Crud...I've sprung another leak...looks like a front seam. I just don't trust this tank anymore. It's wet every other week.

I've had the bottom straps down a couple times but it never seemed to move at all. I've seen upper straps in a diagram...is that holding it up?

Can I get this tank out from a creeper on my back?

Also, what do you guys think about the plastic tanks from Bronco Graveyard?

 

Disconect the fuel and emission lines, unplug the sending unit, disconect the fuel filler and vent hoses and drop the two lower straps.
You will probably have to "jimmy" the tank side to side to get the seam past the lower part of the frame, after that it should fall out.
Best to do this with as near an empty tank as possible.
Can't comment on the plastic. I don't have any experience with them.

 

The upper straps are only there to provide a buffer between the top of the tank and the bed. I manhandled mine(19 gal) out by myself. I had to remove the bracket for the spare tire. Also had to remove the hitch receiver because it stuck out beyond the frame about an inch. You will need anything off of the frame to allow enough room to sway the tank back and forth to get it out. Getting at the sending unit plugin was a real treat, also.

 

Thanks...I mainly wanted to know if this was something I could do my self. It sounds reasonably doable from the street. I see no way of getting to the sending unit once it's in, so I'm thing of attaching the pigtail and rubber hose before putting in the new one.

As for the emissions hose, I have an abandoned vacuum hose running down the right frame rail that is cut off at the axle. I wasn't sure if it was for the tank or the axle.

Should this hose run from the tank vent to the charcoal canister?

 

This line is for the evaporative emissions system. It runs from the top of the tank to the charcoal canister.

 

I just changed the rear tank in my 79 yesterday and have a couple tips.

The truck abandoned the evap system on its own years ago (rotted off). When I ordered a new tank, I ordered it for a 79 which has the evap system, not knowing. If you order the tank for a earlier year, they do not have it. The difference in the tank is a hole cut in the top that a rubber grommet and the vent valve sit in. Part stores don't seem to carry a new grommet around here, but LMC has one. Chances are it is in rough shape and you don't want it leaking crap into your new tank.

My truck has a flatbed so it is a little easier to get to, but it is a great idea to put a new hose on the sending unit before installing as it is a PITA to get to once installed. I just cut the old rubber lines instead of trying to remove them with the tank in place. After removing the straps, mine was also stuck. A pry bar against the hitch got it moving in short order.

I don't have any experience with the plastic tanks, but if you seal the inside of the new gas tank and put a good coat of paint on the outside (por-15), the tank will outlast the truck. Tanks will rust from the inside out, so sealing the inside is required.

 

Sorry, that's in-correct.

The Evaporative Emission System was first introducd in 1970, and while not all the trucks have it, it was mandatory here in CA for certain models.

Two examples of dozens:

D5TZ9002B .. Aft Axle Fuel Tank-Steel / Fits 1973/79 F100 & etc Stylesides with Evap Emission.

D8TZ9002M .. Aft Axle Fuel Tank / Fits 1973/79 F100 & etc Stylesides w/o Evap Emission.

Since radiator shops can repair fuel tanks, I wouldn't go thru the expense of replacing a tank...until I had a radiator shop look at it...to see if it's repairable...or not.

Chances are...that it is repairable. The seams on steel tanks can be re-tack welded (as original).

A rubberized coating or rubber bladders are available that fit inside the steel/plastic tanks, which seal the leaks.

The rubber bladder technology dates back to WWII, when US fighter planes had self-sealing fuel tanks.

This is what people have to do with the fuel tanks of gazillions of myriad makes of older cars/trucks...since there are no replacement tanks available, for say...a 1929 Marmon.

If you had tried your local Ford dealers parts department...

F6TZ9B076AA replaced E1FZ9B076B & E1FZ9B076A .. Fuel Vapor Valve Grommet-to Fuel Tank / Available from Ford / Fits: 1974/2010 vehicles.

MSRP: $6.20 // FTE sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $3.35.

Now you know where LMC is buying them from...

 

When I was researching the tanks, I seem the for sale with or without evap system. I know that the tanks must vent somehow. I assumed that previous model years did not have the evap as when I specified 1979, I didn't get a no-evap option.

My new tank cost $109. I see no reason to try to repair an old tank when new tanks are so cheap. You don't have to clean it, and most importantly, fix pin holes in a tank that has already had 30 years of rust. I wouldn't even think of repairing a gas tank unless I couldn't get a replacement or the replacement was high (over $250). I also wouldn't try to fix a leaky radiator when replacements are so cheap.

 

Since Ford used TWENTY different fuel tanks on 1973/79 F100/350's, and all are obsolete...how many of these have been reproduced?

 

Every single one I have ever replaced. The differences between most parts is so minimal, unless you are going for a 100 point restro, it doesn't matter.

You can buy virtually every single part for these trucks reproduced except for the frame and most are available from the local part store. Thanks to LMC and others, parts are really common, easy to find, and reasonable priced. Arguably, not all of the parts are OEM quality (such as many of the replacement body panels), but it is all there and quite usable.

 

I was wondering if my tank had the evap hole since I don't have any Ca. emmissions or even a charcoal canister (that I can find anyway). The diagram I have from Chilton's shows a hose running down the pass side from the tank to canister. I have an abandoned hose running down the drivers side cut off at the axle.

I had wondered if it was a vacuum hose to the axle since I saw one in a pic of someone's frame rebuild and questioned what it was for. I have some kind of nipple on top of my axle w/nothing connected to it.

Anyway, I didn't want to order a tank w/evap hole only to get my old tank down and discover there's no hole. Then I would have to get the grommet and evap elbow to fit in it.

Is there any disadvantage to simply replacing the tank w/ one that has NO hole? Does the tank NEED to vent at the top?

 

the tank vents through the gas cap, the nipple on your axle is a vent you should have a hose on it that runs up to your frame it keeps water out of the axle

 

On average, there are 10,000 individual parts on each one of these trucks...and I can tell you with authority that less than 40% have been reproduced.

If the parts are so EZ to find, why do members constantly ask where such and such can be found?

 

My truck doesn't have ca emissions either, but still has EVAP. On mine, the fuel supply line runs down the driver's frame rail, evap line down passenger to the charcoal canister mounted on the passenger inner fender right below the battery box.

The rear axle (and front if 4x4) will have a vent line with a hose ran up to the bottom of the bed area to prevent water from entering. You will just need to connect a rubber hose to the nipple and put it somewhere up high.

The tank will need to vent somehow, whether it is through the evap or a venting gas cap (old, pre-emission style). I am not sure how the non-evap tanks vent as all of mine have been evap, but it has to have a vent somewhere.

 

The non-evaporative tanks use a vented fuel cap. The one with evap. use a non-vented cap.
The nipple on top of your axle is the axle vent. This has a hose that connects to it then goes up to the frame and is held in place by a clip. It doesn't hook to anything else. This is just a breather to prevent pressure build-up in the axle housing and stop leaks from starting around the seals.