new dually owner
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new dually owner
Just found this site and have been reading and learning from you all. Thanks!! I have a 93 7.3 with the e40d I THINK. It shifts hard from 1st to 2nd to 3rd but the O/D shifts normal. Had fluid and filter changed and no differance. There is no slippage and down shift is smooth. Found out that there is no modulater valve either. I als would like to know where to get a good push guard/grill guard for my truck as well. Any help please??
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New User
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I bought it with 169K miles on it. A farmer owned it and it is a one owner. It is very clean and the underneath loolks still new. Cab mounts, spring hager's ect... This is my first diesel and it's a new world. The tranny seems strong as there is no slippage as I said, but she will snap your head back if I don't use the peddle to shift. RPM'S at about 1875 to shift.
Postmaster
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1875 rpms under medium or light throttle? If I'm easy on mine I can get her to upshift as early as 1600 rpms, but if I step on the throttle a bit more serious and she'll go to about 1900-2000 rpms. She does shift very firm, but not as bad as to be concerned about my neck...
What I'd look into with your truck is TPS voltage - if that's jacked up high the trans will shift late and shift hard. Lemme see if I can find you the instructions for that, I know I personally have posted them several times already on here...
What I'd look into with your truck is TPS voltage - if that's jacked up high the trans will shift late and shift hard. Lemme see if I can find you the instructions for that, I know I personally have posted them several times already on here...
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Mi'kma'ki
iv read often that a common shifting problem is the MLPS sensor on the E40d too.
soft shifts/hard shifts etc.
though im not sure why,as that just appears to be the natural safety switch?
edit.
here's a good one:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-mlps.html
"Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements."
whatch think lcam?
been thinking of replacing mine because it seems sometimes i have softer shifts than other times under the same conditions.very strange.
soft shifts/hard shifts etc.
though im not sure why,as that just appears to be the natural safety switch?
edit.
here's a good one:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-mlps.html
ironpants,
Regarding MLPS:
Wrong Gear Starts
Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position).
Note
MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case.
MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic bushing. Tighten bolts.
To check MLPS
1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to chart below.
Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms
Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original location.
Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V (dielectric tune-up grease). You can get it at most auto parts stores.
Not saying your MLPS is bad but I saved $40 going to Napa instead of a dealership when I replaced mine.
Regarding Code 62:
Before or after overhaul code 62/628 (TCC slippage).
Code 62/628 will set when the computer calls for LU but does not see
1. Change in rpm (no LU at all- electrical or mechanical problem).
2. Enough of a change in rpm (converter clutch or forward, intermediate, direct or OD clutches slipping). Usually converter clutch then directs.
Cause and correction
Mechanical
Listed by most common
1. Warped or cracked LU piston. This is the most common and number one reason for code 62/628. Ford completely redesigned the piston making it much stronger. LUK manufactures the new piston for Ford and when you buy a rebuilt torque converter always specify that you want it with the updated piston. The rebuilt converter costs more money because of the updated piston but it eliminates the most common cause of code 62/628.
2. Slipping direct clutch (especially common in diesels) Make sure your using E4OD frictions and not C6. All diesels should use 4 frictions in direct. Use only steel sealing rings on center support to prevent high clutch circuit leaks.
3. Pump- A worn pump with excessive side gear clearance will produce low pump pressure, which can be enough to cause the converter clutch to not hold or slip setting code 62/628. Make sure the pump you're using is perfect. If not and you have to replace it Ford has a updated pump assembly with larger gears for increased volume part # F5TZ-7A103-A.
4. Make sure converter clutch shift and apply valves in the stator are not sticking or that the springs are not mixed up.
Electrical
Listed by most common
1.RPM sensor
Diesel only- very common Ford part # E5TZ-17B384-A. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit failure). A bad RPM sensor can cause LU and/ or the shifls to go in and out (cycle back and forth).
Check RPM sensor with DVOM set to on AC voltage. RPM sensor is
located below the engine oil filler neck in the housing.
Here's how to check it
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC/ 0 to 40-volt scale..
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
2. VSS
May or may not set code 29/452 (VSS speed sensor signal too low).
Note
Check speed sensor with DVOM on AC scale. VSS is located in transmission tail housing or differential.
Here's how to check it:
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC voltage / 0 to 40 volt scale.
4. Raise vehicle so rear wheels are off ground.
5. Start vehicle, put in "D" and make transmission upshift. Watch meter.
6. You must see an increase in AC voltage or VSS is bad
3. Bad LU solenoid in solenoid block.
4. Bad TOT sensor (transmission oil temperature) in solenoid block
5. Open or shorted wire between LU solenoid and controller.
6. Poor connection at LU solenoid.
Also, is the ground on the FIPL at or lower than 1/10th of a volt (.100 volts on a meter? If not, you need to get it there as it is critical. The MLPS ground and TOT ground are all on the same circuit going back to the PCM. If you haven't got the time to trace out the ground wires, simply splice into the ground wire of the FIPL and run the other end to the ground of the passenger side battery. This will clear up the crap signals going to the computer by the FIPL, TOT, MLPS (direct experience). R.A.
