Water Separator plug rusted
#1
Water Separator plug rusted
So I have come to this site many times to find salutions for my 6.0 and this is my first time posting because I couldn't find anything like this.
I was driving down the highway the other day and it died with no worning. When I went to pull the code nothing cam up. I read many threads about HPOP and IPR but today I decieded to change the fuel filters to try the cheapest thing first. When I went to change the lower filter I saw the separator plug was at a slight angle. Stuck an allen on it and it wiggled. After a little back and forth wigglin, no turning, it popped out and i found this;
Now here comes the question. Could this cause the truck to just die like that? And if so what do I need to do?
I was driving down the highway the other day and it died with no worning. When I went to pull the code nothing cam up. I read many threads about HPOP and IPR but today I decieded to change the fuel filters to try the cheapest thing first. When I went to change the lower filter I saw the separator plug was at a slight angle. Stuck an allen on it and it wiggled. After a little back and forth wigglin, no turning, it popped out and i found this;
Now here comes the question. Could this cause the truck to just die like that? And if so what do I need to do?
#2
Not sure about whether or not the plug was the reason for the shut down unless you are having extreme clogging in the housing. Would be a good idea to remove and clean out the debris inside.
This plug will not rust.
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade 6E7Z-9C082-A
This plug will not rust.
HFCM Water Separator Drain Plug Upgrade 6E7Z-9C082-A
#3
#4
If that plug was loose, then yes, it'll cause the truck to stall. It will suck air and you'll loose fuel pressure. Hopefully your housing is okay and you'll be able to replace the plug. Pull the HFCM, put it on a bench and inspect the plug threads. If they're stripped you'll need a new one. I would also replace the secondary fuel filter after the plug replacement or hfcm replacement.
Either route, I would check out fuel pressure after the repair. Definitely don't want to burn up them injectors!
Either route, I would check out fuel pressure after the repair. Definitely don't want to burn up them injectors!
#5
#6
New covers do not have a heater if yours has one, not to worry they are a joke and Ford left them off of the later builds. Just tape the wires or terminate them with something so they don't give you issues.
#7
I just got done cleaning it out and checked all the threads. Everything looked good and went back together smoothly. I'm kind stuck until i can get a new plug though. No one around here has just a plug and all the dealerships are closed. I guess it will have to wait until tomorrow to get one.
Where do I find the pressure test fitting?
My brother-in-law mentioned it could be the electrical connection to the injectors or the regulator, what do you think about that?
Where do I find the pressure test fitting?
My brother-in-law mentioned it could be the electrical connection to the injectors or the regulator, what do you think about that?
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#11
That will do it. If you live in a cold area or your batteries are not stellar I would charge up the batteries before you try to rotate the motor. If you don't have a charger, then unbolt the cable on the passenger battery that has the cable for the alternator and GPCM module until your done clearing the lines. Those fuel pump burbings will also drive the glow plugs, a heavy draw, and three or more attempts will bring the batteries down so its conceivable that your restart will draw the batteries to a troublesome voltage level.
#12
Cycle it again after the bowl fills up(cap on of course), most of that air is going to work it's way out through the return line. It might run like crap for a little bit as the trapped air makes it way out.
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