Under bed gas tank?
#1
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#6
(its hard to cut a hole in a finished fender for sure!!)..
#7
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#8
also, the 1970 20 gallon tank filler neck is slightly off center to the passenger side, while the 67-69 16 gallon tank filler neck is centered.
and as Julie noted, make sure you understand the gauge/sender matching requirements.. I had to cut a hole in the tank for the generic 240->33 ohm sender to match my gauges.
the mustang gauges of this vintage are 70-0 ohm.
this is one area where you have to plan multiple things at once to get it right.
and of course, IF you have stuff in the bed, AND need to get gas.. it can be a NOT fun experience..
I tried the rectangular filler access panel from Midfifty, that fits between the bed slats, but it was too small for my big hands to get the gas cap off..
Sam
and as Julie noted, make sure you understand the gauge/sender matching requirements.. I had to cut a hole in the tank for the generic 240->33 ohm sender to match my gauges.
the mustang gauges of this vintage are 70-0 ohm.
this is one area where you have to plan multiple things at once to get it right.
and of course, IF you have stuff in the bed, AND need to get gas.. it can be a NOT fun experience..
I tried the rectangular filler access panel from Midfifty, that fits between the bed slats, but it was too small for my big hands to get the gas cap off..
Sam
#11
Yes,....... to all of the above!
So, I kind of came up with a solution to the centre filler offset 20 gal tank (maybe).
Canadian production f1’s have narrower boards and thus an extra one. The kits are all for US production including the number of metal strips. (could buy a extra strip if I wasn’t so cheap) So, my plan at the moment (subject to many changes) is to go with one less board (same as USA) but so that I don’t have to re-drill all the holes in the cross member I’m going to use the narrow Canadian size except for the middle one and by doing this will be able to use a sheet of plywood cut into planks and dado-ed and the gap between the boards will make up for the plywood not being wide enough.
The centre plank / board will be double width and the offset gas door will look a little less goofy. Could be done on a USA f1 as well.
So, I kind of came up with a solution to the centre filler offset 20 gal tank (maybe).
Canadian production f1’s have narrower boards and thus an extra one. The kits are all for US production including the number of metal strips. (could buy a extra strip if I wasn’t so cheap) So, my plan at the moment (subject to many changes) is to go with one less board (same as USA) but so that I don’t have to re-drill all the holes in the cross member I’m going to use the narrow Canadian size except for the middle one and by doing this will be able to use a sheet of plywood cut into planks and dado-ed and the gap between the boards will make up for the plywood not being wide enough.
The centre plank / board will be double width and the offset gas door will look a little less goofy. Could be done on a USA f1 as well.
#12
Old F1, aren't you concerned about the plywood delaminating due to moisture and time? Even if you do a good job sealing the edges I'd have to imagine even high quality plywood is going to eventually delaminate compared to solid planks of hardwood.
Probably not an issue if you can find some nice looking marine grade plywood, but here in the Northwest that'd be more costly (assuming you could even get it) than a bunch of hardwood planks.
Probably not an issue if you can find some nice looking marine grade plywood, but here in the Northwest that'd be more costly (assuming you could even get it) than a bunch of hardwood planks.
#13
Yep, it might delaminate, but the plan is to use marine grade and Varathane the heck out of it. I live in a semiarid climate with indoor storage and its going to be an unpainted semi work truck for fun which might last longer then me.
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mustang tank.jpg