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The primary symptom of water pump failure is leaking out the weep hole (bearing/seal failure). Only in EXTEREMELY high mileage vehicles have I heard of the impeller vanes "grinding" off. It sounds like you're having a problem with heat dissapation. Change the thermostat then you may wanna have the radiator rotted out or replaced. After eliminating the basics then you may wanna start looking more in depth at you motor. Good Luck.
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2006 F-250 XLT CC FX4 6.0L DI Turbo Diesel
Mods: Dieselsite Coolant Filter, 4" Turbo-back off road MBRP exhaust, Blue FP spring, Updated STC Fitting, Updated Turbo Feed & Drain Lines
1979 F-150 Custom (Krylon Edition) 4x4 351M-4V/BW T-18
Sold: 1996 F-150 5.0L 2WD Eddie Bauer / 2001 F-150 4x4 5.4L CC Lariat / 2005 Mustang GT
The primary symptom of water pump failure is leaking out the weep hole (bearing/seal failure). Only in EXTEREMELY high mileage vehicles have I heard of the impeller vanes "grinding" off. It sounds like you're having a problem with heat dissapation. Change the thermostat then you may wanna have the radiator rotted out or replaced. After eliminating the basics then you may wanna start looking more in depth at you motor. Good Luck.
There are quite a few cases of the early 6.0L water pumps breaking off their plastic fins or the entire impellor coming off.
I think a coolant system pressure is the best test. I am just now considering the best place to get the coolant pressure reading so I can get some data. The easiest place is on my coolant filter, but that is at the end of the line. The best place is probably at the block plug - I just do not want to drain my system completely (at least not so soon after flushing it).
thanks Mark, that's the deal with me ,I don't have a coolant filter yet (that was going to be next) + I just did all this work & a flush also, but if the pump is bad the flush probably didn't do much anyway.
i guess it's back to the dealer sometime this week
thanks Mark, that's the deal with me ,I don't have a coolant filter yet (that was going to be next) + I just did all this work & a flush also, but if the pump is bad the flush probably didn't do much anyway.
i guess it's back to the dealer sometime this week
If you replace the water pump go to the 05 pump. It is improved, larger impellers, over the early ones. You will have to change the timing cover behind it also.
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"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, 4 X 2, Lariat, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, Ford fuel press. spring upgrade and ScanGauge ll. S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
2007 FHLP H.D. Road King
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k dry weight, 31'
173rd Abn. RVN.
yeah, I read about the improved 05 pump in some older threads it just makes me to have to tear the truck down that far again after it was done just days ago
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(early) 03 F-250 6.0 CCLB FX4, arp's, not tuned, 4"mbrp, cat/muff delete, edge insight w/pyro, bulletproof egr, high idle, zoodad,onboard air, rear bags, B&W gooseneck hitch, pro comp 2.5" level kit,1500w inverter, 10"dvd, back up camera, 150,000 miles
There are quite a few cases of the early 6.0L water pumps breaking off their plastic fins or the entire impellor coming off.
I think a coolant system pressure is the best test. I am just now considering the best place to get the coolant pressure reading so I can get some data. The easiest place is on my coolant filter, but that is at the end of the line. The best place is probably at the block plug - I just do not want to drain my system completely (at least not so soon after flushing it).
get it at the factory sugested testing location. T into the line from the manifold to the degas jug.
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Former Ford Senior master tech, gas and diesel.1992-2012
ASE Master Tech, L1 certified.
2006 f250 cc swb fx4 6.0
mods arp,egr delete, tuned, 91 gallon RDS fuel tank.
im going a little slow tonight for some reason and not following. System pressure is system pressure. now if you want to test flow thats something different.
the whole idea about a cooling system is to equalize pressure threw the system to maintain even temp wich in theory will reduce localized boiling.
following me.... I am following you?
__________________
Former Ford Senior master tech, gas and diesel.1992-2012
ASE Master Tech, L1 certified.
2006 f250 cc swb fx4 6.0
mods arp,egr delete, tuned, 91 gallon RDS fuel tank.
im going a little slow tonight for some reason and not following. System pressure is system pressure. now if you want to test flow thats something different.
the whole idea about a cooling system is to equalize pressure threw the system to maintain even temp wich in theory will reduce localized boiling.
following me.... I am following you?
I agree to an extent. Unless the passageways for the coolant are quite large, there is always a back pressure from friction losses (that is directly related to flow). The highest pressure from the pump will be at the discharge point. If you take a pressure reading at a point that is in the downstream piping, you may not know if you have pressure loss issues (plugging) or pump discharge pressure issues (head).
I guess that flow would be a better test, but not so easily monitored.
Edit - after a long day at work, I probably should wait til tomorrow to think this hard !!
OK now Im with you. I would say tap the bottom tank and install but try this out to test the theory. get the engine up to operating temp 185 -212 and use a pyrometer to pick the best spot to tap into.
besides a pyrometer is a great tools to have.
__________________
Former Ford Senior master tech, gas and diesel.1992-2012
ASE Master Tech, L1 certified.
2006 f250 cc swb fx4 6.0
mods arp,egr delete, tuned, 91 gallon RDS fuel tank.
OK now Im with you. I would say tap the bottom tank and install but try this out to test the theory. get the engine up to operating temp 185 -212 and use a pyrometer to pick the best spot to tap into.
besides a pyrometer is a great tools to have.
I just purchased an infrared pyrometer. It is cool! Thanks for the tip again.
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water pump failure???
to have to tear the truck down that far again after it was done just days ago
