wheel well rust
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
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wheel well rust
I have a 97 f-350 7.3 that i love bought 1 yr and half ago. i had just noticed a tiny bubble on the pass side wheel well and a tiny rust on the lower left hand side of tailgate. i notice every truck in the area has what i call shark bites of rust taken out of the wheel wells. i live in Pa i HATE THE SALT
i notice the wheel well does not allow water to drain and gets cought in the middle. I was wounder has anyone thought of a solution for this so if i tear into the truck i wont be redoing quarters in 5 yrs
also with a small bubble should i fix when small or should i just wait caus i may be opening a can of worms??????
i notice the wheel well does not allow water to drain and gets cought in the middle. I was wounder has anyone thought of a solution for this so if i tear into the truck i wont be redoing quarters in 5 yrs
also with a small bubble should i fix when small or should i just wait caus i may be opening a can of worms??????
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
There 2 "solutions"
1. Dont drive in the salt
2. Take your inner wheel well out and modify it or do away with it all, together while putting on new bed sides. If doing away with the OEM one you would need to make braces of some varity to give sone strength.I would recommend gluing them in instead of welding also. Also actually prep and paint the inner bed skin.
here is a pic of some arches i modified w a 1" hole saw
1. Dont drive in the salt
2. Take your inner wheel well out and modify it or do away with it all, together while putting on new bed sides. If doing away with the OEM one you would need to make braces of some varity to give sone strength.I would recommend gluing them in instead of welding also. Also actually prep and paint the inner bed skin.
here is a pic of some arches i modified w a 1" hole saw
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,028
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From: long island
i have the same problem on my truck. i usually just flush out the wheel wells with some freshwater whenever washing the truck. i will probably wait for it to get really bad and then have a body shop repair it.
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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Are you talking about glueing the bedside metal together? Or glueing the inner fenders on?
I agree with taking the inner fender out and drilling a few holes in to allow for drainage. I also agree with prepping and painting the inside of the new metal.
I live in Michigan and I feel your pain. I hate how the salt makes our trucks rot! The state should have to pay to replace the rust. You know, because they can afford it and should do everything for us. LOL
I agree with taking the inner fender out and drilling a few holes in to allow for drainage. I also agree with prepping and painting the inside of the new metal.
I live in Michigan and I feel your pain. I hate how the salt makes our trucks rot! The state should have to pay to replace the rust. You know, because they can afford it and should do everything for us. LOL
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Both. Gluing is the best thing since sliced cheese. It does not generate heat like welding so it does not burn off paint. Which in turn does not give rust a place to start from day one
Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2010
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I would go ahead and fix it before u have to do major body work. something small u could fix yourself.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
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What type of glue? 
I was going to weld mine in but you make a good point about the glue. This is something I was going to attack in the spring once the salt is gone again.
For my truck is is both rear wheel wells and then two new fenders in the front.
My cab corners and rockers are in good shape for a Michigan truck, this was the worst part on my last Ford. The previous owner said it had running boards for a long time and thinks that is why the rockers are so solid.
I was going to weld mine in but you make a good point about the glue. This is something I was going to attack in the spring once the salt is gone again.
For my truck is is both rear wheel wells and then two new fenders in the front.
My cab corners and rockers are in good shape for a Michigan truck, this was the worst part on my last Ford. The previous owner said it had running boards for a long time and thinks that is why the rockers are so solid.
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Sandy Hook, CT
There's a company in Canada that does rustproofing...I'm sorry, but I don't remember their name. Kroil or something like that comes to mind. Anyway, they sell the rustproofing in spray cans & it it the most amazing stuff..it goes on waxey, and creeps into the rusted areas, treating them and arresting any future rust. They don't sell it here in the states but maybe some of out Canadian friends can elaborate? Maybe we can do a bulk-buy on this group?
Roger
Roger
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
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From: Gilbert, PA
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 234
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Looks like good stuff. I will have to find some and give it a try.
Since I just need to replace the wheel arches, I shouldn't need to do any welding at all.
Once it is on, all I will need is a little body filler to smooth it out and then it will look like a sexy truck again.
Since I just need to replace the wheel arches, I shouldn't need to do any welding at all.
Once it is on, all I will need is a little body filler to smooth it out and then it will look like a sexy truck again.
Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 21,437
Likes: 76
From: Gilbert, PA
Looks like good stuff. I will have to find some and give it a try.
Since I just need to replace the wheel arches, I shouldn't need to do any welding at all.
Once it is on, all I will need is a little body filler to smooth it out and then it will look like a sexy truck again.
Since I just need to replace the wheel arches, I shouldn't need to do any welding at all.
Once it is on, all I will need is a little body filler to smooth it out and then it will look like a sexy truck again.
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