Got out today and got this done.

There's a few wires to relocate, two to remove, and one to wire in. Not hard to do with this info and the correct pinouts (shown below).

First off, this is on my '93 E-150 with a 92 or 93 F150/Bronco Cluster w/ Tach.



Ver 1.2
The pins mentioned are the ones that are changed, the ones that are not mentioned, stay the same. These are on the '93 Van.

Each harness has 14 pins, 7 on each side and they are numbered. This is what needs to be changed to make the new cluster w/ tach work properly. Note: my van has no extra warnings lights outside of the usual.

Brown/Black Harness:
pin 5 - move in pin 6 from gray harness (pin 5 was empty)
pin 9 - tach signal input from tan/yellow coil wire (*remove orange/blk wire. [Pinout says it's empty, but mine wasn't, neither was another I saw a pic of here.])
pin 10 - move to pin 12
pin 11 - move to pin 13
pin 12 - remove and leave loose & tape up for protection for 6 cylinder. Move to pin 10 for V8.
pin 14 - move out to pin 1 gray harness

Gray Harness
pin 1 - move in pin 14 from brown/black harness (pin 1 was empty)
pin 3 - move to pin 2 (pin 2 was empty)
pin 5 - move to pin 3
pin 6 - move out to pin 5 brown/black harness

Move the Slosh Module from your old cluster to the new. On the tach'd cluster it's housed on the opposite side.

Pic courtesy of www.samantha.cc


*The orange/blk wire that I remove, I snipped it off, added the wire running from the coil's tan/yellow wire to it and used it as the tach signal input. (Pin 9 brown/black harness.)

I tapped into the tan/yellow wire at the coil and ran it up into the cab through the existing hole that was there for the heater control valve cable. As you can see in my cheap phone pics I housed my wire in some conduit. Red arrow my wire, green arrow the heater control valve cable. Views are from inside the cab with the doghouse off.





To keep your mileage and the F-150/Bronco Speedo - cause it looks better and matches... Remove all the gold screws to remove the lens and bezel, then gently pull up on the gauges to remove them to get to the speedo and PSOM, which has to come out last.



When you get to the speedo, simply pull it up (nothing's holding it down), flip it over and there you have the PSOM. Remove the ribbon cable by pulling up on the white rectangle ring letting the ribbon slip out. Remove the three torx-10 screws and the PSOM will pull off with a little effort. Put your old PSOM in place and reverse the procedure to get it back together.





Put it all back together, make sure all warning lamps and gauges work like they did before and you are done.



No tach Pinout (Gray)


No tach Pinout (Brown/Black)


New Cluster w/ Tach Pinout


Good Luck, God Bless
FF
Psalm 121

 

thats neat you put a newer cluster then your current in? would this be possible with an 88 style to upgrade?

 

That I'm not certain of, but it's probable.

 

Very impressive. To me that looks like some serious work.

 

It's not as bad as it looks. All the hard work is done... instructed above.
The hardest part is getting the cluster and that's not hard.

 

Instructions revised.

 

Cool. I'd like to do this to my '98.

Any ideas on the speedometer needle bouncing on my '92?

I changed cluster/ speed sender on dif.. and it still bounces at highway speed.

Funny thing noted is when you let off on gas pedal, the needle runs true.......

Thanks, John ( others, I'm sure)

 

When you changed the cluster did you keep your old PSOM?

 

You said that you put the anti-slosh module in the tach cluster.
On non anti-slosh clusters the fuel input trace loops where the anti-slosh module goes.
Did you cut this trace?
Without cutting the trace I do not see how the anti-slosh module would do anything.
Was this loop cut on the old van cluster that you took the anti-slosh moudle out of?

 

Bill,
I did not cut it and that's probably why it didn't seem to work. I didn't mind cause I had a 91 Caprice wagon that made me used to the needle moving around a little. Though I see what you mean after looking a Samantha's pics, I'll check it out after I put my radio in today.

FF

 

That didn't work, all it did was peg the fuel gauge way past F, with or without the module.

My guess is this cluster is suppose to use a different "Slosh Module".

I can live with the minor needle movement.

 

Gauge passed full is an open circuit from the sender.
Was the module making good contact?

 

I'm positive it was.

 

Found this old thread, gave the cluster swap a try. Probably should have gone with an aftermarket tach. Ran into some issues, any thoughts? I hate to be this close to success, and give up now.

Installation:
95 E-150 Chateau 5.8

Donor:
95 F-250 gas cluster with tach

-Followed pin swap procedures above
-Added dedicated tach line from coil using oem pin from donor
-Keep original Speedo and PSOM
-used donor backplate, fuel, oil, volts, and temp gauges.

Results:
Tach, speedo, temp, volts (partially), oil gauges work fine, all indicator lights work as well.

Issues:
-Fuel gauge reads zero. (old one worked fine).
Used anti-slosh module from my van, cut the trace on the donor back plate. Moved the yellow wire to with tach setup. note, did install anti slosh before discovering fuel trace to be cut. (damage here?) also the donor fuel gauge pegged out without module, and before trace was cut.
-When parking brake is actuated, voltage gauge drops, and alternator stops charging. Works fine otherwise, This is a mystery as well.

Read all the truck pinout diagrams posted here. Anybody have a 95 E-150 cluster pinout they could post?

I'm considering I just have a bad donor cluster, as I have reviewed the wiring multiple times and can't find an issue. I'm sure I've done something wrong here or my particular option package on this van isn't happy with the truck cluster.

Thanks for looking.

David

 

1995 E150 C232:


1995 E150 C233:


/