Well, if you're thinning Rustoleum topcoat with mineral spirits or any type of paint with gasoline, I can see why these paints have failed so quickly.

I just don't understand why people fail to read the instructions on the can and just go off on a tangent like this, then complain when the paint fails . . .

Ray

 

The paint I thinned with gasoline is still shiny after 10 or more years. BUT...It's inside and doesn't see much light. The old work van faded pretty badly, but it never got washed or waxed. I have had a few things fade a little and chalk up, but some polishing and waxing shined it all back up.

BTW, no complaints from me. I'm totally happy with the cheaper paints. Of course, I don't have unrealistic expectations, either.

 

Good point .

 

dustyroad,
Thanks for the link to Dennis Carpenter. Found items I needed. Now just need the cash to buy LOL. Want to get the basic truck reliable, cam, lifters, etc. Still haven't found the reason for not having back brakes. Truth is, haven't climbed underneath and checked if the lines going to rear brakes are clogged. Good tip in the 5 vol repair manuals I got from Bronco Graveyard. The manuals appear to be a good copy of Fords service manuals for my 74. Probably going to be the best investment, $35, to help me speak Ford LOL. Having fun with this old boy and loving the sound of a 460ci. Fun to drive and the damn thing pulls from the giddy up. Don't like the gas stops, too frequent, but it's worth the price. Thank God, it's not my daily driver!! Got minor rust on Spike, not many rot spots, yet!! Into the wind. Enjoy the Journey, I am.
Dave

 

looks they hate POR-15, chassis saver, master series and the like over at this forum..

http://autobodystore.com/forum/forum.php

 

i know how im dong my frame. sand blasting what i can get to spaying por 15 on it and top coating it with ford tractor blue paint from tractor supply and calling it good. how many blue or even colored truck frames have u seen.

 

Here are my bilco doors
. About 3 years old. SANDBLASTED to white metal and 2 coats of rustiolum rolled on. NOT thinned

 

Just curious - what type of rustolium?? Sure it wasn't the industrial ! Also was it primed?? Coats??

 

That is a perfect base for por or chassis saver!

 

NON industrial and NOT primed. But primer would of done Nothing for the fade and burn through. It is NOT lifting, just burning right thru

 

Here is a semi scale frame, sandblasted, POR15(1 gallon) and Valspar tractor black(1 gallon)
I realize EVERYONE is trying to save money where they can, but my TIME is way to valuable to have to do a big project like twice TWINE due to an inferior product

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You can get hardner from tractor supply for the Valspar tractor paint which helps the fading issue.

 

Excellent stuff! That is a crap ton of work right there and I agree I only want to do that stuff once! Nothing worse than going threw all the work and seeing paint start to peal or rust come threw within a year!

The gallon of chassis saver was $120 and I know it will hold up for at least a few years and then probably only need a few touch ups. Well worth the price to me!

 

I aggree on the rustolium stuff. Was just a question. I was go to use rustolium industrial, not really due to being cheaper, just to try.. Now looking at Master series silver - then top coat.

 

I'm shocked to see that no one on here used what I used on my frame. Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black. Comes in gallons, quarts, or aerosol spray can. I used the aerosol cans myself. Turned out awesome. I had my frame sandblasted prior to doing it and even coated it with Eastwood rust encapsulator as a primer.