Dana 60's Yeah!!!! If you keep the inside tire aired up real good and the out side tire only to 25 or so the inside tire carries almost all the weight of the vehicle. When the inside tire starts to sink in mud or gravel the other tire starts adding more traction and flotation. We really thought it would ride real bad but I must have got the adaptors welded up pretty straight, we have had it close to 50MPH on the gravel bar.

Will try to get some pictures of the adaptors sometime this weekend and post as soon as I can. I have dial up so I usually wait till I can go to the library to do any uploads or downloads.

 

If you happen to totally sink one and fill the engine full.
Drain the oil--pull the filter. put in new oil and filter after letting it drip for a while. Put new oil and filter on.
Pull the plugs---crank over engine with all the plugs out--stand back it will shoot water for a distance. Reinstall the plugs.

Here is the crucial part. Start the engine but DO NOT REV IT UP!!!! Get it where it will idle, leave oil fill cap and oil breather cap off. Let idle and engine will get warm and slowly evaporate the water out of the oil. It may take several hours, but you can watch the oil go from milk to clean. This was told to me by a veteran river runner. Doing it this way will not wipe out the bearings. After oil is running clear, Drain, Refill and change filter again. The 400 I had in the 78 was swamped at least three times and was still running good when I swapped to a 429.

Now this works good with the creek water we ran in. If it is muddy water, you will have a lot more sediment in it. No experience with that.

 

So just change your oil out once and let it idle??
My bud changed his oil like ten times to get all the damn water out lol.

 

So just change your oil out once and let it idle??
My bud changed his oil like ten times to get all the damn water out lol.

 

Read. Let idle tell water evaporates out. But just idle. Or u can wipe bearings out. Than change oil again.


I have only got water in a motor once. Had about 6 qts worth in it. A ran the **** out of it tryin to get another pickup pulled out, and than had to drive it 10 miles to get home. That motor was on its way out when I did that, and it still lasted another year as a DD.

 

Yep, I wouldn't have believed it but I tried it and it worked fine. Be sure to leave all the caps off though and the dipstick out.

I took some pictures of the adaptors and my Redneck-Hillbilly fabrication today and will try to get to the Library tomorrow and post some on here. Later Moose AKA Bruce

 

lolz. reminds me of when I hydrolocked my john deere lawn tractor. I changed the oil like 5 times and I still think there's water in there. that was some good ol' hillbilly fun....

 

We used stock steel wheels on the inside tire. You can see the flange would ride on the humps around the lugnut holes to help support the adaptor. We used standard Mag lugnuts shortened to to proper lenght. The one in the picture is not the correct one. Used it to show how we mounted the adaptor. The outside wheel was just a regular white spoke. We had to turn down the pipe some to be able to get a socket on the lugnuts.

 

Here are some pics of the Redneck-Hillbilly Fabrication. Just remember we used the KISS method. (Keep It Simple Stupid)

Front view--dropped the factory mounts 10"

Front 45 view. here you can see we dropped the steering box down to compensate. We also used the Chevy 4x4 adjustable drag link. Used the stock springs with a couple of leaves added in the front.

Front-rear 45 view. Yeah we could have got the mount a little farther back to make the shackle come out at a better angle. But since most of our playing was just puttering around we left it alone.

View to front from underneath.

Motor mount using stock 429 engine mounts.

View to rear from underneath.

Rear-front spring hanger. Again we used the stock mounts and springs.

Rear-rear spring hanger.

View from rear with winch mount. We used my Warn 8720 and we had 4 31t batteries under one of the rear seats. We used a battery in the cab for engine. We did not want to get any deeper if we got stuck we wanted to come out the direction we came in, so we put it on the rear.

Four speed to automatic adaptor. Made form two clutch centers welded together to a u-joint flange that Ford used in their early 70 2WD pickups.

Here is another shot of the steering box relocation.

The Chevy 4x4 draglink.