History
Bought an 84 4x4 with the 6.9 but I have been unable to start it. The person I bought it from says that the motor ran strong before this mechanic tinkered with it. I would like to get the motor running to see how strong it really is but I don’t want to spend lost of money (don’t want to buy an injector pump) because I can pull my motor from my 87 and do a swap. But what if this motor is in better shape? Then I won’t have to swap.

What I have done so far.
Made sure that the glow plug system is working. Had to replace all plugs. Thanks David85 for the 10 second rule. As it is I did cook one plug, but everything is working now and that plug will be replaced this afternoon. For some reason the controller started working this morning. Probably a dirty connection. I am suspecting the injector pump and might swap the pump from my other truck. But I did try squirting WD40 down the air intake and turning it over but not even a bark from the motor. As I am typing this I have plugged the block heater in even though it is 60 outside. Batteries are all charged up and the motor turns over pretty well. Diesel is coming out of the fuel filter output fitting in what I think is sufficient quantities.

Where do I go from here?
Should I do a compression test? Could I use my gas engine compression guage? It goes up to 300 lbs. It looks like the intake manifold has been removed including the housing for the IP gear. Could the timing marks not be lined up? I don’t want to pull the IP from my running truck except as a last resort. All suggestions would be appreciated. I would like to be able to determine the condition of this engine before I do an engine swap. Should I get an IP from the wreckers?

 

have you tried bleeding the lines? crack 3 or so injectors about 1/2 turn or so enough for fuel to come out and crank it over for 5-10 seconds and check to see if fuel has came out of them if so tighten them up and start it.im guessing there is air in the lines i once had this same issue.if the mechanic opened up the fuel system at all this could be your only issue

 

If the IP gear housing has been removed, the IP drive gear may have also been removed.

If the IP drive gear is not in time with the cam and crank gears, the injection event may be happening at the wrong time.

And that could be the reason it is not starting.

 

use a mirror or shiny butter knife to see the timing marks for proper alignment through the front access cover.

 

No way to see the timing mark with anything through the access cover.

Butter knife between the cam gear and timing gear cover plate with the IP drive gear cover removed is hard at best.

 

Thanks for the replies. Today I am going to install some clear plastic tubing and check for air leaks. Will keep everyone posted.

 

Here are the compression numbers:

1 - 360
2 - 400
3 - 360
4 - 420
5 - 340
6 - 420
7 - 380
8 - 380

This motor should run (I think). I am going for the timing marks on the IP gear. The only reason I am checking this is because there is blue silicone underneath the housing so someone must have gone in there.

 

My 85 didn't want to do anything until I towed it (T19 trans). Fired up after about 100 yds of spinning. This was after my electric fuel pump had been run for about 30 minutes. Temperature was about 80*. It would not make noise with ether.

GeneO

PS. Sorry about your burning out your unregulated GP.

 

I was lucky, only burnt one glow plug after replacing them all. They were all burnt when I bought the truck. Glow plug system works good now, but I don't trust it, I count. I think that the contacts on top of the controller were dirty. Switching over to the 87+ controller is on my to do list.

Can't see the marks to line up the IP gear. I think that the water pump has to come off now. My buddy says to use a center punch and mark the correct tooth on the top of the tooth with a dot in case there is a next time.

 

There is no reason to unmesh the timing gears unless you are tearing the engine down.

What happens is people remove the IP the wrong way, and then are at a loss for whty the engine won't start.

I know some of the service manuals have the wrong procedure for removing the IP in them, Chilton's has it wrong in theirs.

The four bolts holding the IP drive cover in place should not be removed.

The access plate on the front of the cover should be pulled.
The remove the three 5/16" 12 point bolts that hold the IP drive gear onto the IP drive shaft.
The remove the 3 nuts that hold the IP to the IP drive gear cover.
With the injection lines loose at the injectors, the fuel supply and return lines unhooked and the throttle cable removed, you can lift the entire IP and injectrion line assembly out in one piece on a NA engine.

Hard gear, I think I would skip trying to mark it with a center punch.
You may have more problems if you try.

 

I hear you Dave about the IP cover, but someone had already pulled it and it does not look like the timing cover was pulled so I am going to pull the timing cover and line upthe marks. Not knowing the history of this used vehicle, the blue silicone under the IP cover, fair compression and no start send me in this direction. Of course it can still be the Injector Pump but before I spend the big bucks on this item, I want to make sure that the gears are lined up.

 

Its alive!

After taking off the timing cover and making sure that the gears were aligned properly and after some serious bleeding of air, the motor started up right away. Thanks everyone for your help and interest. Next problem, another thread will be the dip stick. Thanks again.

 

For thread completion, was the timing off??

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

I am not 100% sure, but my gut tells me yes. I made the same mistake as the person before me by pulling the IP gear so I really can't tell if the timing gears were really out. There is no way you can reset it without removing the timing cover (imo) and the cover had showed no signs of removal. Once lined up, with extensive bleeding of air from the injector lines, the motor fired right up and has been firing right up with no problem. I set the IP pump with the static marks. Dynamic timing will come later. I am very happy. The motor sounds strong. Thanks for asking. Always willing to oblige. Everyone here is a great help.

 

Thank you.

Glad it's running strong.

The IP can be removed and installed without messing the gear timing up, they still need to have the timing adjusted.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~