Horn test - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums



1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Horn test

Reply
 
 
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 01-28-2010, 01:28 PM
Griff52's Avatar
Griff52 Griff52 is offline
Freshman User
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Casco,Maine
Posts: 40
Griff52 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Smile Horn test

Hi all,just finished installing new steering wheel and horn button on the 48,but no toot--toot,ran two wires from battery and still no toot--toot.I have looked all over and found no horn relay,wire from horn button goes directly to wiring harness,is there another way to test the horn? Thanks
Griff
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-28-2010, 05:54 PM
52 Merc's Avatar
52 Merc 52 Merc is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Kennewick, WA
Posts: 6,870
52 Merc has much to be proud of52 Merc has much to be proud of52 Merc has much to be proud of52 Merc has much to be proud of52 Merc has much to be proud of52 Merc has much to be proud of52 Merc has much to be proud of52 Merc has much to be proud of
sfaik, you should be able to run power direct from the battery to the horn, and if it isn't defective, it should honk. I've done it before. Just be sure to use a heavy gauge wire, 'cause a horn draws a lot of amps, and will move some serious juice. Holding too small of a wire will burn you, very quickly.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-28-2010, 06:14 PM
Julies Cool F1 Julies Cool F1 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Poway, Ca.
Posts: 7,641
Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.
Yeah, 52 Merc is right on that, you should be able to ground out the case or bracket for the horn and touch the power hook up VERY briefly.

He's also right about the wire size - should be 10 ga at least.

Here's a couple more things to consider. If you are talking about trumpet horns, they pull and amazing amount of amperage. You MUST ensure that not only do they have a good ground, but the ground is substantial enough to pass the current. If they are hood mounted, this includes the hood being grounded enough.

Eventhough they were designed to be used with 6 volt positive ground, they can be used with 12 volt negative ground with no problem - they're just louder - darn!

If the gauge wire going to the horns either from the relay (which you MUST install to prevent welding your horn button parts together) or from the battery to the relay (via whatever path it takes - through circuit breakers or fuses or ignition switch, etc) is not large enough, there will not be enough current flow to sound the horns.

Also, unless the old harns have been used recently, are clean and lubricated properly, they probably won't sound. There is a blued metal diafram inside that vibrates (its a big DC buzzer) and it wont vibrate if it is rust covered.

Lastly, the trumpet horns were adjustable. If they are dirty or rusty, or the contact points are burned they may need to be filed or adjusted to sound. The procedure is in the shop manual.

I have two sets of them on my 51 and I had to enlarge the power wire from the alternator/ignition switch link up to 8 gauge to get those four to sound.

But, there isn't a little old lady driving her Buick in Rancho Bernardo who will ever be the same since I moved here!

Name:  E Smaller Horns Replaced.jpg
Views: 1379
Size:  80.4 KB

Note how visible the wire is - it's a biggie!

Here's a picture of the Horn Button set up just as a check:

Name:  Horn Button Assembly.JPG
Views: 1793
Size:  221.8 KB

PS: Be careful when touching the wire to the battery. I might be tempted to attach a set of jumper cables to the battery, and connect the grounded cable to the horn body, then touch the power wire to the power stud some distance from the battery to prevent a possible battery explosion or fire - it's gonna be a BIG spark! And don't hold it. No matter how prepared you are for it, it's gonna blair out, vibrate, make brown fog, and make you jump!
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-28-2010, 06:48 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1 ALBUQ F-1 is online now
postin' fool
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 21,751
ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.ALBUQ F-1 has a spectacular reputation.
Why not ground the relay terminal that the horn button connects to first, so you can see if it's the button or the relay/horn end? The horn is grounded thru the bracket to the hood, they get rusty, might be worth checking that too.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-28-2010, 11:37 PM
Ford52F2's Avatar
Ford52F2 Ford52F2 is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 101
Ford52F2 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Here's a good site if you want to rebuild your horn.

How to Restore a Classic Car Horn

It also has an article on a 52 F1 Ford rebuild

SCG Classic Car Restoration: 1952 Ford F1 Pickup Truck Restoration Project

Don't remember how I found this site

Dale
Ford52F2
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-29-2010, 01:52 AM
Julies Cool F1 Julies Cool F1 is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Poway, Ca.
Posts: 7,641
Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.Julies Cool F1 has a great reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Why not ground the relay terminal that the horn button connects to first, so you can see if it's the button or the relay/horn end? The horn is grounded thru the bracket to the hood, they get rusty, might be worth checking that too.
OP stated there was no horn relay installed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Julies Cool F1 View Post
.....

You MUST ensure that not only do they have a good ground, but the ground is substantial enough to pass the current. If they are hood mounted, this includes the hood being grounded enough.

If the gauge wire going to the horns either from the relay (which you MUST install to prevent welding your horn button parts together) !
Just FYI, you need to install a horn relay and you need to check that the horns are properly and adequately grounded. And after that, you need to install a horn relay and make sure the horns are properly and adequately grounded - after installing the horn relay.

But, you can check the actual function of the horns as I described above with the jumper cables in answer to your original question.
Reply With Quote
 
 
Reply

Related Topics
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
A different horn switch GB SISSON 1947 and Older Ford Trucks 11 07-08-2015 11:28 PM
Flashing Wait to Start & Check engine light Supertrey 1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 25 01-13-2014 11:55 PM
1990 351W horn location/relay? lattices2 1978 - 1996 Big Bronco 2 06-03-2010 10:37 PM
how to tone down the alarm chirps expy98 Excursion - King of SUVs 3 02-09-2007 12:39 PM
Mysterious horn tooting DaveMac2Vans Electrical Systems/Wiring 11 07-09-2006 09:14 PM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums >

Tags
1951, 1960s, battery, car, f1, ford, horn, horns, louder, rebuild, steering, testing, truck, wheel, wire

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:46 AM.