R.A.
Regarding MLPS:
Wrong Gear Starts
Bad or mis-adjusted MLPS
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements. May or may not set code 67/634 (MLPS out of position).
Note
MLPS is located on driver's side of transmission case.
MLPS adjustment
Place manual lever in Neutral. Line up I.D mark on sensor with l.D. mark on plastic bushing. Tighten bolts.
To check MLPS
1. Hook red lead of DVOM to pin # 199 (MLP sensor signal).
2. Hook black lead of meter to pin 359 (sensor signal return).
3. Set meter to ohms.
4. Move manual lever through the different positions and compare DVOM reading to chart below.
Manuel lever position
Meter should read:
P 3769 to 4608 ohms
R 1304 to 1593 ohms
N 660 to 807 ohms
D .... 361 to 442 ohms
2 190 to 232 ohms
I 80 to 95 ohms
Important
If the MLPS needs replacement, use Ford part # E5TZ-7A247-A. This kit includes a new style harness connector. You must replace the connector to use the new MLPS. By sliding the old wire separator from the original connector up the harness you can leave it in place as you install the new connector. This helps to keep the wires in their original location.
Note
Make sure you clean the harness connector with brake clean and apply some dielectric grease to the pins. This will ensure a good connection. Use Permatex part # 67V (dielectric tune-up grease). You can get it at most auto parts stores.
Not saying your MLPS is bad but I saved $40 going to Napa instead of a dealership when I replaced mine.
Regarding Code 62:
Before or after overhaul code 62/628 (TCC slippage).
Code 62/628 will set when the computer calls for LU but does not see
1. Change in rpm (no LU at all- electrical or mechanical problem).
2. Enough of a change in rpm (converter clutch or forward, intermediate, direct or OD clutches slipping). Usually converter clutch then directs.
Cause and correction
Mechanical
Listed by most common
1. Warped or cracked LU piston. This is the most common and number one reason for code 62/628. Ford completely redesigned the piston making it much stronger. LUK manufactures the new piston for Ford and when you buy a rebuilt torque converter always specify that you want it with the updated piston. The rebuilt converter costs more money because of the updated piston but it eliminates the most common cause of code 62/628.
2. Slipping direct clutch (especially common in diesels) Make sure your using E4OD frictions and not C6. All diesels should use 4 frictions in direct. Use only steel sealing rings on center support to prevent high clutch circuit leaks.
3. Pump- A worn pump with excessive side gear clearance will produce low pump pressure, which can be enough to cause the converter clutch to not hold or slip setting code 62/628. Make sure the pump you're using is perfect. If not and you have to replace it Ford has a updated pump assembly with larger gears for increased volume part # F5TZ-7A103-A.
4. Make sure converter clutch shift and apply valves in the stator are not sticking or that the springs are not mixed up.
Electrical
Listed by most common
1.RPM sensor
Diesel only- very common Ford part # E5TZ-17B384-A. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit failure). A bad RPM sensor can cause LU and/ or the shifls to go in and out (cycle back and forth).
Check RPM sensor with DVOM set to on AC voltage. RPM sensor is
located below the engine oil filler neck in the housing.
Here's how to check it
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC/ 0 to 40-volt scale..
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
2. VSS
May or may not set code 29/452 (VSS speed sensor signal too low).
Note
Check speed sensor with DVOM on AC scale. VSS is located in transmission tail housing or differential.
Here's how to check it:
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC voltage / 0 to 40 volt scale.
4. Raise vehicle so rear wheels are off ground.
5. Start vehicle, put in "D" and make transmission upshift. Watch meter.
6. You must see an increase in AC voltage or VSS is bad
3. Bad LU solenoid in solenoid block.
4. Bad TOT sensor (transmission oil temperature) in solenoid block
5. Open or shorted wire between LU solenoid and controller.
6. Poor connection at LU solenoid.
Also, is the ground on the FIPL at or lower than 1/10th of a volt (.100 volts on a meter? If not, you need to get it there as it is critical. The MLPS ground and TOT ground are all on the same circuit going back to the PCM. If you haven't got the time to trace out the ground wires, simply splice into the ground wire of the FIPL and run the other end to the ground of the passenger side battery. This will clear up the crap signals going to the computer by the FIPL, TOT, MLPS (direct experience). R.A.
R.A.
Can cause wrong gear starts, no upshift, falls out of gear, and high line pressure = harsh upshift and engagements."
whatch think lcam?
been thinking of replacing mine because it seems sometimes i have softer shifts than other times under the same conditions.very strange.
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Postmaster
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Westin usually makes pretty decent guards, look into their stuff (if they're still in business). Be advised however that the factory bumper is quite flimsy so you may wanna think about a complete aftermarket bumper - you know, those big ones that look kinda edgy and often have lights and winches in them... Ranch Hand and Iron Bull come to mind right now, there are many others that are good as well. Or you can build your own.
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