Score of week! 8-22.5" wheels and tires for my F6
#1
Score of week! 8-22.5" wheels and tires for my F6
Guy was selling an 56 F500 and 56 F100 he had some extra tires wheels (9) total, I probably could have gotten a good package deal if I had picked up the two 56 trucks and tires and Yblocks etc If I had wanted them but not into the 56 truck nor do I need more distractions!
got
6, 8-22.5" tubless wheels and good (old tires) 5 tires are Daytons, 1 is a Remington
3, 8.25x20 lock rings with goodyears (some small crackingmaybe ok??)
I got all of them for $35 each I probably could have picked them up for even less if I could have waited a week? but did not want to miss out on them...
Couple Questions though.
my 52 F6 8.25x 20" wheels look like they have about 8.5" backspace and approx 2" front.
these 22.5" wheels look like approx 7&3/4" backspace and 1.5" front?
I think these should fit just fine on my truck but wanted to ask here as well.
they will make the truck sit approx 2-3" lower being as they are 8 instead of 8.25? or up. but I dont mind.
these 22.5" are noticably narrower than whats on there now but I don't think it will be a problem?
How do I get the beads to seat on these tubless tires, I only messed with one for a few minutes but obviously I need some tips on how to get the air to stay in them.
now I have about 21 of the 8.25x20 lockrings to get rid of, wew!!!!
here is the rest of what I saw today.
big truck tires wheels pictures by jfmadsen - Photobucket
got
6, 8-22.5" tubless wheels and good (old tires) 5 tires are Daytons, 1 is a Remington
3, 8.25x20 lock rings with goodyears (some small crackingmaybe ok??)
I got all of them for $35 each I probably could have picked them up for even less if I could have waited a week? but did not want to miss out on them...
Couple Questions though.
my 52 F6 8.25x 20" wheels look like they have about 8.5" backspace and approx 2" front.
these 22.5" wheels look like approx 7&3/4" backspace and 1.5" front?
I think these should fit just fine on my truck but wanted to ask here as well.
they will make the truck sit approx 2-3" lower being as they are 8 instead of 8.25? or up. but I dont mind.
these 22.5" are noticably narrower than whats on there now but I don't think it will be a problem?
How do I get the beads to seat on these tubless tires, I only messed with one for a few minutes but obviously I need some tips on how to get the air to stay in them.
now I have about 21 of the 8.25x20 lockrings to get rid of, wew!!!!
here is the rest of what I saw today.
big truck tires wheels pictures by jfmadsen - Photobucket
Last edited by jmadsen; 07-31-2010 at 04:05 PM. Reason: spelling
#2
Josh - That's a great score. You have a knack for finding such treasures.
But please see that you don't have 8" x 22.5" wheels, you have 5.25" x 22.5" wheels. Probably they are Budd part #69930. You'll find that number stamped along the edge of the drop center on the concave side of each wheel. (If you find a different number please post it). The "design" tire width for that rim was a 7" tire, and the "max permissible" was an 8". Unfortunately 7" and 8" x 22.5" tires aren't brought into the US any longer. I've seen 8" still being made when I've Googled that size, all from China, but the narrowest 22.5" tire available in the US is now a 9R22.5. That tire is recommended for a 6.75" wide rim.
I've had this discussion with Chuck, and he says he uses the 9R22.5 on his truck with the 5.25" rims. He says the tires crown more than they should, but it makes steering input real easy. Probably also a factor, generally guys today don't load these old trucks as heavy as when they were in service so there won't be the normal stresses on the tires. So I'd say see what your tire shop says about it.
Another thing I'll add, on these early wheels Budd specifically excluded warranty coverage if used with radial tires. They found that the early tubeless rims were fracturing under the lateral loads when fitted with radials. They added metal thickness in the 1970s and coded the redesigned wheels with a letter "R" to show they were approved for radials. Again, it might not matter today if the truck isn't loaded as it would have been when in service. Just be aware, and consult your tire professionals.
You asked about the offset/dish of these wheels compared with your tube type 20s. They have much less dish. The #69930 is listed as having 4 13/16" of dish, which when doubled yields 9 5/8" of dual spacing. Your stock 20" wheel on an F-6 would likely be 6.5" wide which would have 11 1/4" of dual spacing. For comparison, an old 20" x 5" Budd had 9.5" of dual spacing, and the newest 22.5" x 6.75", Budd #R89810, had 11 23/32" of dual spacing. The comparable 6.75" Accuride #27759 had 11 7/8" of dual spacing. So to use the 9" tire on the 5.25" rim you might have to think about using a spacer between the rear duals to keep the tires from rubbing each other.
I'm no help on getting the tire to seat. You've seen I think the chart that I've posted before comparing the bead profiles of tube type and tubeless. I'd guess that you'd maybe have to put a belt/tie down around the tire to hold the bead to the rim if you're not having luck holding the tire in position. Stu
But please see that you don't have 8" x 22.5" wheels, you have 5.25" x 22.5" wheels. Probably they are Budd part #69930. You'll find that number stamped along the edge of the drop center on the concave side of each wheel. (If you find a different number please post it). The "design" tire width for that rim was a 7" tire, and the "max permissible" was an 8". Unfortunately 7" and 8" x 22.5" tires aren't brought into the US any longer. I've seen 8" still being made when I've Googled that size, all from China, but the narrowest 22.5" tire available in the US is now a 9R22.5. That tire is recommended for a 6.75" wide rim.
