How much material needs to come out? Do I cut just between the cab and tire, or does material need to come out between the tire and tailgate too?

 

I've done this on a chevy and I had to cut it both in front and behind the wheel well. I have several long bed fords here but no short bed for comparison but I would assume you would have to cut both ends just by looking unless you happen to be cutting the CS type bed which already has the wheel well pushed back.

 

you need to take material out from both sides to make it look right not sure how much though

 

i thought the only difference in the ford beds was between the cab and tire, at least thats what all the other threads i've read about it have said

 

I agree with above.

 

i can testify about this,

the previous owner of my truck cut a long box down to make a short box, and the only difference is between the cab and the rear wheel, thus you only have to shorten one end, not two


now the way to do this properly, you have to cut the body skin seam on the front of the bed (end that faces the cab) or possibly drill out the welds and then cut the floor seam that butts up to the front of the box,

then remove the front box wall, then simply get short box length measurements, then shorten the box sides, and floor, also account for a lip in your measurements, as you will need to fold the skin over the front box wall, just as Ford did at the factory, and then drill holes, and spot weld it into place, or simply seam weld it, mind you only do small weld lines, and cool the welds with a wet rag, and space your seams out as you weld the seam up, thus avoiding the metal warping from the heat,

(the pictures below, should give you a idea of where to cut)










the incorrect way is what the previous owner did on my truck, (see picture below)



he cut a section out between the cab and the rear tires, thus there was a seam on the box sides and floor, and he had to hide the seams on the sides once he welded the front to the rest of the box, thus he did a mess of a body job on the box, and we fixed it all, as the box was in very good condition rust wise, but the error he did caused a lot of unneeded body work,

just hope this all helps, and i would hate to see someone make the same mistake the previous owner of my truck made,

also i heard Chevy's beds where trouble, they have to be shortened from the front and rear, thus there double work, who ever said Chebbys where better??? lol lol

-Brent

 

Why not just do what i am. Cut back about 2" from the front of the box. Then cut out the material needed. Then weld the front section of the box back on. No need to fuss with putting it back together in pieces or haveing to bend the lip back over.

 

like the picture what the previous owner did on my truck????

that way causes more body work then is needed, as you then have to hide the welded seam on either side of the box, and there will be a welded seam on the floor of the box, that is why you would do it the way i suggested, and do it right, i know folding the side skins over the front of the box wall may seem like work, but if you want less body work, thus the hassle of folding the skin sides is not as difficult as hiding a welded seam, and in the end a person can do it any way they want, but i would rather do it the way i suggested, as you don't have to worry about lining up and leveling either cut piece together,

also what pieces in my method? the front of the box would be removed in one piece, then you do your cutting at the front of the box, and then reattach the front box wall, and just simply fold the box sides over, (like a flap) then spot weld it back on, its a lot easier than you think it is, compared to your method the previous owner of my truck did,


-Brent

 

Just find a shortie and send me the long one. LOL

 

If you only cut off say 2-3" then not much body work is needed. Yeah you have to do some fill work but its a 30 yr old truck. Not like it will be the only fill work.

I guess my standpoint comes from the fact that im a bodyman and do things differently than the common person in this situation.

 

i think folding the front lip back over with all the compound curves and having it look right with the correct radius would be nearly impossible.
I'm cutting back about six inches and flanging with panel adhesive on mine.

 

X2

Don't cut up a good long bed

 

Ok, thanks. I've not decided on folding the flaps or cutting a section yet, but this definitely makes it a little simpler not to have to go behind the tire. The bumpsides have to cut behind the tire too. This bed isn't that nice, just the best one I have.

 

The inner bed panels havent changed much between 1973-1996.

You can get a 1996 shortbed, and weld new 1973-1979 panels to it, with the 1973-1979 taillamp stakes.

some people find that's a better alternative...

 

Don't forget that the long bed has an extra stake bed pocket in the center that will need to be filled also. There is a lot of work shortening the bed but can be done and can look good if the right person is doing the job.
I would start about 4" from the cab to keep the end in tact, then I would cut out the section needed to shorten it up. a bit more welding and cutting but will look much better.