I need help with voltage.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
I need help with voltage.
So i got two good batteries that read 100% charge, and an altenator that i checked and also read good.
My problem is that i have low voltage, so low that when i try to crank it up it sounds dead.
Is my glow plug relay out? HELP please.
My problem is that i have low voltage, so low that when i try to crank it up it sounds dead.
Is my glow plug relay out? HELP please.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 419
Likes: 0
From: Timmins, Ontario, Canada
Cranking speed and GP relay/controller are unrelated (As long as you're waiting for the Wait To Start light to go out before cranking - they pull a lot of current). Bad GPs would be if you're cranking well and flowing fuel but it still won't fire.
What is "Good Batteries" / 100% charge if the voltage is low? Did you measure the voltage with a meter? A battery that reads "Full Charge" on a home charger isn't necessarily a healthy battery. A battery that can't produce over 12V is nearly dead, and a battery that reads full and doesn't provide the necessary cranking amps is internally damaged/worn out/frozen.
What is "Good Batteries" / 100% charge if the voltage is low? Did you measure the voltage with a meter? A battery that reads "Full Charge" on a home charger isn't necessarily a healthy battery. A battery that can't produce over 12V is nearly dead, and a battery that reads full and doesn't provide the necessary cranking amps is internally damaged/worn out/frozen.
Senior User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 387
Likes: 1
From: Bald Knob AR
You mean low amperage? Just because a battery show's full charge does not mean it has the amps to start a vehicle. Get someone to put a load test on the battery's. I've seen a lot of battery's show full charge and go dead as soon as a load is applied to them. If your battery's load test out good then you have a connection problem or bad battery cable not allowing the amperage to get to the starter.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Cranking speed and GP relay/controller are unrelated (As long as you're waiting for the Wait To Start light to go out before cranking - they pull a lot of current). Bad GPs would be if you're cranking well and flowing fuel but it still won't fire.
What is "Good Batteries" / 100% charge if the voltage is low? Did you measure the voltage with a meter? A battery that reads "Full Charge" on a home charger isn't necessarily a healthy battery. A battery that can't produce over 12V is nearly dead, and a battery that reads full and doesn't provide the necessary cranking amps is internally damaged/worn out/frozen.
What is "Good Batteries" / 100% charge if the voltage is low? Did you measure the voltage with a meter? A battery that reads "Full Charge" on a home charger isn't necessarily a healthy battery. A battery that can't produce over 12V is nearly dead, and a battery that reads full and doesn't provide the necessary cranking amps is internally damaged/worn out/frozen.
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
voltage regulator they go bad from time to time a cheap fix imo
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 280
Likes: 0
From: Everywhere, USA
Did auto zone test the batteries separately? If not, you don't know what you have. disconnect each battery and charge them separately over night then take them back and have them load checked. If you have not already done so.
Once you know you have 2 good, fully charged batteries test the voltage at the terminals with the truck running. Test this with a volt meter. You should have at least 12 volts. With the volt meter still attached turn on your head lights. The voltage should increase. I don't know the exact number, but I would expect some thing around 13.5 volts. If it does, chances are your voltage regulator and alternator are ok.
After that you should start looking for corroded cables, bad connections, starter load testing, ect...
Let us know what your voltages are and results of load test and we can help you further.
Once you know you have 2 good, fully charged batteries test the voltage at the terminals with the truck running. Test this with a volt meter. You should have at least 12 volts. With the volt meter still attached turn on your head lights. The voltage should increase. I don't know the exact number, but I would expect some thing around 13.5 volts. If it does, chances are your voltage regulator and alternator are ok.
After that you should start looking for corroded cables, bad connections, starter load testing, ect...
Let us know what your voltages are and results of load test and we can help you further.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Did auto zone test the batteries separately? If not, you don't know what you have. disconnect each battery and charge them separately over night then take them back and have them load checked. If you have not already done so.
Once you know you have 2 good, fully charged batteries test the voltage at the terminals with the truck running. Test this with a volt meter. You should have at least 12 volts. With the volt meter still attached turn on your head lights. The voltage should increase. I don't know the exact number, but I would expect some thing around 13.5 volts. If it does, chances are your voltage regulator and alternator are ok.
After that you should start looking for corroded cables, bad connections, starter load testing, ect...
Let us know what your voltages are and results of load test and we can help you further.
Once you know you have 2 good, fully charged batteries test the voltage at the terminals with the truck running. Test this with a volt meter. You should have at least 12 volts. With the volt meter still attached turn on your head lights. The voltage should increase. I don't know the exact number, but I would expect some thing around 13.5 volts. If it does, chances are your voltage regulator and alternator are ok.
After that you should start looking for corroded cables, bad connections, starter load testing, ect...
Let us know what your voltages are and results of load test and we can help you further.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
i got my batteries tested at auto zone, and i read my voltage from a volt meter that attaches to my 12v cigarette lighter port. and as for my wait to start light, that light only comes on for like half a second and only relays one glow plug not all eight like it should.
1/2 the parts counter people do not know you can not test a dual battery system without unhooking the cables first.
They are trained on cars with single batteries.
A bad battery positive cable would not get the power to the starter, a discolored positive cable jacket near the passenger side positive battery terminal that looks like it has been hot would indicate a bad cable.
All the glow plugs are tied together, so all plugs should get power at the same time.
Your short glow time is an indication you have plugs that are burnt out.
If you only have one plug working, you will never get it started when the temps drop below freezing.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
The did they unhook the battery cables when they tested the batteries is my first thought on the first part of your post as has been said above.
1/2 the parts counter people do not know you can not test a dual battery system without unhooking the cables first.
They are trained on cars with single batteries.
A bad battery positive cable would not get the power to the starter, a discolored positive cable jacket near the passenger side positive battery terminal that looks like it has been hot would indicate a bad cable.
All the glow plugs are tied together, so all plugs should get power at the same time.
Your short glow time is an indication you have plugs that are burnt out.
If you only have one plug working, you will never get it started when the temps drop below freezing.
1/2 the parts counter people do not know you can not test a dual battery system without unhooking the cables first.
They are trained on cars with single batteries.
A bad battery positive cable would not get the power to the starter, a discolored positive cable jacket near the passenger side positive battery terminal that looks like it has been hot would indicate a bad cable.
All the glow plugs are tied together, so all plugs should get power at the same time.
Your short glow time is an indication you have plugs that are burnt out.
If you only have one plug working, you will never get it started when the temps drop below freezing.
i found my problem, turns out it was my starter after checking everything. and i do believe something is going on with my glow plugs im going to have to buy a new set.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
67Coupe
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
Feb 6, 2000 11:22 AM
