53 f100 hood adjustments
#16
I tightened up the old set rivets, lubed it good and reused them. Worked as good as could be expected after numerous adjustments.
#17
I have no personal experience with the repop hinges, except to hear that some found the "problem pivot" to be stiff or frozen (too tight a rivet, paint buildup?) even when new.
I'd say the time to replace them is when there is free play from wear in the pivots or they are bent. Except where abused like from forcing frozen hinges or unlatched hood flying open, I don't expect the hood would have gotten used enough to actually wear the hinges out.
I'd say the time to replace them is when there is free play from wear in the pivots or they are bent. Except where abused like from forcing frozen hinges or unlatched hood flying open, I don't expect the hood would have gotten used enough to actually wear the hinges out.
#18
Ok, had the Step-Sons, Step-Daughter, Daughter-in-law, Son-in-law, and my Wife's ex-husband over to help me put on my hood. Everything was going great, then one hood bolt wouldn't screw into the hood threads and one of the repair kits the threads came loose so I had to hold it with a pair of vice grips. Found out that the previous owner had welded a 3/8 nut into the hole and the hood bolts are 7/16 so I've ordered two more repair kits. The hood is now suspended in the air with my gantry crane. But also the hood wouldn't stay up when opened so back to the Shop Manual. Looked at the hinges and when I painted the hinges I had pulled off the springs well I put the springs on wrong so now I have the springs off but how do I recoil the springs. Trying to see if there is a tool that I can purchase or make before trying to make one myself.
#19
Here is the tool MidFifty sells.
I used it on my hood springs. I don't think I could have done it without it. Of course I'm limited in my tools and skills.....and strength.
1953-56 Ford F-100 Hood Hinge Spring Tool
It's a pretty basic tool. You could probably make your own easily if you have the skill.
I used it on my hood springs. I don't think I could have done it without it. Of course I'm limited in my tools and skills.....and strength.
1953-56 Ford F-100 Hood Hinge Spring Tool
It's a pretty basic tool. You could probably make your own easily if you have the skill.
#20
Here is the tool MidFifty sells.
I used it on my hood springs. I don't think I could have done it without it. Of course I'm limited in my tools and skills.....and strength.
1953-56 Ford F-100 Hood Hinge Spring Tool
It's a pretty basic tool. You could probably make your own easily if you have the skill.
I used it on my hood springs. I don't think I could have done it without it. Of course I'm limited in my tools and skills.....and strength.
1953-56 Ford F-100 Hood Hinge Spring Tool
It's a pretty basic tool. You could probably make your own easily if you have the skill.
#21
Knowing they were like that from the factory (that is, having to push down on the sides to shut the hood), makes me less cheesed off about doing it. I guess I look at it as part of the charm and characteristics of these old trucks. I couple of guys have looked at me while I have gone over and pushed down on both sides and I just shrug and say "that's the way you do it."
Ask me again in a couple of years and I might say, damn! Buy a forward tilt kit! Heheh
Ask me again in a couple of years and I might say, damn! Buy a forward tilt kit! Heheh
#22
For whatever reason the hood on my new 55 F350 closes easily and more importantly it sits down in the back! When I showed that to my body man who labored long and hard on my 54 hood he got sort of miffed. About the 54, we put a good used set of hinges I had lying about. It closes better but no perfect. Imhave to push the hood back towards the cowl and the hood sits down in the back!
#23
Good to know! I made one with a piece of strap metal, 3/4" nut, two 3/8" bolts, and a smaller bolt. Welded the nut to the center of the strap metal, then welded the 3/8" bolts to either end (measuring first the width of the spring), and then welded the smaller bolt to sit in the center of the spring, then cut the bolts down to 1/4". Worked great on the driver's side but didn't work as slick on the passenger side, as a matter of fact I almost tore my little finger off. I'll check out midfifty. Thanks for the link!
#24
I have posted this many times before, but for those who may not have seen it:
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.
The 53-56 hood hinges have a hidden pivot point that tends to freeze up, even on new hinges. The pivot is behind the coil spring and you need to remove the hinges then the springs to access and free it. DO NOT try to repair this with the hinges mouinted to the hood or cowl! Once the hinges are off the truck the springs can be easily removed by hand unless someone has wound them up. To be safe grab the spring with a pair of visegrips and lift off the hook. https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98142&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98140&width=0
https://www.ford-trucks.com/user_gal...=98141&width=0
DMAN IT! I can't get the stupid forum to let the picture appear here so you'll have to click on each link SORRY!
The first pic shows the hinge as it looks off the truck. The second picture shows the hinge with the spring removed. Note the short kinda triangular shaped arm behind the spring. The pivot pin with the slot in it that holds the inner end of the coil spring is the problem child. It must be very free moving for the hood to close properly. Test it by pushing on the upper hood attachment arm to move the arms from the shallow "V" to a parallel configuration. Moving this arm to the position shown in the third photo should feely opperate the entire hinge. Work the hinge until it moves freely. Lube all the pivots with a good grade of white chassis grease. Reinstall the spring on the hinge. No special tools should be required do not add any extra tension beyond what is required to hook the end of the spring by hand. Replace the hinges and remount the hood. Test the fit. If the rear of the hood still pops up when closing, move the striker and latch plate at the front of the hood forwards.
#25
I have my hood and fenders close. Was wondering if I need to adjust the hood rods and the fender rods to get things closer. The left fender has more gap then the right and the hood extends a little pass the fender. The hood is closing good on the left, but the right side of the hood stays up a little. When the first hood release is pulled, shouldn't the hood pop up?
Here is a link to front sheet metal alignment procedures: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post9684034
#26
So the spring should be installed pretty loose? ...no preload?
The rear section of my Hood won't go down without me pushing it down again (even with the Hood closed). All pivot points are easy to move.
#28
I put new mid fifty hinges on as mine were very loose and bent. I made sure all pivots were free. After getting the hood on and haveing to do the hokey pokey .I noticed the ends of the arms where they bolt loosely to the hood were grinding into the hood mounts. A touch of heat to bend the ends out and clean up the sharp stamp cut edges and the hood closes good now. Although I wouldn't call it perfect I don't have to do the hokey pokey any more . Just some thing to look for and check before installing the hood as you all know they come off and on so easily. Dean
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