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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

1966 f100 conversion

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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 01:37 PM
  #16  
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Well the brakes come with the axles and the steering box is a bolt on item. I will be getting the power steering pump on the motor I swap and will have to take the brake booster off no matter how I do it. Looking at the trucks assembled, what fordtrucksforever said is what I was seeing. A few mods to the front, crossmember at the transfer case and having some driveshafts made to fit possibly. Sure there will be some minor issues here and there, just asking incase I had missed something. The idea of using a later model chassis is a time saver for sure but I have all the parts already just sitting here. Heaven knows I don't need another truck!! lol... But cutting a frame is something you do to a totaled vehicle, preferably a chevy.
 
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Old Oct 23, 2010 | 01:52 PM
  #17  
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fordtrucksforever, nah buddy I think I will be keeping it. Unless you wish to offer me more than it is worth like your bronco deal!! haha... With all the negative opinions of the swap I was second guessing what I was anticipating. I am no Chip Foose but I think I can make it happen. The only other big project in waiting is a new floor pan. Ever done one of those? Surely if i just weld some angle iron pieces across the bottom to hold square, then plasma or metabo out the old pan... Should pop right in and just weld out?? I am a fabricator by trade just haven't done alot to vehicles. Especially vehicles that are mine!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2010 | 03:21 AM
  #18  
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I really hate to read peoples negative opinions on things a lot of them have never tried. My 65 stepside was originally a long wide bed. Then the wheelbase had been shortened by moving the springs forward and rear of frame chopped off. Back in the 70's it was popular to make a really short short bed. The bed was really not much longer than stepside fenders. I didnt have much to work with. I wanted a stepside, just not one a foot shorter than stock short wheel base. So I had to cut the rear half of a donor frame from a 54 stepside and butt it up to the front half of the 65. It was spliced in the middle of one of the crossmembers, so it has retained its integrity. But I am sure some of the guys reading this would think otherwise. The truck was originally equipped with A/C, power brakes, and automatic. I swapped the I-beams from a donor 77 to get disk brakes. I had a 351C for power, but changed it out for a 5.0 EFI and AOD. Floorpans are simple and easy enough to replace. HERE is some of the work done on the 78 Bronco floorpans. Basically the same as your 66 pans.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 02:43 AM
  #19  
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Dad gum, super shortbed!! Crazy short too, just behind the fenders is insane.. haha... Didn't sound like you had a choice but to add some frame! Sounds like it turned out really nice. It that the one you want the 4x4 frame for? I appreciate your vote of confidence on my project, it is something I have wanted to do for awhile and just trying to muster up the fortitude and time. I have alot of experience fabbing and welding but very limited on vehicles. I watched Chip Foose do some floor pans once and they cut the whole thing out and replaced it all. Then I saw that trucks show do some and they just did each side in strips. You just did the affected area on that bronco right? I noticed you had said asthetics weren't your priority in this project being it was for a 16yo. So would you do one of the other ways I mentioned on one you did want to look nice? Did the undercaoting cover the patch up fairly well, was it as noticable? After I get my truck converted and everything is in order I want to go back and fix it up real nice. Doubt it will ever see offroad use to be honest, just want a head turner and maybe take it to some car shows with my daughter. She will be helping me fix it up so it will be spanning 3 generations, may one day become hers!! Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions and giving me some advice.
 
