Hi All,
I'm new here so bear with me!!! I have a few questions about my 85 B2 that has a 2.8 that doesn't run to well right now! Last night I was looking at the vacuum lines on my B2 and I found that the black and white lines were blocked off? I also found the orange line broken off..... My questions are what do these lines go to and do they need to be hooked up? I looked for a place to hook up the orange line but found nothing? My next question is when I start my B2 in the morning, it doesn't want to idle, but after it warms up it will idle fine? How can I check to see if the choke is working? Thanks for any and all info... Larry

 

well you can go to autozone.com and look for a diagram of the vacum routes. the description you give doesn't really tell us much other than the trucks vacum lines need to be replaced or repaired. the vacum lines being in bad will cause it to run bad in the mornings.

 

I beleive the orange line goes to the MAP sensor. One end should get straight manifold vacuum and the other end goes to a large sensor mounted on the fenderwall. There are more than one black vacuum lines on the truck but im gonna guess that the black and white line you are talking about are part of the Smog system and it is ok that they are blocked off. One goes to a dump valve and one goes to another sensor next to the dump valve. Definately fix the orange one. I wouldnt worry too much about the others. Just make sure they dont leak.

 

Thanks for the info Matt_W and bumpin_BII. I will check out the orange line and get it fixed................................. springer

 

the only reall reason youd need to worry about the other ones is if one of them goes to the egr/barometric sonsor wich will make the truck run badly but only if vaccum is getting to the barometric sensor. you can pull the hose of of it and there wont be a noticible effect. a good way to determin if you have a vaccum leack is to hook a vaccum gauge to it and let it run. should have about 17 inches of vacum. when you cut the truck off let it set and listen for a hissing sound. if the vaccum is good then your engine shouldnt have any leaks in the manifold. if its a touch low it would be from anything like a vacum leck to the throttle plates letting the vacum out. now once you cut off the engine you should hear like this sick duck sound from the egr valve vacum regulator. if not then you have a leak more than likly. a good place to start if it is running rich is to test the egr valve. 20 inches of vacum apllied to the valve and should be held for atleast thirty seconds. if you are unsure of wether the valve is working you can unhook it fire up the truck and slowly pump in 5 inches of vacum. the truck should slow its idle or die. if not the egr is bad. the map sensor can be tested with a vacum pump and digital multimeter. the instrucktions for testing it and the o2 and a few other sensors can be found on autozone.com . to do these you will need a wiring diagram aswell. but some these could also causing the truck to run poorly. my best advice though is if you cant figure it out in a day or so get a code scanner and see what comes up. the codes are usually either right on the money close.

 

Update: I bought a code scanner to get the codes but no codes will show up. I hook it up like the book says and it does nothing.
I looked under the hood tonight and tried to track down the orange vac. line with no luck. The orange line comes off the first sol valve ( the vac. diagram has TAS on top of it) It's the top line off the valve. I can't tell from the diagram what is the top and what is the bottom. Thanks for all the info.... Larry

 

Ok on each of the solinoids there should be two vacuum lines at least. What is the color of the other line comming from the TAS. Im gonna guess that the Thermactor air diverter solenoid because thats the onlyone i see with a T A and S in its name. Or better yet the colors of some of the wires comming from that solinoid. As for the computer something has to be wrong. If there are no codes and you hook it up correctly it will flash a code eleven that means everything is working correctly. Which connector did you try hooking it up to. My truck has one in the engine compartment and one near the glove compartment in the cab.

 

Thanks for the info....O.K. The color of the lines are: Top vacuum line-Orange Bottom vacuum line- White
The orange line is broken off right above the thermostat housing.
Wires coming into sol. valve are blue with yellow dashes and a red wire. The connector I pluged the code reader in was a red plastic tringle shaped piece and the book said I also had to plug the single wire that was taped together with the red plastic connector.
The red plastic connector has 2-gray wires with white dashes
1-black wire with a gray line on it
1-brown wire with a red line on it
The single wire is light brown with red dots on it.
Should my Bronco have another connector to plug in a code reader by the glove compartment ? If it should, how would I get to it? Remove the glove compartment?
It's an 85. When I plug in the code reader and turn it on the light will come on but it doesn't beep or the light will not flash. The book said it might take up to 1 minute for it to start reading the codes. I let it go for 3 minutes and nothing happened. The book also said that the enging might make some clicking sounds and it doesn't. Is there a way to test the computer to see if it's working right? Thanks for helping Larry

