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I tried starting the Bronc and there was power to everything but the ignition. Everything seemed fine when turning it to to run, power came on etc, but when I turned it more I got nothing. Not even an attempt to turn over.
I thought it might be the ignition cylinder, but I got it started with a jump. I drove an hour and a half on it, so it's not the alternator I don't think. But when I turned it off it wouldn't start up again. Not even turn over once. I just recently replaced the turn signal switch which has the ignition wire on it, but I checked the wires and made sure they were plugged in good at the connector and everything seemed fine. I also tested out the old ignition lock cylinder that would work without the key(thus the reason I changed it), and still got nothing when trying to start it.
I also redid the connection to the battery thinking something was wrong there because it started when putting more power to it(ie: jumping it), but that didn't do anything. I may replace the whole ground wire going to the battery to make sure, but I'm lost as to what is happening. I'm was thinking the starter.... but that deosn't seem right b/c it runs when jumped.... 2 times now.. Any ideas??
The wire on the turn signal that goes to the lock cylinder is only the key-in chime circuit - it has nothing to do with cranking or running. That all goes thru the ignition switch which is buried under the dash mounted to the R side of the steering column above the pedals.
Your problem sounds like a bad starter relay (the one on the R inner fender by the battery). Make sure the LB/R wire is firmly attached to the small post, and that it gets 12V when the key is turned to crank. If it does, replace the relay - it's only about $12 at NAPA. Be sure to get the style with ALL the terminals pointing the same direction, and tighten the big terminals firmly but carefully so the plastic doesn't crack.
Ok, I'll check that. Wouldn't that cause it not to start at all? It starts when I jump it...?
Now that you mention it, when I put the key in the lock cylinder with the door open, it chimes at me like the lights are on. I don't remember it doing that before, but I could have just not noticed it.
Now I'm not getting anything when I turn the key. It was having to go further and further to even get it to the "run" position, and now it doesn't get there. It does chime when I put the key in though.
Power still works, lights, cd eject, and checked the battery for 12V.
So how does that ignition lock cylinder work?? And could it be something in the steering wheel that the lock cylinder turns?
How can I check the relay when it's plugged in? I'm always afraid I'm going to ruin things that have power by unplugging them without unplugging the battery first.
After doing some research I'm thinking its the ignition actuator rod or that mechanism in there. My ignition lock cylinder has never sprung back very good, even the new one, and now nothing is happening. So I have to tear down the steering column today??
I took off the shroud, and the ignition rod is moving and after wiggling it a bit i can get the power to come on again when turning to run, but it won't start and now I can't get it out of park! I was thinking about just jumping it today, but it won't do me any good if I can't get it out of park.
Anyone got ideas? I'm thinking i need to tear the steering column down now and replace that mechanism inside. I have tilt and heard that it's a major pain b/c of the bolts up and under the tilt. I've seen these and can't find any post on what tool to use to get it off. Any help would be appreciated.
When you say you jumped it, do you mean at the relay (solenoid) or at the battery? I've had this problem before, but it was a bad battery. You turn the key on, you have what appears to be good power, lights are bright, etc. but no crank, and a jump will start it. And it will run off the alternator. One thing that usually happens is a buzz or click from the starter relay, but not always.
I would put a charger on your battery for a little while, then load test it. If you don't have a load tester, most parts stores will test it for you. Testing a battery for voltage is useless. A dead battery can put out 12-14 volts when charged up but not have any cranking amps left. It doesn't take a lot of current to run lights but it takes a lot of amps to crank a starter.
I found the problem. It was a broken lower actuator in the steering column. After wiggling the key around I couldn't even get it out of Park and that let me know what the problem was. It's only going to cost $10, but it was a pain figuring out what was wrong. Thanks.
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