Another Hutch Mod Question
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Another Hutch Mod Question
I plan on doing the "Hutch Mod" this weekend and just have a few questions before I get started. First I have read the following links;
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1032304239034160182pPFucR
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
I would imagine there are other variations as well. I have gathered the supplies listed on Guzzles link and am wondering about how long this mod typically takes? What are some other options on the screens i.e. can they be modified to work with the mod without having to remove them? Does the foot need to be extended? I noticed that Hutch did not extend his pickup foot. Also is the vent hose a vibra lock fitting and will it require a special tool? Just trying to wrap my head around everything before I start this mod so my truck is'nt down too long. Any tips from experience would be appreciated. I am still waiting on a new fuel pressure guage from Jegs before I install my Deisel O Rings Billet FPR housing so thought I would do this mod in the meantime. Thanks in advance Dan
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1032304239034160182pPFucR
Welcome to guzzle's In-tank Hutch Mod Web Page
I would imagine there are other variations as well. I have gathered the supplies listed on Guzzles link and am wondering about how long this mod typically takes? What are some other options on the screens i.e. can they be modified to work with the mod without having to remove them? Does the foot need to be extended? I noticed that Hutch did not extend his pickup foot. Also is the vent hose a vibra lock fitting and will it require a special tool? Just trying to wrap my head around everything before I start this mod so my truck is'nt down too long. Any tips from experience would be appreciated. I am still waiting on a new fuel pressure guage from Jegs before I install my Deisel O Rings Billet FPR housing so thought I would do this mod in the meantime. Thanks in advance Dan
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Joined: May 2010
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From: Weldona, CO
Dan, I actually followed Hutch's instructions to a T.
The screens need to be removed because that is a terrible place to have any kind of filtering to occur. The first shot of bad fuel that you pickup from anywhere will clog you up and it's a lot easier to change out an external filter than dropping the tank.
When you remove the screens, you must extend the pickup foot to the bottom of the tank, that is the reason for the 4" of 3/8" tubing and measuring the over all length of your pickup assembly before you begin tearing it down. Hitch did extend his foot.
If you have your tank level down to "not much", all of your tools handy and all the parts lined up, it should not take more than 3 or 4 hours to complete. The quick release line tools that you can get at any auto parts store, even the plastic ones will work. A couple of the connectors have a blue "holding" clip. If you remove it, the hose will come off without using a tool i.e. the fuel pump inlet.
The screens need to be removed because that is a terrible place to have any kind of filtering to occur. The first shot of bad fuel that you pickup from anywhere will clog you up and it's a lot easier to change out an external filter than dropping the tank.
When you remove the screens, you must extend the pickup foot to the bottom of the tank, that is the reason for the 4" of 3/8" tubing and measuring the over all length of your pickup assembly before you begin tearing it down. Hitch did extend his foot.
If you have your tank level down to "not much", all of your tools handy and all the parts lined up, it should not take more than 3 or 4 hours to complete. The quick release line tools that you can get at any auto parts store, even the plastic ones will work. A couple of the connectors have a blue "holding" clip. If you remove it, the hose will come off without using a tool i.e. the fuel pump inlet.
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Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzleguzzle's Mods & Maintenance website
Specializing in Viton® o-rings and leak repair kits for the 7.3L and 6.0L diesels
(970) 368-4455 aka guzzle
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,500
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From: South Carolina
Allow several hours. A buddy helping makes it quicker. (I worked slowly to eliminate mistakes.)
The foot can be eliminated, especially if it is damaged anyway. ( Mine was damaged and is eliminated.)
Screens. Get rid of them. That is the #1 objective of this ( I added an inline fram G3 see-through filter outside the tank for easy monitoring and replacement.)
Try to get the 3/8 infeed line within 1/4 inch of bottom of tank.
Tool for lines. A fuel injection line disconnect for 5/16-return and 3/8-infeed available at any auto parts store for $10 to $15 .
A floor jack and three foot board make this much easier.
The foot can be eliminated, especially if it is damaged anyway. ( Mine was damaged and is eliminated.)
Screens. Get rid of them. That is the #1 objective of this ( I added an inline fram G3 see-through filter outside the tank for easy monitoring and replacement.)
Try to get the 3/8 infeed line within 1/4 inch of bottom of tank.
Tool for lines. A fuel injection line disconnect for 5/16-return and 3/8-infeed available at any auto parts store for $10 to $15 .
A floor jack and three foot board make this much easier.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Thanks David and Bob. So I will hit Auto Zone before I start and pick up a "Fuel Filter/Line Removal tool" and a 3/8" inline clear plastic fuel filter. Any particular P/N's I should ask for or will the parts be easily identifiable at AZ?
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
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Just did my mod, last weekend. Think the hardest part, was get'n the darn tank back up in there, especially the front part, the bracket likes to get hung up on the driveshaft(2wd). Anyway, not sure on style of yuor truck, but mine being an x-cab 2wd, the 4" 3/8 piece to eliminate the filter can, inside the tank, actually ended up being 3/4in to long. My entire sending unit, measured, if memory serves right, 13-3/4 inches....Drop'n tank, and gut'n the sending unit, didnt take long at all, but doing the "harpoon" mod, forgettaboutit, endedd up using a razor blade, saw'n my way thru....good luck
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 483
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From: Washington
Deffinitly make sure your tank is very low. These things are huge, I ran mine almost out, plus I did it by myself so it was much easier to have it as light as possible.