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Old Oct 25, 2010 | 10:05 PM
  #20  
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Actually the truck bed was cut off front and behind the rear fenders. Those budget floorpan repairs on Bronco really worked out. From underneath, the only way you could tell any panels were replaced was the old paint color from donor parts. Even tho I didnt bother doing much cleanup in cab, that bedliner covered everything very well. And what better finish when all it was going to be used for was puddle jumping. I have done complete floorpans on Mustangs. Got two more in line for the same. Dynacorn makes an awesome one piece that covers wall to wall. Super nice and next to impossible to tell if they were ever repaired. Dont know whats available for the F-series. On early Broncos most of the panels are flat with reinforcing ribs, so these are very easy to duplicate and look like originals when replaced. HERE are some repairs done on one project. I dont have anything written up on all of the sheetmetal work on floors and inner panels yet. But it does give an idea of how a little bit of effort goes a long way to achieve nice results.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 12:08 PM
  #21  
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Before and after the fender, so it looked factory just short as heck.. That is pretty wild, haven't noticed one like that before and will have to keep my eye peeled for one!! Hmm, guess when I get into doing it I will just have to see what I think will be best. If I can splice in a couple pieces and it come out alright then I will just do that. And yeah I wouldn't have any problems at all with putting in some pieces on a puddle jumper!! I think LMC has one pieces for f-series truck but I will have to check again and make sure. Like I said though, I will probably splice in some pieces and go from there. Being I won't put much money in it, if it doesn't work out I can go with the one piece. Alot has to do with the condition of the rest of the pans, just play it by ear. It looked pretty good on the puddle jumper from what I could see. Oh man, I love early broncos. And I really like the notched frame for a steering box, that is terrible. You got it looking good though!! So por-15 paint? Where can you get that at? I was looking into what to do about my frame once I get it all fabbed up with the 4x4 stuff, powder coating is nice but that paint looks great. This project is getting more exciting to look forward too, just hope I can get the time and area to get it going now!!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 04:53 AM
  #22  
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I'm wanting to convert my '65 F-2502 wheel drive to a 4X4 and I ws planning on pickup up the entire 4X4 chassis to change over to the 2wheel drive frame
 
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Old Oct 29, 2010 | 11:27 PM
  #23  
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If you want to make your truck a 4x4, by all means do it. It sounds to me like you have the skills to do it and it seems like you are willing to do the research to make it work out right.
I am a tile setter by trade and I did my 63 F100 2wd in my garage at home. It turned out beyond my wildest expectations. It is in my garage here on the site.
Keep us informed and best of luck on your project. Do lots of research, take your time and it will be a headturner.

Kevin
 
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Old Oct 30, 2010 | 11:53 PM
  #24  
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Yeah stofferj, if I had a long wheel base I would do just that. I just have a whole donor truck with all matching parts on a long bed, my '66 is a shortbed so.....

And kstones63, that is a very nice truck! I am looking into alot of things before I start, thanks to some good info from folks on here it should be an adventure. I got a question for you... What is that in behind the tail light? Is that where you fill up the tank? Thinking of taking the tank out from behind the seat and dropping in the '77 tank but wasn't sure. Figured I would have to pop a fuel cell in the back... I will keep everyone informed and post some pictures when I get started.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2010 | 11:19 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by kodiak420
I got a question for you... What is that in behind the tail light? Is that where you fill up the tank?
Yes, that is the fill cap behind the taillight. I built the slider for the taillight so that I didn't have to put a fuel filler door in the side of the bed. The cap is a push thru design so I don't have to take the cap off to put in fuel. It is too tight an area to get your hand in to get the cap off. It can be done but not convenient.

Kevin
 
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 08:59 PM
  #26  
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That is pretty sweet man!! I was not going to cut a hole in the bed for a filler door either but that idea never crossed my mind... Might have to borrow that idea from you, promise I will not take credit though!! Yeah, it looked like a tight fit so I wasn't totally sure if it was infact the filler cap. I know with that tank back behind the seat really limits the size of sound system that fits so I was going to phase that out if possible. Did you do the body/sheetmetal work yourself?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 09:15 PM
  #27  
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The fuel cap came from Hagan's Street Rod Necessities. It works very well.
My neighbor is a retired body man. He helped me and guided me throughout all the body work. I never would have made it that far without his guidance.

Kevin
 
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Old Nov 2, 2010 | 10:58 PM
  #28  
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Ok, thanks for the info... Oh man what luck to have a guy who knows whats going on right next door!! I don't have much body work to do so maybe I can get a shop to do the few things I need done by a professional. Probably save me a few gray hairs that way!!
 
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