So the way Im seeing it you Have a Bad ICP sensor and the Truck wouldnt start

So then did you crank so Much That Now the STARTER IS BURNED UP????????????

How much have you cranked on it???

And Yes that code/DTC would keep it from starting

 

That tellls me you have a module(s) offline.

That just tells me your DLC is powered up, but your batteries are weak.

Did you get your starter issue resolved? I would get your betteries charged back up, first and foremost before you attack anything else.

 

either the pcm or the i/c is off line and it would be the cause for only one termanating resister showing up on the network. it can be casued by any moduel on the high speed can buss. just going to have to disconnect every think on the buss and retest. if its still at 120ohms then disconnect pcm and ic and retest for 0 ohms. plucg them back in one at a time and retest to isolate which one.
man I hope this makes sence

 

I do not drive the truck, my wife does.

She told me that she would crank it for up to 15 minutes until it fires, including the day it died. On that day she drove it for 10 or so miles, parked it for ten or so minutes. Upon returning, it would not crank.

This truck is driven once or twice a week (if even that) to run short errands, the longest of which is forty or so miles round trip.

When you say the code/TDC would keep it from starting, do you imply not cranking or cranking but not starting!?

On a side note, does any of you have an opinion on the starters sold on eBay for a 100 or so dollars!?
The FORD genuine part sells for several hundred dollars.

Does any of you know of a good quality starter that can be had for a reasonable amount!?

 

OEM is probably the Best for a Starter

Not to Many starters come threw FTE that are Bad so OEM Starters are Reliable units

yours sounds like it was cranked so muck that it burned up

Classic case of one Problem Leads to other Problems if not addressed soon

Your HPO problems lead to starter meltdown

 

+1 .

 

there are no reasonable amounts.

a $100 starter is a core, that they opened up, emery clothed the armature,
threw the armature on a "growler" to see if it had continuity, and put it
back together with new brushes.

most likely it'll last a few months.

excessive cranking (more than 30 seconds) heats the commutator up
cherry red, as you can measure a couple hundred amps flowing thru
the brushes.

the commutator gets scored and burned away, as do the brushes.

+1 on needing a new starter, and fixing the hard start before you
burn out the new starter. suggest OEM, not a cheese whiz can with
a sprocket on it, bought from some guy in Joisey.

 

What do you guys think of the allegedly rebuilt Motorcraft starters at O'reilly and NAPA?

NAPA has a new Motorcraft as well, but for $350.99 plus a $100 core charge as opposed to 239 plus $35 CC for the rebuilt.

If ALL rebuilders are as described in the post above, why would vendors keep on selling rebuilds and why would customers keep on buying them?

 

Brand new OEM starter direct from Tousley Ford online for you;

2003 FORD F-350 SUPER DUTY Parts - Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Guaranteed to be every bit as rugged as the one that just went through 15 minute crank times while your wifey tried to start the truck. The cheapie guys have their place as well..... if I was going to sell my truck but it had a starter that needed to be replaced... than sure, something that will last a few months is fine cuz it's going to save me a few hundred $$$ and become someone elses problem after the fact. However, if I plan to keep the truck and want reliability for years to come, than price is not an option for dependability. Just my opinion.

 

On another note though.... I would be telling my wifey.... no more 15 minute crank times or the next starter bill is on her! lol

 

Rebuilt parts from Parts **** store just tend to Fail Sooner and more often

Heres a Classic example
My car has a Cheap Oreily alternator and about 1 time a Year it Dies no Biggie Just my Time to change Plus its not like our 6.0L Trucks

With our trucks you dont want a cheap alternator because if it like my car shure I can change it but with a 6.0L it Stresses the FICM and other electronics out. So in the end the Savings isnt worth the cost of All the CARNAGE continual alternator failer will cause if the FICM Dies and or Injectors
So in this Case Might as well Go and get a Good DC Power alternator thats WAY Overbuilt and not ever Worrey about it Money ahead to spend extra on this

A Starter is a Touch Diff you may get a Good One or it may fail every so often so Only out the Time for you to change it and the inconveinence of a Dead Truck somewhere

 

My 6.0 had a bad FICM. Put my dads in took it to get programmed they told me they can't get a signal. Also said that I didn't need to have it programmed bc the FICM should work since they are the same trucks. Said change the PCM I did that. Still nothing. Can't read codes or any thing . Any ideas???

 

Please start a new thread.

 

Turn key over and nothing. Any suggestions on where to start.

 

Yes a new thread of your very own.
Next check battery voltage.