 

From what i can tell thats the cansiter purge solinoid. My wiring diagrams show it having a grey with yellow hash wire and the thermactor air diverter solenoid has a white with black stripe wire. Acording to my vacuum diagrams that orange line is chain linked too all of the solenoids on the fenderwall and then to manifold vacuum. The white vacuum line goes to an air bypass valve. This is part of the emission system so as long as there is not vacuum leaking from it you should be alright. I would plug that orange line at the minimum before doing anything else.
Sounds like you hooked up the scan tool correctly. Did you try it with the key in the on position? or the engine running or was everything off?

 

O.K. I will plug the orange line and see if it makes a difference. As for the code reader, I tried it with the key on, engine Off
I tried it with the key on engine running and nothing happened.
I tested the code reader by using a jumper wire to see if it would beep and it did. Thanks for all the info you have given me. I will keep trying, I'm not going to let this thing whip me!!!!!
Thanks Larry

 

well they are more knowledgeble on the vacum lines than i am but on your connector for the code reader you should have a red and tan connector. you should get a red light if the connector is hooked up right. if you dont then take the tan connector off and run a jumper from the empty prong to bare metal. if you get a light then you had it right and had a wire issue. a code 11 and 111 are sys pass. but there will more than likly be codes stored in the continuis mem. if you get a 15 ford claims comp is bad. but a learned a 15 goes away after the comp relerns how to control the engine. ok so you have the codes (hopefully this works) and you can see wahts wrong. i checked on my 86 2.9 b2 and didnt see any orange lines but it looks like myne have all been replaced so im gonna break out the diagrams on myne and check them. ill look around for diags of yours aswell.

 

This is kinda strange. I am getting all of my info from the Ford released 1985 vacuum and electrical manual for the ranger and Bronco II so i gotta assume its pretty accurate. It seems to me like someone played around with your emmission control system. One thing is for sure though. Vacuum leak=bad. definately plug all the leaking lines. The 2nd OBD connector i found on my truck was hanging inside the glovebox when i opened it. Im not sure if this is the same one but if you have one its worth a try.

 

Thanks Matt_W and bumpin_BII,
I've pluged the orange vac line and nothing happened so I not sure if thats a good thing or not!!!!!!!!! I went and tried to use the code reader again. I get the same thing everytime, I plug it in and the red light comes on, I turn the key on and I flip both switches and nothing happens. I went to the readers web site and I found this in there faq section:

When I turn the ignition key to the on position and turn the code reader from "Hold" to "Test" the led stays solid and no codes are given. What do I need to do?
A: On some vehicles we have found a situation where the ground wire that comes up through the diagnostic block connector has too high a resistance to put the vehicle into diagnostic mode. Please follow these steps to overcome this situation:

ALWAYS USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING ON YOUR VEHICLE!

EEC IV Alternate Connection:

Have the ignition key turned off and the code reader set to the hold position. We have two connectors that we use coming from the vehicles wiring harness. We have the big block connector and the single pigtail. Hook the block connector to the code reader. At this point the LED will light up and the code reader will tone if the audio is on. This is normal. Take the single pigtail and do not hook it to the code reader. Instead, us a jumper wire to manually jump the single pigtail to the NEGATIVE battery terminal. Don’t just ground it to the chassis or the block; we might have the same problem there. On the code reader there is a single pin where the pigtail would normally hook. Leave this pin open and do not hook anything to it. Now turn the ignition switch to the on position and put the code reader on test and retrieve the codes normally.

I tried this and nothing happened!!! Could the reader be bad? I can jump a wire across the 2 termials and the reader will beep......
Thanks for all the info you folks have given me!!!!! Larry

 

this dont really make sense. you should be getting some codes back. take a multimeter and test it for current against the pos bat post. if you get none theres the prob.