Truck in my signature.

Today I noticed a knocking coming from the engine between 1800 and 2200 rpm, in Park. Below 1800 and above 2200, the knocking stops. Driving the truck around (load condition) in that rpm range, no knock. Crawled under the truck while the brother in law ran the go-pedal, and it is coming from the bellhousing area. Unable to locate the noise with the stethoscope.

I applied pressure to the inspection plate with a hammer handle to try to eliminate that as a possibility. Would have removed it completely, but the engine was hot and didn't feel like trying to work around the exhaust crossover and risk burning myself.

Next step is to remove the cover and take a look inside the bellhousing. Anything specific I should focus on first? I'm just thinking general inspection of torque converter bolts, flexplate run-out/warpage, and attempt to locate cracks in the flexplate, if possible.

 

Sounds like torque converter bolts (especially as it doesn't happen under load).

It could also be the flexplate is cracking around the crank bolts, which happens on these things a bit more than I like to hear about. But that would probably make MORE noise under load.

 

art is most likly correct! pull that inspection plate off ,if it's still there check the flex plate to convertor bolts for proper torqe, if tight head for the nearest trans shop. chances are very high that the flex plate has gone bad.

 

I have same noise in 2010 5.4 f350 torqueshift 4x4 super crew, cant figure it out. I took off inspection plate, nothing out of the ordinary. Flywheel looks like it is warped as it spins inside the bell housing, could be an optical illusion... Engine and tranny run smooth though. Any thoughts.

 

If the flex plate is bad, does that indicate that my transmission has something wrong with it as well? Or does it just need a flex plate? Just curious because I can do the flex plate myself.


Something I forgot to mention, and may not have anything to do with it. My coast clutch is not working. From what I have researched here, because it won't engage even when manually downshifting indicates that it is a mechanical problem. Is this something that needs immediate attention, or is it something where the transmission will otherwise function normally for quite a while?

 

The torque converter bolts were tight, flexplate seems to run true. Can't see up to the area around the hub.

So, I whipped out the stethoscope again. I felt like an idiot. Last time I used it, I didn't look it over good, and the darn thing had a hole in the tube. I should have known something was up when I couldn't hear anything. I bought a new one.

Probing around again under the hood with the engine running at 1800 rpm, it sounds like a "tink" coming from the driver's side only, on the side of the block. Couldn't hear it on the valve cover, timing chain cover, head or oil pan. Passenger side sounded good. It sounded like it was definitely metal-on-metal, maybe mid-level pitch. Definitely not a lower pitch like a rod bearing.

Driving home from work earlier in the evening, I held it in 1st gear, and could hear the knock or "tink" starting at 1800 on up to 3000, but above that I think other noise like the engine fan drowned it out. Holding 2nd gear, same thing, except road noise started drowning it out. It does not seem to get louder with engine speed, but frequency does.

It really does not sound like any ignition-related pinging that I have ever heard before. Is my engine fore-telling of evil things to come?

 

Check the crankshaft end-play.

 

I'm curious of the outcome I've got a 03 x w/ the same prob w/98k started a week or so ago and getting worse was gonna pull valve cover this weekend bad rocker??? but again as stated before it sounds deeper pitched like a rod knock

 

please keep us up on what is found man. beyond what we have all had to deal with this is a new one.

 

I wish I could find a Ford Modular specialist in the Kansas City area. I don't trust any of the Ford dealers in the area for reasons which I will save for another day.

I'll try to check the end play this weekend. Otherwise, I am most likely going to be shopping for a new truck. If it is inside the engine, I have a lack of facilities, time, and, to be honest, desire to tear into the engine. I'll post up anything I find/decide.

 

I just went outside and started disconnected one COP at a time. When I disconnected cylinder #8, the noise I have been dealing with got quite a bit worse. Still in the same RPM range, but much more acute, more harsh, if that makes any sense.

This test did bring about a new observation. When any one of the COP's was disconnected, the engine knocked pretty bad at an idle. This knocking was a low pitch, similar to your typical rod knock. This may be something I duplicate again tomorrow after a good night's rest, and trace with the stethoscope. The engine ran smooth otherwise.

 

What usually fails in the coast clutch is the snap ring that holds the clutch inside the drum. Often the snap ring comes out of the groove and the clutch can't apply. Nothing else bad happens. I know of some that the snap ring broke into pieces. Depending where these pieces end up it could cause a trans failure. This is not likely, but it is possible.

 

i pulled my valve cover sunday and everything was good. This morning drove truck to work got halfway there and knock got much worse very quickly and then... BANG. Must of threw a rod cause there is a hole in the back of the oil pan that i can stick my finger in. FYI happened very quick and very dramatically. From a ping to a blown motor in just a few miles

 

How many miles?

 

98k still a virgin