Just wondering if anything can be done with this block. I have no idea how long it sat without the heads on.

 

JEEZE! I guess anything is possible, but with the valves being broken off like that, did it slip time? That would explain why they took heads off. I think youd be better off finding another Flathead. Fairly common.

 

I'm assuming the first pic is a shadow, and not part of the casting broke off on top?

 

Hey Colin, not knowing very much about flatties, which is just the way I like it, I have to ask why you needed to rebuild it? Are flat blocks getting hard to find, you could spend a ton of money just to find out that the block is scrap. I’m going to PM you a cdn website for rodders but there are some flat guys there.

 

Havi,
i think that is the timing cover sitting on top of the intake valley.

 

Yes that is the timing cover on top. As for the motor I was just wondering because I haven't found any cracks yet. The valves have been coming out pretty easy but the pistons take a bit to get out. I have been soaking them for a day and then tapping them out.

Havi, I still have to get you some pics of the 66 yet. I haven't forgatten.

 

Being open is probably better than being sealed up with water inside. Any chance it froze? Take a look around the pan rail near the center main bearing web. What I see looks like it would clean up pretty easily, and unless it's already over Std., you can always bore it 60 thou -- not much won't clean up at that! But of course you'd want to check for cracks first.

 

Ditto on the checking for cracks first. Once it's completely torn down, run the block into a machine shop familiar with flatheads and their common cracks. Have them hot tank it and then MagnaFlux it to check for cracks. You won't know the story until then. In addition to the spots that Ross mentioned, another common place is between valve seats and the cylinder. Those are considered fatal. They can be repaired, but the cost exceeds that of a good replacement block. Another common crack is between the water ports in the deck and head bolt holes. It's usually the two locations on either deck where the port is only about 1/2" from the bolt hole. Those are no big deal. Have the head bolt hole heli-coiled and forget them.

On another note - it looks like the exhaust valve seat on #6 is trying to walk out of the block. Have the machine shop check all your seats over closely also. If it needs a bunch of seats cut out and replaced, the pricetag for machine work can creep up quickly. As was already mentioned, these blocks aren't hard to find. It's often less expensive to just find a better block if one needs a ton of work to get it square again.

 

One other thing to consider is if there is any deep rust pits or pitting in the cylinder walls. (deep enough that it wouldn't clean up?)

I found a flathead block like that out in a farmers field sitting on a hay wagon (only one head had been removed and didn't look quite as rusty as yours)
I payed the farmer $25 for it and had fun tearing it apart over the next 2 weeks! I wouldn't bother with soaking the pistons. Also chances are that none of the internals, Crank, rods etc will be any good with that much rust. just sawzall (about a 2.5" holesaw) the tops of the pistons out and sawzall the side of pistons, Very Careful not to cut into the cylinder walls and then use a chisel to break the pistons out.

most of all have fun and if it gets tough get a bigger hammer! You might need it.

Oh ya the one I took apart was a good rebuildable block and right now it's got a new life in someones project.

cheers

Josh

 

Thanks for all the replys you have anwsered all my questions and then some. I will continue to tear down the motor. If nothing else, just for fun.