Has anyone attempted one of these? I've done some online research and the closest thing I can find are 2 or 3 attempts on Toyota 4 runners, but none for a real truck.

From what I gather there are basically 3 soft toppers out there.

1. Best Top - ~$850 shipped
2. Softtopper - ~$700 shipped
3. Canback - over $1500

The first two are very similar, fold down type, essentially soft tops while the canback is more of a permanent soft top that does not fold down. Though it is nice that the canback can have a roof rack, the fact that it is not collapsable really takes away almost all of the benefit of having a soft topper.

Now looking at these things, there is really not a whole lot to them, a fairly basic frame with a simple cover and in drafting up my own design based loosely off of both of them (and my Jeep's Best Top soft top) I've come up with a parts list of right around $100 with the bulk of the cost being the outdoor fabric I obtained at $70 shipped for 10 yards.

For the frame design I'm using two bed length runners of aluminum channel which are clamped into the stake holes using a small metal plate with a nut welded to it which goes in the stake hole, a hole in the center of the channel has a bolt go through that tightening it down to the bedrail with a thin strip of rubber inbetween as a weather seal. Bolted to this will be the frame which is to be formed out of 1/2 EMT. The frame is very simple, essentially just 4 U shaped structures, 2 large, 2 small. The large ones bolt into the aluminum frame, and the small ones form an x-shape connecting the larger ones, just like the softtopper design.

The actual fabric top will snap into the aluminum channel all the way down each side of the bed with velcro attaching it to either corner from top to bottom, so that it can be undone and rolled up. At the rear of the topper, the "frame" will be the outdoor fabric, with a window sewn in. To attach to the tailgate, rather than stick on velcro like the softtopper brand, I was thinking I'd sew a strong magnetic strip across the base of it. At the front between the cab and the "shell" a roll up window like the rear would exist.

So that's basically it, fishing for feedback/thoughts or experience on the topic.

I've got the fabric and some of the parts, I start frame construction tomorrow after work. I'll just keep adding to this thread as I make progress... or screw things up lol.

 

Well my camera battery is dead so I'll have to get pictures tomorrow, but I started assembly of the hardware mounting system. I'm using 8' aluminum channel, 3" wide and 1/8" thick running the length of each bedrail. To secure them, like I described above, I got a piece of 14 gauge bar stock and cut small rectangular plates which I put holes in and welded a nut to the bottom of. These go in the stake holes the long way, then turn to lock into the pocket, a bolt coming through the channel goes into the nut securing the channel to the bedrail.

Right now I don't have an insulation strip in yet, but I will probably add a foam or neoprene layer between the bed and rails. On the front of the bed, I'm using a piece of aluminum angle, backed up to the channel. I'm debating on ways to attach the angle, most likely I'll clamp it from the outside between the bed and cab. It got pretty dark so progress stopped there, next step will be to bend the EMT hoops and test fit them in place.

 

when you say 'outdoor fabric' are you talking 'sunbrella' (acrylic canvas) as used on boat covers .. if so it is not very abrasion resistant and even just the wind getting to it at highway speeds will wear it quickly, plus your DIY stitch job may not be as tight as you'd like and it might 'flutter' causing it to wear even quicker, though I think dupont recently added an abrasion resistant coating to their line, for an added price of course ..

 

I'm using treated heavy Cordura so it should be strong enough, I know from experience it is capable of heavy use and wind shouldn't be a problem for it, I have a few motorcycle jackets made with it. As far as ensuring tightness on the top, I'm using the same idea as my Jeep soft top which is half the concept, but basically opposing bars that will pull downward, essentially in a similar manner a drum is tightened; the top will be constructed in sections, the top piece will be shaped like a tray, with edges that tuck in. In theory of course, we'll see how it goes in practice

It's a really crude drawing, but here's the idea:



Those dark scratches are straps that would pull the long bars down, creating tension across the top, also the drawing doesn't really show it well but the top would curve in just a little at the top, and on either end it would be attached to the top of the frame.

 

Cordura is nylon .. much better than acrylic for your purpose .. it stretches a bit more, but it seems you've got that covered with the 'straps' in your sketch..

I made a tonneau cover once for a ranger (out of sunbrella I had left over form a boat cover I made), ended up having to 're-enforce' the wear points (where the bows held it up) with some nylon strapping (seat belt material) ..

I highly recommend "the new Canvas Worker's Library" by Jim Grant (published by 'sailrite enterprises') to help get the 'details' right as far as your stitchwork goes ..

 

Might want to check at a local awning/canvas shop and see what they would want to do the heavy sewing. Tried some repair work on a pop up camper and the wife wasn't happy after seeing what it did to her machine. Hope it works for you, might give it a try for mine!

 

Thx for the tips guys, I will definitely check out that book and I may look into the awning shop, though I think our sewing machine might be able to handle it. I may test first with a small strip of fabric once I get to that point.

Anyway, this weekend was pretty busy, didn't have a whole lot of time to work on the top but I was able to get in a bit, also my fabric came in Friday so at this point I have everything I need, just need to assemble it.

I was able to make the stake-hole mounts as described above, and bolting the 1/8" channel down was easy forming a rock solid setup. I can grab one of those channels and shake the whole truck without the slightest budge out of them.

Next step will be to bend up the main hoops, test fit and bolt them in.

 

not sure what you have close, but you might look around at the local marina, usually a few biz cards on a bulletin board somewhere ..

if you're gonna try it yourself also look for basting tape, the nylon (or acrylic for that matter) will be 'slippery' and hard to stitch without 'puckering', the tape keeps things even as you go .. see here Seamstick 3/8" Basting Tape for Canvas (50 Yds)

also I suggest using a 'flat felled' seam and plan for your seams to face downwind ..



gives you the idea, look here for the steps ..http://www.backpacking.net/makegear/...latfelled.html

 

also, if you haven't thought of it already, you'll probably want to use some nylon webbing in the edge hems were you plan on putting your snaps, otherwise they might not 'hold' for very long ..Webbing Strapping Sold by the Foot

let me know if you have any questions .. been down this road a few times ..