Thought id ask here before buying a new part that i dont have to... that being said my window today started acting up, it will go down fine but coming back up is a different story, it tries but its almost like the motor is wore out now if i get a hold of it and help it up to almost halfway then it pushes it up the rest of the way without me. i havent taken the door panel off yet to check everything plus its hot out and i just got off work. so i guess what im asking is does it sound like my power window motor is goin bad or is it maybe that its just off the track a hair? like i said tho it goes down fine and comes up with some help from me

 

I think the the linkage is stripped on either the motor or the arm (perhaps a combination of both?). Same thing happened to me about a month or so ago. I replaced it with a reman Cardone window regulator. Works like a charm now and goes up and down so fast I want to change the other side.

 

would replacing the motor if the linkages are stripped help the matter any? the only reason i as is cause the parts store across the street from work can have the part in a day and i am really good friends with the owner/manager and i figure if its just cheeper to replace the whole thing, another quick question do you know if the linkages come with the motor or not?

 

where did you get your cardone regulator from also if you dont mind me asking

 

There is a gear in the motor that turns the linkage. So I wasn't sure which one was stripped so I replaced both.

Got it from parts train- PartsTrain.com - Hard to Find Auto Parts and Truck Parts - Window Regulator - For 1992 Ford F-250 XLT Lariat 8 Cyl 7.3L

 

gotcha thanks man

 

If the motor is spinning but the window doesn't move it sounds like you need new gear plugs. There are 3 little round plugs inside the regulator that crumble into bits. You can pick them up at most auto parts stores for about $8. You will have to remove the motor to replace them but it's cheaper than a whole new motor. I replaced mine last year.

 

thanks syco ill have to look into that

 

What Syco said. Only may I add that you don't necessarily need to buy new dowels , instead you can use just regular 1/4" hex nuts - you need 6 per motor assembly, as you stack them two-high where there was a single dowel. The plastic dowels are a safety item, if the window glass meets high resistance when going up (such as while attempting to crush someone's arm or neck) the dowels will slip and prevent causing a serious injury to the victim. When you use steel nuts you lose this feature, the motor will keep moving the window till something breaks, and from my experience with this setup my bet would be the person's limb will give before the glass or the motor or the linkage - not a concern for me as I have a regular cab truck and no children or dogs who could get trapped by the window, but for people with crew-cab trucks this may potentially become an issue...

 

yeah i too have the single cab and wont have to worry bout kids for a while ill have to tear it apart this weekend and see what im workin with

 

Just a heads-up, if the motor has never been replaced you'll have to drill holes and also grind a slot in the inboard sheetmetal skin of the door. Basically the motor assembly is held to the window regulator assembly with three bolts, the front bolt you can get with a wrench but the top and the bottom ones are buried but there are small dimples as if from a punch in the sheetmetal that hides them - you use these dimples for centering your drill and go to town, a 1/2" hole allows you to freely insert a 5/16" or 8mm 1/4-drive socket and reach the offending bolts, the front bolt you can fight with the wrench but I just made a slot over it and used socket there as well. Why the factory didn't put holes there I dunno, they took the time to make the dimples and there are tons of other holes already cut in the skin so why not make just three more is beyond me...

 

thanks bud for the heads up!

 

NP I actually may be replacing my passenger-side motor soon, being a '94 door the motor is much newer than the one in my driver-side door (which came from the rear door of an '88 Lincoln) and the dowels inside it are in perfect shape but it's a bit slow while going up, slower than the driver-side motor at least. I still have the old motor (which originally came from the other rear door of the same Lincoln) and if I find the motivation to swap it in I'll take some pics to show ya where the holes and the slot are.

 

thanks man id appreciate it... i was thinkin tho i know its cheaper to fix it but if i just replace the motor and regulator now maybe i can get another 15 or so years out of it

 

The regulator doesn't go bad, it's the oldschool style with all heavy-gauge stamped steel with no cables and plastic guides - actually I was very pleased to find that my friend's '97 Blazer uses the same setup, instead of the failure prone cable and pulleys mechanism. As for the motor itself, well like I said the ones that I use are 22 years old, it just depends on how much use they actually saw - rear windows of fullsize Ford passenger cars with A/C hardly ever get used Also the new replacement motors are a hit or miss, some work good and some are just junk - which is still better than the door lock actuators, those are all mostly junk IMHO, lol. So for the time being I'd say just fix what you got for cheap and spend your money on something else the truck may need soon (brakes or tires or ball joints, etc.) and that is more vital than a power window.