I've had this discussion with Chuck, and he says he uses the 9R22.5 on his truck with the 5.25" rims. He says the tires crown more than they should, but it makes steering input real easy. Probably also a factor, generally guys today don't load these old trucks as heavy as when they were in service so there won't be the normal stresses on the tires. So I'd say see what your tire shop says about it.
Another thing I'll add, on these early wheels Budd specifically excluded warranty coverage if used with radial tires. They found that the early tubeless rims were fracturing under the lateral loads when fitted with radials. They added metal thickness in the 1970s and coded the redesigned wheels with a letter "R" to show they were approved for radials. Again, it might not matter today if the truck isn't loaded as it would have been when in service. Just be aware, and consult your tire professionals.
You asked about the offset/dish of these wheels compared with your tube type 20s. They have much less dish. The #69930 is listed as having 4 13/16" of dish, which when doubled yields 9 5/8" of dual spacing. Your stock 20" wheel on an F-6 would likely be 6.5" wide which would have 11 1/4" of dual spacing. For comparison, an old 20" x 5" Budd had 9.5" of dual spacing, and the newest 22.5" x 6.75", Budd #R89810, had 11 23/32" of dual spacing. The comparable 6.75" Accuride #27759 had 11 7/8" of dual spacing. So to use the 9" tire on the 5.25" rim you might have to think about using a spacer between the rear duals to keep the tires from rubbing each other.
I'm no help on getting the tire to seat. You've seen I think the chart that I've posted before comparing the bead profiles of tube type and tubeless. I'd guess that you'd maybe have to put a belt/tie down around the tire to hold the bead to the rim if you're not having luck holding the tire in position. Stu
#3
Josh,
You can try to use a ratcheting strap wrapped around the center of the tire to encourage the beads to seal. Also, take the valve out of the valve stem so there is no restriction, you want as much air filling the tire as possible. Also, make up a soapy solution with dish soap and slather that around the rim and the bead of the tire. This does two things, first it lubricates the rubber making it slide on the rims a little easier and it also provides a slight sealing action, not much, but a little, kind of like gasket cement. Take a BFH (Big F****ing Hammer) and beat around the tread of the tire as you're filling it. This jossles the tire a bit and helps it seat. It also helps to take out some frustration.
Good score!
You can try to use a ratcheting strap wrapped around the center of the tire to encourage the beads to seal. Also, take the valve out of the valve stem so there is no restriction, you want as much air filling the tire as possible. Also, make up a soapy solution with dish soap and slather that around the rim and the bead of the tire. This does two things, first it lubricates the rubber making it slide on the rims a little easier and it also provides a slight sealing action, not much, but a little, kind of like gasket cement. Take a BFH (Big F****ing Hammer) and beat around the tread of the tire as you're filling it. This jossles the tire a bit and helps it seat. It also helps to take out some frustration.
Good score!
#4
Thanks for the tips guys! I got air in all of them.
Stu, yes they are the Budd part #69930.
My plans right now are to just run these tires/wheels "As Is" on my F6. think I should have them balanced before mounting on the truck??? I don't think the truck will ever see the freeway, or speeds anywhere near freeway speeds, But? ??
I also dont imagine I 'll be overloading it with anything either? but if business continues in the direction it's been heading I may resort to doing my own thing? such as "Elmer's Custum Manure Hauling" or some such thing
Anyway's, now I'm moving slowly forward, like a Big Old Truck.
The tires for this beast where my biggest concerns as I didn't want to wrap up any more green into it to get it back on the road. now just some body work, rubber window seals etc, and paint. she'll be rolling soon...
Stu, yes they are the Budd part #69930.
My plans right now are to just run these tires/wheels "As Is" on my F6. think I should have them balanced before mounting on the truck??? I don't think the truck will ever see the freeway, or speeds anywhere near freeway speeds, But? ??
I also dont imagine I 'll be overloading it with anything either? but if business continues in the direction it's been heading I may resort to doing my own thing? such as "Elmer's Custum Manure Hauling" or some such thing
Anyway's, now I'm moving slowly forward, like a Big Old Truck.
The tires for this beast where my biggest concerns as I didn't want to wrap up any more green into it to get it back on the road. now just some body work, rubber window seals etc, and paint. she'll be rolling soon...
#5
There are balancing packs ceramic bead or something, that you can use in your to balance them. You have to throw them into the tire and drive them a distance. I think they've been discussed here a while back. It could have been on the HAMB also but since it more of a truck thing I think it was here. Do a search on balancing tires.
#7
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#10
Looking for 8.00 x 22.5 tires??
Trying to help family take care of a restored truck. Looking for 2 8.00 x 22.5 front tires for a '53 REO. Told by Coker and ME Miller that no one makes them anymore. Saw your post. Will larger tires (9R) fit the rims? Mine are tubeless but have severe dry rot. Afraid to drive too far with them.
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
#11
There are balancing packs ceramic bead or something, that you can use in your to balance them. You have to throw them into the tire and drive them a distance. I think they've been discussed here a while back. It could have been on the HAMB also but since it more of a truck thing I think it was here. Do a search on balancing tires.
see here.. Tire Balancing Products
also search google on dynabead and you'll find sets..
dynabead - Google Product Search
Sam
#12
Trying to help family take care of a restored truck. Looking for 2 8.00 x 22.5 front tires for a '53 REO. Told by Coker and ME Miller that no one makes them anymore. Saw your post. Will larger tires (9R) fit the rims? Mine are tubeless but have severe dry rot. Afraid to drive too far with them.
Thanks, Mike
Thanks, Mike
#13
#14