guages
#4
Agree.
Ideally before your first mod. Is the only way to monitor safetly your engine and dont destroy it. They are not hard to install.
#5
you can do some slight mods without doing guages. if you have an auto and didn't want to get guages yet then i'd do the 6637 intake, exhaust, FPR shim, tranny cooler, and shift kit without doing guages, but i wouldn't do any fuel enhancing mods like chips, injectors, or the like with out having a trans temp, pyro, and boost guage. once you do a chip then your EGT's can start getting hot when towing and you can risk melting a piston if the EGT's get to 1200* for more than like 5-8 seconds. i certainly would let it stay over that for more than that, but i'm unsure how long it would actually take to melt a piston at 1200* and always good to remember at higher temps it takes less time to melt a piston. also with added power the trans sees more stress thus more heat so mods are needed to help it out and a guage is needed to make sure your not overheating it.
#6
yea i already have the riffraff 6637 kit and plan on doing the 4" tymar strait pipe and using this tranny cooler http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=205 . is the FPR shim where you modify the little piece of metal on the gas pedal? and once i get my tax return im hoping to put in some beans stage I's and then a PHP chip and Dom 66 turbo. so i might need some gauges eventaully i guess. i might give clay a shout one of these days for some isspro ev2's.
#7
yea i already have the riffraff 6637 kit and plan on doing the 4" tymar strait pipe and using this tranny cooler http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=205 . is the FPR shim where you modify the little piece of metal on the gas pedal? and once i get my tax return im hoping to put in some beans stage I's and then a PHP chip and Dom 66 turbo. so i might need some gauges eventaully i guess. i might give clay a shout one of these days for some isspro ev2's.
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#8
#10
Gauges
If you decide to install gauges I would suggest the following: Since most gauges work on a change in resistance, I would measure ohms when the sensors are first installed at a cold temperature. Reason for doing this is to have a baseline for an easy check of the sensor performance.
I took a 10,430 mile trip in the Spring carrying a very heavy pickup camper (13,000 lbs total weight.) without any noticeable over heating of my tranny fluid. In November I took a trip with only a light shell on my bed and any speed over 62 mph my gauge would show a temp approaching 230 degrees until I slowed down. I thought I had a slipping torque converter and had planned for an expensive overhaul. As part of my diagnosis, I contacted the supplier of my gauge and sensor who told me that at 60 degrees my sensor should show 400 ohms of resistance. When measured at 70 degrees the sensor had a resistance of 1040 ohms. Happily the sensor had failed and was the cause of my concern.
pbgsho2
I took a 10,430 mile trip in the Spring carrying a very heavy pickup camper (13,000 lbs total weight.) without any noticeable over heating of my tranny fluid. In November I took a trip with only a light shell on my bed and any speed over 62 mph my gauge would show a temp approaching 230 degrees until I slowed down. I thought I had a slipping torque converter and had planned for an expensive overhaul. As part of my diagnosis, I contacted the supplier of my gauge and sensor who told me that at 60 degrees my sensor should show 400 ohms of resistance. When measured at 70 degrees the sensor had a resistance of 1040 ohms. Happily the sensor had failed and was the cause of my concern.
pbgsho2