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Oh, you have a 99. Thats not dry start from the wrong filter, I bet thats piston slap. I get a little bit of that too on my older V10. The 01 does not do it at all though.
I don't think I can find 5-20 at walmart but I think I'll try it at my next oil change. Kind of a shame I have to buy two big jugs of motor oil to make it to the next 5k mile oil change interval.
Oh, you have a 99. Thats not dry start from the wrong filter, I bet thats piston slap. I get a little bit of that too on my older V10. The 01 does not do it at all though.
My Engine is actually a 97. One of the very first offered in the RV Cut-a-way. I can get valve train noises if I use other filters but the Motorcraft 820s is the best at keeping that to a min.
What I have is definitely at Rod Speed so it 's piston knock or rattle. I do have a Ford Service Writer in my Jeep club and he says it's always the two rear cylinders in high mileage V-10's. He says a leak down won't show me much and just recommended an engine change but declined any of the work. He works for yet another Ford dealer that refuses motor homes. Not set up for it and the bays are to tight.
Keep in mind I ALWAYS run this rig pulling something and CA is not all flat either. Those 59k miles are not easy miles but still....
Here is what I am talking about. If I am jacking the thread...my apologies.
Before I even think of changing the engine the pinging needs to be fixed. Looking for a Guru at this point.
If you were getting a excessive spark knock that could certainly have caused some internal damage. Best bet may be a reman engine or a slightly used engine from a wreck. The PI 2V V10 was used in the E-series up to at least 2010. You should have an NPI 2V in your MH currently and upgrading to a PI 2V would give you a bit more power and torque.
If you change the engine contact Mike at Five Star for tuning. He is all to familier with spark knock issues, mainly do to the junk fuel across the country.
I replyed to this at noon, but the post is gone.
Let me try agian.
If its pinging that bad I would check it for codes and data log it to see if there is a sensor sending bad info to the PCM.
This problem needs to be fixed before the new engine, or you could destroy it too.
The 2000+ PI 2v long block swap and a 5 star tune are a great idea and thats what I would do if I had to change one of the older early V10s.
I think the problem needs to be found before tuning though.
I used valovine oil for years in my 6.8 dont ask me why,seems like everytime I checked the oil it was on the add mark.The last oil change I used castol GTX with motorcraft filter,checked the oil at 2500 miles never used a drop. Engine is quieter. I dont know why I was stuck on valvoline? Bullheaded I guess.
All I use is Motorcraft 5w20 with either a Motorcraft of Wix filter.
I use less than a quart between changes.
The oil meets Fords spec and is only $12 for 5 quarts.
Both the filters have the drain back valve which is very important, many brands don't have one.
Why was it pinging in the first place?
Sounds like it had detonation so bad it broke the rings.
FYI motorcraft filters are made by Wix along with Napa and a few other brands.
I used valovine oil for years in my 6.8 dont ask me why,seems like everytime I checked the oil it was on the add mark.The last oil change I used castol GTX with motorcraft filter,checked the oil at 2500 miles never used a drop. Engine is quieter. I dont know why I was stuck on valvoline? Bullheaded I guess.
BigBear, what weight castrol are you running now? I've noticed no difference in changing weights or types (but not yet brands) in consumption. But you are reporting a large noticeable difference for yourself so it is worth my while to investigate on my own with my truck, especially since we're both 99s. I'm early 99 NPI V10 though. I've noticed an approximately 1mpg difference by going from 5w30 to 10w30.
Originally Posted by DavidB
I have been using Castrol GTX and Motorcraft filters in my 6.8 since new. It now has 115,000 miles on it and zero problems with no oil consumption.
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