replace rear end
#1
replace rear end
Hello all, first time posting. I have a 2004 F250 4x4 V10 115,000 miles, 3.73 gears. Bought it on 05 Dec 2009 from Bill Hood Ford in Hammond LA. Has a loud whine coming from the rear and my new truck mechanic says it's easier to swap the rear end than rebuild it. He told me it's a $300 part and about $800 of labor and taxes. The used rear end is from a similar 2004 F250 (obviously) and has ~83,000 miles. It seems like a lot of miles to me but mechanic says they rarely go out and the previous owner must have towed the crap out of stuff and probably skipped a lot of scheduled maintenance. Ideas of the swap and it's consequences and costs? Thanks to all! Ray
#2
Does not sound right to me. Has he identified the source of the noise? Gears, bearings, wheel bearings? If not, he's just shooting blindly and he knows if he replaces the whole thing he won't ever have to figure it out.
General automotive shops may not be the best place to take differential work. A shop that specializes in that work might be better. Like a place that does a lot of gear swaps.
The would be a real good time to regear that V-10 if that's something that interests you. And if you tow much it should.
General automotive shops may not be the best place to take differential work. A shop that specializes in that work might be better. Like a place that does a lot of gear swaps.
The would be a real good time to regear that V-10 if that's something that interests you. And if you tow much it should.
#3
A whining noise could be the ring and pinion...
but it could be a number of other things as well like Bill said. Bearings, seals, etc..
Just dropping a used axle in isn't the end of the story. Does it have a matching ring and pinion ratio the same as the front axle of your 4x4? If not, you need to pay to have the front regeared or transfer case problems will happen down the road. Also, what are the condition of the brakes on the new used axle? Seems like you'd at minimum want to replace the brakes since it'd be convenitent with the axle out. And the parking brake? It needs to function in order to get a state inspection (if applicable in your state).
A new axle is feasable, however, if your old one has problems with more than just the ring and pinion. It might be time for a 2nd opinion to make sure.
but it could be a number of other things as well like Bill said. Bearings, seals, etc..
Just dropping a used axle in isn't the end of the story. Does it have a matching ring and pinion ratio the same as the front axle of your 4x4? If not, you need to pay to have the front regeared or transfer case problems will happen down the road. Also, what are the condition of the brakes on the new used axle? Seems like you'd at minimum want to replace the brakes since it'd be convenitent with the axle out. And the parking brake? It needs to function in order to get a state inspection (if applicable in your state).
A new axle is feasable, however, if your old one has problems with more than just the ring and pinion. It might be time for a 2nd opinion to make sure.
#4
Thank you for the response, I had the same question; what is making the noise?
We took a test drive around the block and it is noticeable at low speeds and the noise is still present while in motion and the transmission in neutral. He says in order to diagnose the actual problem things would have to be disassembled and it's just best to replace the rear end. This diagnosis is exactly what the sales guy at Bill Hood told me when I bought it. Yes I bought a broken truck for a song so I knew I had to sink some money into it. The sales guy says in about 10,000 miles it would need to be replaced. I have driven it less than 1,000 miles so far and the noise is still the same.
I have replaced the old highway tires with new AT tires (not to stop the noise) so that eliminates tires. I work in IT so my ability to hear an automotive noise and have a clue what it is lies between never and very unlikely. The automotive guy I went to came highly recommended by family and a high school friend who works a local advanced auto, he does quality work at reasonable labor rates. Of course I would rather replace a $100 part and perhaps 2 hours of labor but I can only relay what the mechanic told me.
I will be towing a 17' & 22' boat and perhaps some small/medium utility trailers but overall just to pull the boats. I pull them locally and it's very flat and dry. I have no aspirations to change the gears. The mechanic did mention he does not rebuild rear ends and rarely swaps them as they do not normally go bad so he did mention a specialty shop a few miles away that does that kind of work all the time.
Thanks again, Ray
We took a test drive around the block and it is noticeable at low speeds and the noise is still present while in motion and the transmission in neutral. He says in order to diagnose the actual problem things would have to be disassembled and it's just best to replace the rear end. This diagnosis is exactly what the sales guy at Bill Hood told me when I bought it. Yes I bought a broken truck for a song so I knew I had to sink some money into it. The sales guy says in about 10,000 miles it would need to be replaced. I have driven it less than 1,000 miles so far and the noise is still the same.
