I am in the process of fixing a serious rust on a wheel well on a long bed, however I think I took too much out for the small panel. I could try to make it work, could take significant welding, bondo work. Or I could get a whole bedside from LMC. Has anyone done this and found it to be worth the money to just replace the whole thing.


LMC part: 49-8110-T bedside outer-LH 1 gas hole


249.99 plus 125 for the freight.


I could probably make things work with what I have now with fabrication and some scrap, but the welds would be right on the in-dent on the bed, so I feel like that line would always be imperfect and would bug the ***** out of me.

 

 

Either way you go there will be some fab work involved. Some on here have procured various LMC panels and most say they fit but fitment is shabby.


The LMC panel may be the best bet in the long run but if it was me, and the truck looks like that in your pic, I wouldn't worry about where the welds are and save my self some money by using what I had. Besides, welds are made to be grinded down. ...... if you did manage to screw something up or didn't like the fitment or the look of your work, you could cut it out and redo it not having to worry about repainting or scratches....

 

I bought new bed sides from Obsolete & Classic Auto Parts in Oklahoma City. They look to be a bit more money ($350 per side) than what they were when I bought them. The guy who did my body work said they fit well. I'm not sure if they come from the same place as LMC panels or not. I couldn't tell the difference from a factory bed once they were on


Centrally located right here in the heart of Oklahoma

 

Another option is a repair panel from National Parts Depot. I bought a set of long bed quarters. These are only available with the square filler hole. I bought the repair panel with a round filler hole so I can cut it out and patch it into the quarter.
They also have the same repair panel with the square filler hole. Mine cost $50.00.

EDIT: I checked the new NPD catalog, repair panel w/ square filler hole, page 201, part number F-27883-1R3 $55.95.
They also have a smaller section that looks about like the section you cut out for about half the cost of the repair panel.

 

awesome, thanks for the info.

 

Here is how Bud Mud did it. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...made-easy.html

 

Looking at the side of your box, behind the rear wheel is also rusted through so I would go with a complete side as apposed to welding in several repair panels. If you drill all the spot welds out, you can remove the entire side in about 2 hrs. Clean the areas where the inner panel and outer panel meet and panel bond the new panel on instead of welding it . You will still need to weld it to the front panel and inside the taillight but that's it. You''ll need a dozen clamps or vise grips and you just fit and clamp the panel on. It's very fast, very easy and you'll have a new side that looks good without building a side out of bondo. All costs considered the new side is cheaper in the end. YouTube it, I am sure there's a video on panel bonding on there somewhere. Good luck with it.

 

what do you quite mean about *bond* the metal together? vs. spot welding it completely?

 

Too bad LMC or other places don't sell the base/bottom of the bed as well.

 

Panel bonding is a process that essentially "glues" panels together instead of spot welding them.
Now days this is widely used in car manufacturing and also in repair and has been for years.
Spot welds are still used where panels are subject to high loads.

 

 

Yes, there are specific panel bonding adhesives, they're two part and require a precise mix. There are also brand specific applicator guns that do the mixing.
3M "8115" and Lord "Fusor" are two big names in panel bonding adhesives.

 

So in a long term idea, if I got the new side, and used the adhesive bonds, should I also bedliner the inside of that wheel well panel so it doesn't rust in 20 years?

 

I would, an ounce of prevention.
On the panel, if you do use panel bonding, you should still spot weld the area along the rear tailpost, wheel well and at the headboard.