guess that I don't know for sure that it was my high idle and not my cold avance. It used to speed up the engine, I don't have a working tach, I would guess 200 rpm. Whatever it did speed it up, it was perfect to get the engine warm faster without sounding like someone was standing on the throttle. The speed sounded just right.