When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just replaced the original manual master cylinder and front drum brakes with a Classic Performance Product (CPP) power disk brake conversion kit with the under cab booster/mc. I was able to reuse my existing brake lines since they only had 1000 mile on them. Can anyone give me some tips on bleeding the system? I bench bleed the m/c before installation, but I still have a soft/no pedal condition. This makes it just about impossible to push the remaining air in the lines out through the wheel cylinder bleeders. Is this all due to trapped air, or could it be something else? I checked all lines and cylinders for any possible leaks. Should I try gravity bleeding? HELP
general bleeding takes 2 people on to pump and hold pedal down and one to crack the bleeders then repeat.
how much is your kit? im looking for one for a 51. let ,me know how you like it when your done
I tried bleeding the lines with two people. The problem is that I have almost a no pedal condition. I can't pump up enough pressure to hold up the pedal.
The cost for the CPP complete conversion kit with 5 on 5 1/2" bolt pattern is roughly $795.
the first time we bled mine i pumped and held to the floor, he cracked them and tightened then i had to pick the pedal up and start again. first 2 times the pedal needed to be picked up but the 3 time it held itself up and all wenrt normal.
Is their a bleeder screw on the under the cab booster? The ones I have seen do. The engine may also need to be running,for the vacume. Let us how well it works when you are done.
I had the same problem when I installed a new master cylinder. It turned out that while bolting it in, I inadvertently tilted the m/c enough to allow air into the lower cavities. D'oh! To fix it, I had to bench-bleed the m/c all over again.
To check yours, take the cover off your m/c and have a buddy slowly pump the pedal. If you see any occasional air bubbles rising up out of the piston chamber, disconnect the brakelines, plug the m/c fittings, and "bench bleed" the m/c again. I hope it fixes your problem.
Well I finally got the air out of the system, and the brakes work fine now. I started by re-centering the proportioning valve, then bleeding the m/c while on the truck, then bleeding the lines.
I took it for a short ride today, and they work great. I would recommend the CPP conversion kit to anyone. JOHN
Koshare,
The proportioning valve is nothing more than a safety feature. I unhooked the warning light assembly and readjusted the valve internally. Apparently, when I bench bleed the M/C, I did it to fast and it threw the valve off center, which made my low-pressure warning light come on.
DS59,
The website address for Classic Performance Products is as follows: www.classicperform.com
Also, the kits that Mid-Fifty sells is the same product. This kit was VERY easy to install. The new wheel adapter was the hardest part to install. After heating up the adapter, it went on just fine.
Originally posted by sschev70 Koshare,
The proportioning valve is nothing more than a safety feature. I unhooked the warning light assembly and readjusted the valve internally. Apparently, when I bench bleed the M/C, I did it to fast and it threw the valve off center, which made my low-pressure warning light come on.
DS59,
The website address for Classic Performance Products is as follows: www.classicperform.com
Also, the kits that Mid-Fifty sells is the same product. This kit was VERY easy to install. The new wheel adapter was the hardest part to install. After heating up the adapter, it went on just fine.
Originally posted by sschev70 Koshare,
The proportioning valve is nothing more than a safety feature. I unhooked the warning light assembly and readjusted the valve internally. Apparently, when I bench bleed the M/C, I did it to fast and it threw the valve off center, which made my low-pressure warning light come on.
As soon as I posted the question I realized what you were talking about. I now wonder if this is where my problems lies because my symptoms are the same you were experiencing.
I also used a CPP kit on a 50 F1 and was very pleased with the results. I had the under-floor booster as well. I had the hardest time bleeding mine too. I vaccum bled them, but could never get all the air out because the entire brake system is almost level. I finally ended up jacking the truck way up at each end and bleeding the opposite end. After a few iterations of this they worked great. I kept the master cylinder full using a big syringe from Tractor Supply and a piece of rubber tubing as I didn't want to cut an extra hole in the floor to fill with (if you are not faniliar with this swap, with power brakes it moves the master cylinder back from the factory fill hole). If you bleed at extreme angles, you don't want to uncover the port in the bottom of the master cylinder or you will suck air in and have to start all over.
Markd,
The CPP kit now even comes with it's own M/C fill bottle. It's nothing more than a plastic squeeze bottle with an angled tube coming out of the top. Thanks everyone JOHN
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.