Driving down the road or idling, my truck will just shut off, abruptly. Will usually start right back up, although sometimes will take a while, like engine is flooded w/fuel. Any ideas? I just replaced a starter relay that I thought might have been the problem (i.e. ignition not getting juice). I had a very slow start and my + cable (battery to relay and relay to starter) were getting very hot.

Any ideas?

 

Igition module or pick-up in the distributor. Get hot and fail.

 

X2 Classic Symptoms for module or distributor pick-up.

If funds allow, replace both. Also buy a quality Motorcraft module, anything will develop the same symptoms eventually.

Josh

 

The three step scenario of a failing DuraSpark ignition module:

1) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts almost at once.

2) Module overheats, engine dies. Module cools down, engine re-starts in an hour...or so.

3) Sooner or later...usually sooner, the module overheats, BURNS OUT. Now the engine will not re-start.

Since the module fails when it overheats, taking it to an autoparts store to be tested, usually doesn't work unless the little charmer has burnt out.

The module is mounted up against the left inner fender apron. When replacing it, use some washers to space it further away, the more airflow around the little charmer...the better.

The modules used in the 1970's were crap, notorious for failing. Ford mechanics back then refered to DuraSpark as NeverSpark.

Modules are ID'd by a colored plastic square above where the wires feed out. If a 1976/79 vehicle was not sold new in CA, it will have the blue module.

1U2Z12A199AA (replaced D9VZ12A199A, D8VZ12A199A, D6AZ12A199A) .. Ignition Module-Blue (Motorcraft DY893) / Available from Ford.

MSRP: $142.00 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $76.68 / PartsGuyEd = Ed Olson, parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle WA
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D4PZ12A112A .. Stator (aka Magnetic Pickup Coil)-mounts inside the dizzy. (Motorcraft DU1A) / Available from Ford.

Fits: 1974/79 all V8 Passenger Cars/F100/350's/Bronco's & Econolines...except 1979 LTD/Mercury Grand Marquis with EEC.

MSRP: $97.96 // PARTSGUYED.COM price: $52.90.

This puppy was far more reliable than the ignition modules, very few were replaced by themselves. However...Ford mechanics usually replaced it along with the ignition module.

 

Thanks Guys.

Yeah, I had forgotten all about the big silver box! My 83 Crown Vic had one, but was never replaced. Thinking that was either Duraspark III or IV. I'm used to the GM variation that stuffs the module into the HEI.

I know I shouldn't ask, but that Motorcraft part is over twice what a 'quality' aftermarket one is (e.g. Standard). Plus, they guarantee some of those aftermarket ones at Napa and Carquest for a good deal longer than the Motorcraft (1 yr). I'm ok sticking w. FoMoCo, but....you know, funds are short these days. Waiting till next paycheck to replace my clutch master and slave cylinder on my 95SS Impala.

 

Which price are you refering to? The MSRP, or the FTE member discounted price?

The discounted price shoild be similar to what the autoparts store MADE in CHINA modules cost...that aren't worth diddly-squat.

There's an old sayiing: "You get what you pay for, buy the best and cry only once."

 

Twenty years ago my '76 F250 4x4 kept doing the same thing. I'd be driving down the road, no problems and then the truck would just die. I'd get out of the cab, cussing and kicking, open the hood, look around and pretend to look like I knew what I was looking for, get back in the cab and it would start back up, until the next time. One day on Thanksgiving I was driving up the highway to my Dad's house and guess what? Yeah, you guessed it. This time I just sat there steaming. Then it happened, I heard it! Hissing coming from the tank behind the seat, but it wasn't hissing it way sucking! the darn gas cap wasn't venting and the fuel pump couln't overcome the built up vacuum in the tank. I opened the cap and the truck started right up. Replaced the cap and never had the problem again. It's worth checking out...

 

You're right about most of the aftermarkets. Made in China (MIC). But my loyalty to GM/AC Delco and Motorcraft has waned the last few years. GM was making CRAP in-tank fuel sending unit/fuel pumps for a lot of years (B and D bodies). In fact, some in which they outsourced production didn't even fit in the tanks! I have a hard time coming to grips with paying 2X (even with 10% over wholesale I get for at least GM parts) what an aftermarket costs and getting a 1 yr. warranty. Yeah, aftermarkets are made overseas, but many carry lifetime warranty. On something that's easy to replace on the old Ford, like an alternator or a starter, I'm not against going the MIC route.

The field that I work in, pharmaceutical manufacturing, believe it or not, is also going overseas, to India and China. Trust me, it will not be even five years before many of your common Rx drugs are being made in China, for 20-30% of what it would cost to make it in the U.S. But the selling price will remain the same or would go higher.

On the fuel cap, my 77 doesn't have an EVAP system. I don't have a vented cap - maybe I need to get one? Still, this problem just started about two months ago, and I've been driving the truck for three years, so agree w/ some of the other posts that it is likely electronic.