OK, well, after this other thread and everything I patched didn't fix
my leak... Well, it did some, but its still leaking around the back of the pan..

Anyway, i am about to pull the pan and carefully re-do the pan gasket.

I had a heck of a time the last time, with the end seals siliconed to the pan, in the exact place they go(as close as i could anyway-lined up with the side pieces..) they didn't want to go into the grooves in the main caps... I had to shimmy it back and forth endwise to get them to go up in(like they were set too close together, closer than the grooves were together).

I think that is the reason for the remaining leak, at the back end of the pan; the rubber end piece isn't seated right, or pinched in there etc.. Even if it turns out thats not the case when I get it out to look, its still a pain getting it up in place like this...

If I just adjust where they are on the pan, I could get it too far apart and have the same problem-- and also, they wouldn't be lined up with the ends of the side cork pieces properly anymore.

SO The Question Is,
can I silicone the new gasket sides and rubber ends to the block and the caps, then apply the pan up against it?

Would also make it easier since the pan is press fitting between the blocks in the engine mounts, its hard to get it up there without messing up the gasket atached to it in those areas.. but if the gasket was already on the block..

G.

 

447 views and no-ones tried this?

Looks like I'm the test rat....

G.

 

Lo, and behold, looked at the factory manual for the torque spec on the pan bolts, and its soposed to be done this way, by affixing it to the block, not the pan.

I'd just never seen it done that way or heard of it being done that way... neither had a couple friends, both life long mechanics(one professionally, certified by GM for a decade...)

Weird.

Anyway, is back in.
was deffinatelly much easier done that way.

will see if it doesn't leak tomorrow after the silicone sets up ,and I get my seats back in.

G.

 

How did it work after setting up overnight?

 

It was fine for a day or so, then started leaking again, and in a couple trips was back to about a quart every other trip to town, and a couple more back to a quart every trip like it was before.

I've come to the conclussion that the reason there was a 1/2" to 3/4"(I kid you not!) bead of silicone around the inside and out of the pan gasket the first time I pulled it was the previous owners fix to this problem... And as tempting as that may be, I've opted for a different oil pan, I think this one has a twist/ripple to it;

I had seen the last time out, what looked like a curve to one spot, but upon looking at it thought it was an optical illusion caused by the contour of the pan there... Now I think I must have been mistaken, and right to begin with; its bent.

Also planning to make the install one step easier; Installing a stud kit, so the gasket is located and can't move at all during the procedure. And also, the pan will instantly be in the right place, no shimmying it around needed.

If a 'new' pan don't fix it, I'm gonna weld the bloody pan to the block and be done with it. (And then wait for my oil pump o die so I need into it..... LOL)

G.

 

glad this was here! i was attempting to start putting on a new oil pan gasket and decided to check FTE for some insight on installing it! and it was easier to afix the gasket to the block then to the pan lol i hope after my RVT sets up it wont leak lol.. but my pan is pretty straight. god i love FTE!