A lot has happened since my last post, and I've made significant progress getting back to driving, but still a ways to go.

I've replaced the cam and lifters, new cam specs as follows;
.484I/.510E lift
204I/214E duration
112 degree center line, ground 5 degrees advanced

This required new valve springs, so I'm also replacing the original 2 piece spring retainers and valve stem seals while I'm in there.

passenger side valve springs done.

In order to prevent the rear intake gasket from squishing out again, I did a couple things 1) I let the cork end seals dry for several days using Right Stuff gasket adhesive. 2) Then I drilled several 1/16 holes on the underside of the intake and inserted welding wire into the holes leaving about an 1/8 inch sticking out to act as cleats that will stab into the cork holding it in place.


I had to make a couple modifications to the Edelbrock intake in order to work with the stock engine stuff, like the pin at the top of the front china wall. I had to drill and grind out a groove similar to the stock intake, and I also opened up the thermostat opening to allow the old style large thermostat.


Although there was nothing wrong with the old fuel pump, it was a replacement style AC unit, so I located a correct button top Carter remanufactured by AEM, Ford's licensed reman company in Farmer's Branch Texas. I painted the filter red just for contrast. I've seen an original in red with the same stamping as the white one available in reproduction but with white lettering against the red background.

The chrome valve covers are just temporary to keep dirt out. When everything else is done on the engine I'll put the repainted originals on.

Well that's it for now. It's 24F degrees outside and 4 inches of snow. My garage isn't heated, so I don't expect to make much progress until it warms up a bit.

 

A couple of other changes I forgot to mention are the aluminum water pump, the double roller timing chain and gears, and the ARP oil pump drive shaft.

I was concerned that I hadn't put any lube on the front face of the cam where it meets the thrust plate, so I pulled the timing cover back off. It's a good thing I did. I had forgotten to tighten the timing gear to cam bolt, d'oh! Glad I got that taken care of.

 

When in doubt, check it out. Many times I've had that haunting feeling something was wrong. Most of the time there was nothing wrong, but that one time there is, it makes it all worth while.

 

I failed to document the location where I removed the radio condenser. The number on the end doesn't match what Number Dummy posted on 4-26-2016 from page 20 section 182 of the MPC.

The number on the end of the condenser I have is C5OA 18801 A. The MPC calls out C6AZ 18827 A for the alternator, and C5OZ 18827 A at the coil. I'm hoping the number stamped on the end is the engineering number, but what I need is someone to convert this into the part number so I know where to install it.

Disregard this question. The condenser in question has a ring terminal which means it can only go to the coil. The other condenser has a bullet terminal and is still attached to the radiator support next to the voltage regulator where it attaches to the alternator to voltage regulator harness. Since I'll be installing a modern radio with bluetooth and MP3 capability, the condenser is probably unnecessary anyway as it was intended for use with an AM radio.

 

Well I think I screwed up. While I was installing the valve springs on the driver's side, I noticed the lifter valley oil shield was curled up at the front and was right smack where the pushrods would need to be for cylinders 1, 2 5 and 6. Not good. I don't know if there's a way to correct it without removing the intake. That sucks.


I've built several 302s and 351Ws and even a Chevy I6. This is my first FE build. Most of the gotchas could be caught by careful observation, and perhaps this one should have been as well, but I missed it. Aaargh!

 

When you have the intake off, it wouldn't hurt to measure pushrod length.

 

OK, I can do that, but hopefully since I haven't removed/replaced the heads or valves, or machined the block I will be able to reuse the stock ones. But better safe than sorry though.

Is the stupid lifter valley tray worth putting back in? I would just as soon leave it out.

I also lost one of the valve stem keeper halves. I've looked everywhere so I'm hoping it's down in the lifter valley. I had all the spark plugs out so I could turn it over by hand so it could have fallen down a cylinder.

I was so frustrated by the engine I started working on the interior just to keep my sanity.

 

Hopefully you kept the pushrods in order. I believe that the valley pan is there to keep hot oil from hitting the bottom of the intake. Sometimes it's good to walk away when frustration sets in.

 

Yep, I kept them in order and labeled.

 

Here are a few of the NOS parts I've acquired: Upper radiator hose, Oil pressure gauge (custom cab dash), C5TZ two sheave alternator pulley on 55 amp NOS tear drop case alternator, C5 add on crankshaft pulley.

 

I'm installing a '66 single diaphragm booster. It will have a '67 dual bowl MC actuating 3" ceramic shoes up front. I decided to get prebent lines to save time. I found a C8TZ distribution block.

 

I found a NOS oil pressure sender for my NOS oil pressure gauge, although it's a '67. I added a spade terminal adapter from Scott Drake.

 

Other changes in work:
1) NOS under dash wire harness. Mine had some re-terminated ends at the ignition switch. I don't know if the custom cab harness is different than the regular cab, but if it is I'll use the original to make the necessary modifications. I'm also going to have to add/change wiring for the oil pressure gauge.
2) 2 speed wiper motor is on it's way. It will be activated by a push to wash switch. I've removed everything from the dash in prep for repainting (back to Wimbledon white). As I put things back together, I'll be installing the new modern retrofit radio as well.
3) The hole where the washer switch was installed will now host the fuel tank selector switch. It came from an early Bronco and looks right at home.
4) Removed and inspected the heater box. The heater core checked good. Still need to check the fan. If everything checks good I'll clean and re-install everything.

 

After testing each component individually, I bench tested the entire assembly using a 12V power supply. Everything checked good. High and low speed fan, core was neither obstructed or leaked, both doors opened and shut properly. After disassembly everything was cleaned and re-assembled with soft foam sealant around the heater core and the water tubes. I wasn't able to find a foam kit for a '66, so I just made my own.

 

Since my truck came with a separate harness for the WS washer switch, I will need to come up with something for the integrated push to wash switch to work.

Question: Did the push to wash WS wiper switch come in a '66? Is there a dedicated wire harness for it like there is for the dash mounted switch? I'm sure I can fabricate something if I need to, but if there is a factory harness available I'd prefer to keep it stock. I hate to cut up a brand new NOS under dash harness.