Hey all,

First a foremost, love this site. I find myself on here all most daily and appreciate everyone's insight and knowledge! I'm dealing with a 2003 E450 with the 7.3 diesel. Had an oil leak from the hpop. Removed the hpop the first time and did a bench o'ring reseal. (Thanks Riffraff diesel!) installed the pump back in and started cranking to bleed the air. After several (10 long cranks), no start. Removed the pump back out and opened up the non service plug (which I did do on the initial reseal job) and check the check ball to make sure that was in place. (It was). Installed the pump back in and began to crank again. This time, I blew the oil pressure plug/sensor off the top of the reservoir. Now, before anyone freaks, to be fair, the sensor hole where it screws in, has been messed up for awhile (before I owned this). It will screw snug but will not screw tight to a stop. However, I only cranked it 2-3 long cranks after the 2nd install after checking the check ball versus 10 times the first go 'round. So I know I have good oil pressure now (thanks to the oil mess I now I have). There wasn't really any drivability issues before hand, just a leak. I do not have any scan tool to monitor IPR or ICP. I did remove the IPR valve when doing the reseal on the pump but I have not touched the ICP. Does anyone know where to start my diag? My reservoir is full (obviously from blown oil pressure sensor). Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Since you don't have a scan tool, you are limited to visual inspections and how the truck sounds and acts when cranking it.

Be sure that the HPOP is sealed against the reservoir completely. There was a member on here not too long ago that had about 1/8" gap between the pump and the base. Check the IPR for the tin nut and ensure it is tight. Check that the IPR is plugged in. Fill the HPOP reservoir with oil to about 1" from the top. Check the oil level in the pan. Are you sure you have fuel and the glow plugs are working as intended? Batteries still have at least 10.5 volts to them while cranking?

This is a start.

 

Thanks for the reply Sous!

I will check the HPOP against the reservoir but I do not have any leaks when cranking. Wouldn't there be oil leaking from the front of the pump if there was a slight gap at the mate between the pump and cover? The IPR is plugged in. The nut on the back of the IPR is tight. I did notice that the IPR plug has some oil residue on it. Also, I noticed some bare wire on the harness upon inspection. I will address that but I did check the plug for power and it did show 11.30 volts with key on, engine off. So although the bare wire needs to be fixed and I will, I know the IPR is still receiving power from the ICP/PCM. The reservoir is full (verified by removing oil pressure plug on top of reservoir) and batteries are a little weak from cranking but checked at 12.02 volts still. The fuel bowl is full of diesel and the glow plugs seem to be fine. The WTS light comes on briefly when turning key on and goes off and it cranks normal. It's just not firing. It rain fine when parked before removing HPOP so I'm not sure how glow plugs would form an issue just sitting but I suppose anything is a possibility! I very well could just need to continue cranking to try and remove more air. I just got scared when the oil pressure inside the reservoir was high enough to pop out the oil pressure plug/sensor out of the top of the reservoir. I would think if oil pressure was that good, under normal operation, the van should begin to fire (500psi)

 

You can Back-Probe the ICP using a "T" Pin and use a DVOM to view the Voltage.

ICP: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 1.0 vdc @ 580 psig, and 3.22volts @ 2520 psig.

ICP Vdc
(psi)
0 0.2
200 0.4
400 0.73
600 0.96
800 1.2
1000 1.4
1200 1.6
1400 1.9
1600 2.1
1800 2.3
2000 2.6
2200 2.8
2400 3.0
2600 3.3
2800 3.5
3000 3.8

 

I think what Sous is referring to the relationship of the pump shaft to the gear inside the housing. Very common to get it cockeyed which will result in no pressure = no start. Pull inspection plate/ access to the HPOP bolt remove and make sure the gear is flush.


Better than pulling the pump

I put my Adrenaline in and it started right up....lucky I guess. Good luck

 

Great info! Thank you!

 

I didn't ever think of that. Thanks spongecop! On both installs of the pump, when I went to install the nut and washer I did notice (by feel, not visual) that the hole for the bolt was off center. It was too far left and I couldn't get the bolt to start threading. However, I was able to put my finger in there and move the gear to the right. At that point I was able to thread the bolt in. So my question is, once I was able to move the gear and start the bolt, did that center it up to where it should build pressure or am I still wrong?

 

That's what I have done and it has worked for me.

 

When I installed my T500 I had a no start issue and I unplugged the ICP and cranked it a few more times and it started up. With the ICP unplugged it will go to a default mapping. Once it was running I turned the truck off and plugged the ICP back in and about 50 miles later it ran as good as new.

 

When I put in my T500 I had done other work and had the reservoir dry and the rails were mostly drained. It was having a dickens of a time trying to fire. It was right there and I could tell it wanted to turn over and fire. I ended up attaching a battery booster pack as it was starting to crank slower and I was losing juice. After connecting it I gave it another shot and after a few seconds it fired up and barked to life.

 

The more air you can replace with oil (reservoir, rails, etc.) the easier it is going to be on your truck to start. It is a lot easier, most of the time, for you to purge as much air as possible from the system than what it is for the truck. It takes a lot to turn these beasts over and the less work your starter, batteries and associated parts has to do to start it, the less hassle and aggravation you are going to have to get it going down the street again......

 

U

my reservoir is full. Outside of that, I'm not sure what else I can do to purge air or replace air with oil. Any ideas?

 

Thanks BadDogKuzz. I am famiar with the default mapping. I believe it is approx 2,000 psi which should in turn make my IPR around 75%. I however, didn't think to try that. I'll give that a shot today. Much appreciated.

 

Dieselsite has a great instruction sheet for HPOP R&R...go to the last page for no-start trouble shooting. He says the number one cause for no start is an air bubble under the ICP sensor. I would remove the sensor and use a small dropper to fill the rail with oil (as in their instructions). After that it should run if no other issues are present (i.e. low voltage etc)

www.dieselsite.com

 

Great info! Thank you all! I will check out that site.