I have replaced the old highway tires with new AT tires (not to stop the noise) so that eliminates tires. I work in IT so my ability to hear an automotive noise and have a clue what it is lies between never and very unlikely. The automotive guy I went to came highly recommended by family and a high school friend who works a local advanced auto, he does quality work at reasonable labor rates. Of course I would rather replace a $100 part and perhaps 2 hours of labor but I can only relay what the mechanic told me.
I will be towing a 17' & 22' boat and perhaps some small/medium utility trailers but overall just to pull the boats. I pull them locally and it's very flat and dry. I have no aspirations to change the gears. The mechanic did mention he does not rebuild rear ends and rarely swaps them as they do not normally go bad so he did mention a specialty shop a few miles away that does that kind of work all the time.
Thanks again, Ray
#5
#6
This is the key. He is only offering to do what he knows how to do. Have to give him credit for being honest, that he is in over his head. That other shop he recommended should be your next stop.
#7
A whining noise could be the ring and pinion...
but it could be a number of other things as well like Bill said. Bearings, seals, etc..
Just dropping a used axle in isn't the end of the story. Does it have a matching ring and pinion ratio the same as the front axle of your 4x4? If not, you need to pay to have the front regeared or transfer case problems will happen down the road. Also, what are the condition of the brakes on the new used axle? Seems like you'd at minimum want to replace the brakes since it'd be convenitent with the axle out. And the parking brake? It needs to function in order to get a state inspection (if applicable in your state).
A new axle is feasable, however, if your old one has problems with more than just the ring and pinion. It might be time for a 2nd opinion to make sure.
but it could be a number of other things as well like Bill said. Bearings, seals, etc..
Just dropping a used axle in isn't the end of the story. Does it have a matching ring and pinion ratio the same as the front axle of your 4x4? If not, you need to pay to have the front regeared or transfer case problems will happen down the road. Also, what are the condition of the brakes on the new used axle? Seems like you'd at minimum want to replace the brakes since it'd be convenitent with the axle out. And the parking brake? It needs to function in order to get a state inspection (if applicable in your state).
A new axle is feasable, however, if your old one has problems with more than just the ring and pinion. It might be time for a 2nd opinion to make sure.
Good call about the brakes on the new rear end, makes good sense to me and I will make sure to address that as part of the fee. I told him I did not know the history of the truck when purchased so I wanted him to put it up on a rack and give it a very thorough once over to make sure nothing is missed for scheduled/routine maintenance. This will be done at the same time of the rear end swap so I hope there are no other issues to deal with.
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#8
I've already made arrangements for 02 Feb 2010 to have the work done by the local mechanic so I have some time to have it looked at by other mechanics.
#9
I can see where a swap would be less expensive than replacing a gear set. But you have to wonder about condition of the boneyard axle. Would really suck to get it swapped and then find out this one whined too, or had a bad axle bearing, pinion seal, or whatever. Personally I would have them repair my original.
#10
I can see where a swap would be less expensive than replacing a gear set. But you have to wonder about condition of the boneyard axle. Would really suck to get it swapped and then find out this one whined too, or had a bad axle bearing, pinion seal, or whatever. Personally I would have them repair my original.
I might give the other specialist a try but I have to take off from work and sit all day. I might call them, that's free at least!
Thanks for all your help so far
Ray
#11
#12
Now the hub bearings I eat every 60K.
If it has not been run low, I would look at them first.
Your best bet is to just take it to the shop, that is just where I would start.
#13
My rear end has close to 100K more miles, and it has towed alot. All I have done is check the oil in it and keep it toped off, plus a lube change at 100K.
Now the hub bearings I eat every 60K.
If it has not been run low, I would look at them first.
Your best bet is to just take it to the shop, that is just where I would start.
Now the hub bearings I eat every 60K.
If it has not been run low, I would look at them first.
Your best bet is to just take it to the shop, that is just where I would start.
If the problem lies with gears, bearings or other inside components not easily accessible then at about $85/hour with at least an hour probably 2 then it seems like a gamble with my money to diagnose what's wrong and then I'll have to pay again to have the faulty piece(s) replaced. Seems like a bad video game....
Wish I had more time/tools to perform my own repairs.
#14
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