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Is your idle up solenoid not working? There should be a solenoid on the pass side of your injection pump that raises the RPM about 200 until it warms up part 120* coolant temp...
Hang in there, the IDI gurus are awesome with answers. My 7.3 boom truck has the high idle light under the dash but it doesnt work, hoping to learn something here.
Is your idle up solenoid not working? There should be a solenoid on the pass side of your injection pump that raises the RPM about 200 until it warms up part 120* coolant temp...
Im not sure if the solenoid is working, would a 200 rpm difference be noticeable? Is there a way to check the solenoid?
BTW Otahyoni, some people are trying to convince me to build a flatbed when/if mine rusts out, and up until i saw ur truck i didnt like the idea. Now im thinking it looks good with the big tires! What size tires are they, and any lift? Mine is the supercab so i wonder what it would look like... Maybe someday...
There is no reason why you couldn't just hook up a old style choke cabel and pull it when you need it
Yes, there is a reason why this should not be done - it's not all that safe on a street vehicle. Cheap - sure, but with the cost of vernier throttle cables as low as it is now might as well get one of those and do it right.
Originally Posted by roy.prue
I have a 6.9 and im wondering if there is any way Switch or cable to make the truck idle higher on command?
I have both actually, I first did it electrically through the fast-idle solenoid, and then installed a vernier throttle cable off a big truck with a PTO-driven dump bed. The electric mod will only give you 200 rpms more than your regular idle, while with the cable you can go as high as your heart desires (up to the revv-limiter of course). I gotta fix me some dinner right now, but I'll be back later on with pics of the throttle cable and wiring diagrams for the solenoid switch...
Yes, there is a reason why this should not be done - it's not all that safe on a street vehicle. Cheap - sure, but with the cost of vernier throttle cables as low as it is now might as well get one of those and do it right.
I have both actually, I first did it electrically through the fast-idle solenoid, and then installed a vernier throttle cable off a big truck with a PTO-driven dump bed. The electric mod will only give you 200 rpms more than your regular idle, while with the cable you can go as high as your heart desires (up to the revv-limiter of course). I gotta fix me some dinner right now, but I'll be back later on with pics of the throttle cable and wiring diagrams for the solenoid switch...
I was thinking someone on here had done both.... IF you opt to use a second cable, please make sure that you use it carefully, as having a stuck/frozen cable while driving can really mess up a day. Had it happen on a loader a couple years ago while doing snow plowing. Fortunately the kill linkage was still working fine!
there are kits that are made for this called SEIC or stationary elevated idle control, just like the big trash trucks and dump trucks that when they pull up to a bin, you hear it kick it up a notch to power the hydraulics and pto, if equipped. trust me i would be wary of rigging anything up like this that is half assed. intakes and the sort are fine for jerking around but be careful with this and make sure you can shut it down at a moments notice, essentially like a toggle switch. im still looking for a link but you can search too, ill keep on it.
Well, here are some pics of what I have - like I said it's a vernier throttle cable assembly made specifically for this purpose, you turn the **** counterclockwise (out) and that raises the throttle, to lower the engine speed you turn the **** clockwise (in), and if you need to quickly return to idle you just push that big red button in the center. The cable part of this thing is not a fine-strand cable like your regular throttle cable, it's actually a single fat steel wire (much like what you find on a manual choke setup on a gasser). The way it was installed in the International truck I took this from: there is a second hole in the accelerator pedal right next to the one for the regular throttle cable, the vernier cable comes in from the dash and passes right through that hole and there is a cable stop on the other side - in other words when you turn the **** out the vernier cable pulls up on the end of the throttle pedal which in turn pulls on the factory throttle cable as if you're pushing on the pedal with your foot, however when the cable assembly is at its idle position you can still step on the throttle and the upper end of the pedal arm just slides in and out around the vernier cable without hanging up on anything (as the cable itself is not moving at all). This is the exact same way I installed it in my truck too, well I had to bend the cable wire some to make it line up with the pedal but that's no big deal as the cable itself is so rigid you need pliers to shape it - I drilled an 1/8" hole in the pedal arm right below the hole for the factory throttle cable and ran the vernier through there, the cable wire itself is much much smaller in diameter however a large hole for it to pass through ensure smooth throttle operation when the vernier is at idle position and also eliminates potential binding. The bracket for mounting the entire assembly utilizes two of the bolts that hold the steering column in place, so everything is as solid as can be - this way I can just smack the red button and she's back to 800 rpms instantly.