Hello all,

Since this is a technique question about exhaust removal, I decided to post here instead of the exhaust forum.

I’m planning on replacing the stock exhaust (cat back) on my ’94 Ranger 3.0 this summer. I’m looking for tips, shortcuts, advice, etc. on doing this. About the only tool I don’t have and don’t plan to buy for the job is a torch (I know, this is a BIG “missing tool”). That being said,

1. Should I consider doing this without a torch? How about without a lift? (Not buying one of THOSE, either -- wish I could, though...)
2. I was thinking of hacksawing away the weaker sections if possible, leaving me with the task of removing only the cat connection bolts (of course, I’d make sure I could remove the bolts first before sawing away the rest of the system). Is the hacksawing thing doable? Necessary?
3. I’ve watched a mechanic friend remove these bolts once by banging a slightly undersized socket onto the rust-reduced nut, then unbolting as usual. Is this a reliable method? I assume penetrating oil is a must, and I DO have a can of Kroil now, thanks to this forum!

I thank you all in advance for your tips and advice. (Tip #1 -- good safety goggles!)

 

Hi Mike,

I know we have exchanged some PMs, ...just one more suggestion, use some silicone spray to lube the rubber hangers,
which you will be re-using on your new exhaust. DO NOT use
oil (like WD-40, etc.) because the oil will attack the rubber....

Good luck!!!!

Bob

 

Ive never used a torch to remove exahaust, but a reciprocating saw is very handy for that. I do use a torch to heat the metal to bend for the hangers.

Tony Warren
Nebraska

 

I'd offer a couple of suggestions.

Kroil is good, squirt nuts and bolts a few times, a few days apart.

Instead of hack saw or sawz-all I'd go with a exhaust pipe cutter. Looks like a giant copper tubing cutter, but has 4 cutting wheels, about a one-third turn around the pipe, back and forth, and you'll have a nice square cut. About 20 dollars as I recall, mine is made by Lisle, bought it at Sears, but I've seen them lots of places.

Heat the outside threads (nut if that is what you have, or the part the bolt goes into, if not a nut) with a torch (regular propane is OK, I use MAPP, lots faster). You are looking to expand the larger item here. If at all possible use a six-sided box-in wrench or socket to reduce chance of rounding nuts/bolts. I have found that with the combination of Kroil, heat, and six-sided tool, most fasteners will give way.

Lastly, consider the Sears bolt-out tools (or whatever they are called) mentioned on this forum (at this writing, it is 4-5 items down).

Goes without saying -- adequate jack-stands and eye protection are a must. Good luck.

 

I just remove everything with an impact wrench and an air hammer. If the nuts are too rounded to break off with the impact, I cut them off with a cut off wheel.

If you are removing a rusty cat. cnvtr you are best leaving it on, making cuts in the part that slides over another, get the air hammer in there to help peel it away, and using a 5 pound Ford wrench to motivate it off. WD-40 can work great here to help you, especially if the metal looks red from rust.

When I put my exhaust together, I use high temp anti-seize over the whole connection if I am not using flanges.

 

Torch, tail pipe cutter, Candle trick on bolt's & studs I want/need to save. Those craftsman Bolt-Out tools would probably work great, otherwise I use six sided and an impact wrench.

If I feel like spending an extra $20 over what the parts cost me I take it to the muffler shop and let them get the rust in their eyes and all dirty

 

Bob, TW -- thanks for the tips. Raul, nice detail in your advice, which I appreciate -- all noted. Rebo, I guess I should expand my “about the only tool I don’t have” statement to include air tools. But thanks for the advice nonetheless.

Then there’s Eric, the voice of reason (party-pooper). I honestly hoped the “rust bath” wouldn’t be that bad (how naïve am I?), but now that I think of it, if I have to spend over $50 for additional tools, maybe I should just let a shop put it in. Labor can’t be more than an hour’s worth, right?

OK, plan of attack: A soon as the weather improves, (August at this pace), I’ll start the Kroil cycle -- crawl under truck, apply, crawl out, crack a beer. After a couple cycles (30?), I’ll see if I can bust any of ‘em loose. If not, I’ll crack a beer, sit my butt down and watch the grass grow for awhile. (Hey, does Kroil work on beer caps? What’s with these things lately? Either someone’s gluing them on, or I’m turning into a …) I think it’s the microbrew stuff I drink. I actually have found bottles that say “twist off” on the cap, but the bottle is a standard clamp-on. Someone has a sense of humor in the beer world, I guess. Am I getting off subject here?

Again, thanks to all of your for the advice!

 

The rust bath turns into a steam bath in august and the consumption of beer triples. The cost of cooling "equipment" exceeds the cost of the tools. The number of trips under the vehicle increases, and the amount of "rework" increases exponentially along with costs. Sometimes these beer enhanced exhaust jobs turn into 3" dual pipes thru the bed into home built "stacks" made from Walker glass packs welded end to end (without the benefit of a straightedge) with ricer fart tube outlets...

 

Yeesh! Imagine waking up the next day, looking out the window and seeing that in the driveway. (The way you describe it, it sounds like you already HAVE seen one on the road.) Sorta like waking up next to a “less than attractive” member of the opposite sex, ‘cept they ultimately (hopefully) leave. Damn beer…(someone say beer?).

You actually make a good point above, which I forgot to add myself: The fun factor. A lot of maintenance and repair work is both rewarding and enjoyable (within reason), but some stuff just plain ain’t, leaving you cursing halfway through the job. This might be one of those. We shall see…

“Ricer fart tube outlets”? You kill me, T-man. Too funny!

 

All,
Always wear your eye protection while at play. Rust has a tendency to stick to the eyes. Doctors have a rather brutal technique of removing it with a long needle. Worse yet, doctors have a bad habit of charging alot for their services.
You could turn a $200 job into a $350 job.
Consider it,
KingFisher