ECT??? Thermostat
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 492
Likes: 2
ECT??? Thermostat
Well have come to the conclusion that my thermostat isn't working so figured I would check here for second opinion and thoughts.. ..
Let it idle today for about 1hr with an ambient air temp of 68*F.. and the ECT got only up to 156*F took it on the highway and rode it hard for about 10 miles and only saw 173*F.. (Readings are from my scan gauge)..Question... Is it safe to assume thermostat is stuck... And is this something I need to address right away??? What are the Pros/cons to leaving it like it is???
Thanks in advance
Let it idle today for about 1hr with an ambient air temp of 68*F.. and the ECT got only up to 156*F took it on the highway and rode it hard for about 10 miles and only saw 173*F.. (Readings are from my scan gauge)..Question... Is it safe to assume thermostat is stuck... And is this something I need to address right away??? What are the Pros/cons to leaving it like it is???
Thanks in advance
Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Millbrook, AL
Pros: None that I'm aware of
Cons: Exponentially increased bearing wear caused by oil not getting up to temp, decreased fuel mileage, Heater will suck, I'm sure there are more that I'm not thinking of
It's a twenty dollar part that takes about thirty minutes to change...if you're slow...no reason not to change it
Cons: Exponentially increased bearing wear caused by oil not getting up to temp, decreased fuel mileage, Heater will suck, I'm sure there are more that I'm not thinking of
It's a twenty dollar part that takes about thirty minutes to change...if you're slow...no reason not to change it
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 492
Likes: 2
Well I could do it myself but with my luck would snap off the Studs... So figure I would bring it in to the dealer (Anyone know if its covered under fords Premium care??) and have them check the steering stabilizer...
Also how would it effect bearing life EOT gets up to 180* while cruising on the highway??? Just drops down when idling or in bumper to bumper traffic???
Also how would it effect bearing life EOT gets up to 180* while cruising on the highway??? Just drops down when idling or in bumper to bumper traffic???
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 821
Likes: 1
From: Nashville
Your engine is designed to run properly at 190+ F. There is no "pro" to not having the t-stat changed, but there are plenty of "cons." It's an easy and (relatively) inexpensive fix. A true no-brainer, IMHO.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 492
Likes: 2
I have changed a few thermostats ... But to tell you the truth the whole stud thing and the bracket that bolts to the housing has me worried...(I have a tendency of snapping bolts) Can anyone recommend how to take the bracket off the stud.. Do I need to remove the sensor...Can I just unscrew the sensor and lift the bracket straight up..Or is the sensor going to snap before it releases
Oh yeah My truck is a 2005...
Thanks in advance
Oh yeah My truck is a 2005...
Thanks in advance
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 8,180
Likes: 669
From: Scio, OR
I had to remove the bracket in order to get the studs out properly. The bracket is connected to the EBP tube. I disconnected the bracket from the EBP tube, took the nuts off of the stud and lifted it out.
In my case, I also had to disconnect the fuel return line and move it out of the way. The stud backed out into the line and it would not come out. Others have not had that problem.
In my case, I also had to disconnect the fuel return line and move it out of the way. The stud backed out into the line and it would not come out. Others have not had that problem.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 821
Likes: 1
From: Nashville
I had the same fuel line problem as David, but I was able to barely get the stud past the line without removing or bending it. I also disconnected the EBP tube and cleaned it out while I was at it.
First, loosen degas cap and drain a couple of gallons of coolant from the radiator. Use clean gallon jugs so you can put it back when you're done. Then remove top radiator hose from t-stat housing. It has a spring clamp. I disconnected the IC tube from the 90 elbow first, then loosened the clamp on the other end and rotated it out of the way for easier access.
Once you have the hose off the t-stat housing, remove sensor. The two nuts that hold the sensor bracket are not hard to remove, and the studs are really pretty stout. Give everything a good shot of PB Blaster or some such if it looks corroded. Once the sensor bracket is off, remove the studs. The one by the fuel line will be slow-going because there's not a lot of room to turn the wrench (I used open/box ends). If the fuel line interferes with the stud too much, you can try to carefully pry it out of the way, or just remove it. Here's what it'll look like when you get to that point.
Once you get the studs out the housing comes right off. Check the new t-stat/housing assembly to be sure the rubber O-ring is in place, then reverse the procedure to install.
First, loosen degas cap and drain a couple of gallons of coolant from the radiator. Use clean gallon jugs so you can put it back when you're done. Then remove top radiator hose from t-stat housing. It has a spring clamp. I disconnected the IC tube from the 90 elbow first, then loosened the clamp on the other end and rotated it out of the way for easier access.
Once you have the hose off the t-stat housing, remove sensor. The two nuts that hold the sensor bracket are not hard to remove, and the studs are really pretty stout. Give everything a good shot of PB Blaster or some such if it looks corroded. Once the sensor bracket is off, remove the studs. The one by the fuel line will be slow-going because there's not a lot of room to turn the wrench (I used open/box ends). If the fuel line interferes with the stud too much, you can try to carefully pry it out of the way, or just remove it. Here's what it'll look like when you get to that point.
Once you get the studs out the housing comes right off. Check the new t-stat/housing assembly to be sure the rubber O-ring is in place, then reverse the procedure to install.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 492
Likes: 2
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
Hotshot
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 13,834
Likes: 26
From: Middle Tn.
My 05 has the studs and it was no big deal. The press. sw. bracket lifted off the studs. A little tight but no biggy.