To lower the tank I found that pull straps worked very well. One on each end and slung under the tank so you can just hit the little "buttons" and the straps will slowly let the tank down as you go and will alow you to access the stuff on the top of the tank and move all around it and bump it with no fear of the tank falling off a floor jack.
To lower the tank I found that pull straps worked very well. One on each end and slung under the tank so you can just hit the little "buttons" and the straps will slowly let the tank down as you go and will alow you to access the stuff on the top of the tank and move all around it and bump it with no fear of the tank falling off a floor jack.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Couple more great tips thanks. Timmy did you have the ratchet cutter tool available? With that tool it was still a pain in the butt? I have been driving mine out of fuel, I think I only have five gallons left to siphon out.
Thanks for the input so far, I'll post pics this weekend and share how my mod goes.
Thanks for the input so far, I'll post pics this weekend and share how my mod goes.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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Yo...no ratchet cutter tool, but i did have the "brakeline" tools, to remove the barb fittings. With the tank straps unbolted(only on one side of each strap), you allow the weight of the tank to drop enough to fish yuor hand to "pop" the fuel lines off. From there, besides, undoing the 2-hose clamps, off the gas filler tubes, the tank just falls out/down.
Doing the "harpoon", took a few minutes to "start" a cut thru that tube, then i just bent it, til it broke off. Took a peak inside tank(mirror), and it broke clean.
With the inline filter, i gotta hold of "fleetfilter.com" and ordered a base from them along with the filter..water/fuel seperator, all together parts were 60buks.....fuel line, comp. unions, base/filter...etc.
And one other thing, since it looked like a nightmare, i left the "oem" hard fuel line, still intact to inside of frame, i cut off the soft lines from it, to the tank and pump....i'm lazy.
Doing the "harpoon", took a few minutes to "start" a cut thru that tube, then i just bent it, til it broke off. Took a peak inside tank(mirror), and it broke clean.
With the inline filter, i gotta hold of "fleetfilter.com" and ordered a base from them along with the filter..water/fuel seperator, all together parts were 60buks.....fuel line, comp. unions, base/filter...etc.
And one other thing, since it looked like a nightmare, i left the "oem" hard fuel line, still intact to inside of frame, i cut off the soft lines from it, to the tank and pump....i'm lazy.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Thats funny.....me too! So I am going the same route. I wish I would've ordered T-Clamps from Clay @ RRDP for this. I have 10ft of 30R9 fuel injection hose, I hope this is a good enough rating to maintain at least a 100 P.S.I.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 822
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From: Leander Texas
The ratchet cutter works great, snips them off clean about 1/2" from the tank. Like already stated, a floor jack and a helper is real nice. After fighting it a couple times, I've been sticking a 3/8 extension into the end of your new fuel line and letting it stretch just a fuzz. Makes getting it past the ridge for the quick connect alot easier. The soaking the line in hot water trick hasn't worked for me. I've been using ITP/Sinisters kits so maybe it's just the particular fuel line they use, I don't know.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
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LOL....since i had no more use for it, i said F it, i'll leave it there.
Had read somewhere, that the 3/8 fitting on sending unit, that if you dont drill out the opening, it causes "turbulance", with that, has foaming/air in the fuel as well, not sure how much "water" that statement holds, but, since i was there, i drilled it out. And for T-clamps, cant remember if there was a place for them, on this mod, but i got me 4-s.s. 3/8 clamps with the 10ft of 30r9 fuel line (Autozone 3.50ft), and went at it, and for the extended fuel return line, inside tank, i used a 5in piece of 5/16 with the comp. union, and up til now, so far so good.
Had read somewhere, that the 3/8 fitting on sending unit, that if you dont drill out the opening, it causes "turbulance", with that, has foaming/air in the fuel as well, not sure how much "water" that statement holds, but, since i was there, i drilled it out. And for T-clamps, cant remember if there was a place for them, on this mod, but i got me 4-s.s. 3/8 clamps with the 10ft of 30r9 fuel line (Autozone 3.50ft), and went at it, and for the extended fuel return line, inside tank, i used a 5in piece of 5/16 with the comp. union, and up til now, so far so good.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,609
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From: Arizona
The large threaded ring can be a challenge to get started. I let mine heat up in the sun, and after several failed attempts to start it I was finally sucessful by applying a lot of downward pressure as I started it and it went right on.
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Posting Guru
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From: Las Vegas, NV
This is what I meant when I said Clay's T Clamps, just wish my screens did'nt clog before the kit was availble.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 14
From: South Carolina
The tool should be easily identified. It is a 4 in 1 tool. I forget the other two sizes it fits.
A number of us here used steel brake lines and compression fittings for the in tank portion of this mod. No special tools for bending the return line. Just be careful while forming it so as not to kink it.
I did my mod for under $50.
For the harpoon, i used a saw blade and sand paper to clean up the edges.
I am changing my inline filter monthly to get whatever debri i might have left in the tank even though i did wipe it out good. I will change it less as time goes by.
I had no trouble with the large nut on top of the tank.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 7,793
Likes: 50
same here, no trouble with the locking ring. Here's what i used for the filter set-up....
Wix 24309 & Napa 4309 Base: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
Wix 33123 & Napa 3123 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
Worked perfect, and there's 2-holes for the 5/16 or 3/8 bolts/nuts to mount to, to hold a fabbed metal bracket....
Wix 24309 & Napa 4309 Base: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
Wix 33123 & Napa 3123 Fuel Filter: FleetFilter Secure Online Store
Worked perfect, and there's 2-holes for the 5/16 or 3/8 bolts/nuts to mount to, to hold a fabbed metal bracket....