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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 01:35 AM
  #16  
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Thanks Overland,I'll keep that in mind.My luck and it would arc and blow-up my house 50 feet away!!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 10:01 AM
  #17  
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Lol, wow. Now that makes sense why my alternator has those big rubber caps over the wires on it.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #18  
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Yeah, I need to find some of those rubber caps, they are there for a reason and I found out the reason!
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 09:23 AM
  #19  
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More questions about the conversion

I noticed that there are sensors coming from the stock 1bbl carb. From what I understand is that these sensors monitor and adjust the fuel air mixture timing and so on through the computer and when they are not hooked up they can cause the timing to go off.
My question is, after putting the Offy intake, Edelbrock carb and EFI exhaust manifolds on, what should be done with the sensors that are not needed anymore?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2010 | 09:51 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by AMXchuck
I noticed that there are sensors coming from the stock 1bbl carb. From what I understand is that these sensors monitor and adjust the fuel air mixture timing and so on through the computer and when they are not hooked up they can cause the timing to go off.
My question is, after putting the Offy intake, Edelbrock carb and EFI exhaust manifolds on, what should be done with the sensors that are not needed anymore?
If you're going this route, you'll need to replace the ignition since the computer will be looking for signals from the carburetor to set the timing. You can either pull the computer out, along with all the sensors and the distributor, coil, etc. and replace it with an 1983 and prior DuraSpark II setup. (Plenty of writeups on here how to do that.)

Or, you could go the faster, although more expensive, route and get yourself an all-in-one DUI distributor.

Ford DUI - Street/Strip Version
 
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 05:50 PM
  #21  
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got another question

Ok, so I went to the local pick and pull and found an 1980 F150 4.9l with a complete DS2 system. I grabbed the wire harness (it wasn't hacked up), coil, distributor and ignition module.
I printed Post#5 from this thread and took it with me.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...wontt-run.html

After wards I went to auto parts store and bought a new module and coil just in case. Got home and started removing the old ignition and plugging in the new DS2 system. It was pretty straight forward, no modification needed.

Where I'm a little confused and the basis of my questions is, as I started to trace back the stock wire harness to pull out the old ignition it runs into the fire wall just to the left of the steering column if you're looking at it from the front and across the top of the engine to the smog crap, the AC unit, the starter solenoid, a sensor where the heater hoses come out on the top front of the block and the old electric choke wire.
The computer has not been removed from under the dash.
My question is, can I leave the rest of the harness the way it is, tape up all of the connectors that are not needed anymore, leave the computer in place and still use the DS2 ignition?
My assumption is yes since the timing advance is now going to be vacuum and not electronic but I want to ask first before I go any further. I tried finding more info using the search function but couldn't find anything specific.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 05:58 PM
  #22  
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I don't see any reason why not, as long as the old ignition system isn't plugged into anything that currently activates the ignition.

As long as the wiring harness comes out of the firewall (not the big plug that goes inside to the computer), connects to the ignition module, and then out to the distributor and coil, the old system isn't going to be doing anything at all except just sitting there.

One thing you'll want to be sure of is that a lot of the system runs off of vacuum lines too (that big cluster at the back of the valve cover), so if any of those are connected to live vacuum and then just sitting there, they could be a potential vacuum leak.

Why would you want to leave any of it in there anyway?
 
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 06:08 PM
  #23  
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Those damn vacuum lines and solenoid was the first thing disconnected. lol

I disconnected all of the TFI ignition plugs and all of the old carb and smog plugs.
The only ones still connected, like I said is the ac, the wires to the starter solenoid and the sensor to the heater hoses.
Another question, can I use the factory electric choke wire on the new Edelbrock 1403? I know the connection is different but it sure would save some time.

I get my intake tomorrow. I can't wait to get everything hooked up and running.
 
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 06:13 PM
  #24  
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If the Edelbrock is like my Holley, it needs a new connection. The Holley required 12V, whereas the stock is 7 volts. When I made a new one, I tied it in with the hot wire for the windshield wipers, since they were right there and only came on with the key. Spliced in a wire, put on a female slot, and put it on. Pretty easy.

Don't tie it in with anything ignition wise. I did that first, and it ran horribly.

That being said, I ran it for over a year with the stock 7 volt hookup on the Holley choke. It just didn't open up nearly as fast and probably cost me a little gas mileage around town until it was fully warmed up.

I can imagine your excitement for getting it done. They're fun!
 
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Old Nov 15, 2010 | 06:13 PM
  #25  
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The stock electric choke only gets ~7V current, and the edelbrock choke is designed for 12V. Using the stock wire *could* lead to the choke not releasing quickly enough, once it has been adjusted to work best for cold starts.


EDIT: Looks like AB beat to the punch, with basically the same info.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 09:26 AM
  #26  
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pics

can someone post some pic's that has installed the Edelbrock carb on the Offy intake?
I would like to see how some of the vacuum lines were ran and the throttle and kick down was hooked up.
Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2010 | 12:05 PM
  #27  
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Vacuum lines are easy to 'splain. The higher port on the front (choke linkage side, if I recall correctly) goes to the vacuum advance. The other port on the front can be used for any item that needs manifold vacuum (IE: auto trans and/or HVAC ETC.), while the large rear port can be used for PCV or power brake booster.
Can't help on throttle cable and kickdown, as I haven't done it, yet.....
 
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 07:37 PM
  #28  
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This weekend I am going to install my new offy dp and my edelbrock 1403, 500 cfm..My question is will I need to install a heater spacer if running an edelbrock carb? Or is that just for hollys?
 
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 07:54 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by 1eyedjack
This weekend I am going to install my new offy dp and my edelbrock 1403, 500 cfm..My question is will I need to install a heater spacer if running an edelbrock carb? Or is that just for hollys?
Stock exhaust manifold, or header/EFI manifolds?
If you will be using the stock exhaust manifold, it bolts to the bottom of the intake, just like the stock intake. It won't need any additional heat.
If you have headers or EFI manifolds, they do not provide any heat, and carb icing *can* occur. In this case, a heated spacer, or a custom plate added to the bottom with coolant running thru it would be advisable.
 
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Old Nov 17, 2010 | 08:13 PM
  #30  
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Im sorry, I should of said that Im also installing hedman header. I live in Colorado and it gets COLD here. Would jegs or summit or some site on here would have one.

Thanks for your help!!!! BTW I will be posting pix up after my installs this sundsay.. WoooooHooooo gotta love ford's with the inline 300's!!!!
 
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