Thank U all guys for the grate tips and info. As soon the weather gets better I will go in to action after reading all U replays I'm confident to fix this problem. The only debate I have with my self is to buy new oil cooler with gasket and o ring kit or just buy the seal kit. Again meany thanks to Dave, Cody, Ihud, Richard

John

 

I was on the fence about replacing / resealing it,but after hearing all the success on resealing.and was very rare to hear anybody replacing one.so I pulled it last week & it looked very clean with no pitting in oring & gasket surfaces,& installed with no problems.just scribe a line accross the three cooler parts for alighnment,clean gasket surfaces carefully to not scratch surfaces,I cleaned oring surfaces with a fine scotchbrite pad & lubricate orings & surfaces with transmission assembly lube like mentioned.

 

I will finally be able to watch my trans temps this year when pulling stuff around. I am very interested if I will have the need for a 6.0 cooler or not.

 

Hate to pull up an old thread but got a question, rebuilt my oil cooler with all new OEM ford parts and reinstalled, not i have a drip from the front seal where the cooler mates to the block, the seal went on pretty easily so i dont think i damaged it, I'm trying to avoid pulling it off again and draining all the oil and coolant but it looks like i may have too... anything above that cooler that could be leaking down and around it? It seams to be leaking out of the top corner of the seal and dripping down

 

What happened to the pictures?

 

I was dissapointed they are missing also. I am going to do this tomorrow on my 2000 Excursion 7.3. Let me know if there are specific things you want pics of or questions you have and I'm happy to take photos and notes.

I'm planning to do everything from underneath (4" lift). If the front bolts are tricky? I'll go in from the wheelwell or loosen the p/s alt bracket.
I'm going to try only draining the coolant from the block heater and only drain oil from the filter.

 

I pulled the alternator and power steering bracket which made the access to the front header bolts much easier. The rest of it was really straight forward. Just make sure all those little copper tubes are clear and clean and you should be good to go.

 

I have had to do mine several times, different issues don't ask, but I can tell you you don't have to remove anything from the front to get at the two front bolts. Just use a long extension and pry up and support the inner fender out of the way an you can access them from in front of the wheel. I only have a leveling kit so no big lift and it is very easy from the outside.

 

Pics are always nice to see how things are done. That's why I don't like photobucket and don't even have an acct with them. Pics are moved or deleted and then they disappear from here.

 

I have the exact same feeling about the free photo hosting sites. That is partly why I pay for a subscription to FTE. I usually host photos on my own server or upload them to the forum software. I wish more forum software supported that.

I will take a bunch of pictures showing the message I use to access to the bolts. I will probably try the inner fender for the frontl at least the top one.

 

I finished up my oil cooler rebuild late Sunday night, and last night I finished the coolant flush I decided to do after it sunk in that I'd be draining 2 gallons anyway.

I did not loosen or remove anything on the truck aside from the actual oil cooler and access from underneath with standard hand tools was very straightforward. I took lots of pictures of how I accessed everything and what exact tools (extensions, socets, etc) I used so I'll do a writeup later this week.

I don't know why I was dreading this so much: The biggest pain of the whole thing was loosening the oil filter that Oil Can Henry's must have put on with a winch or something.
Now I've got a Fumoto drain valve on the way from www.dieselorings.com and will be doing my own oil changes. I didn't realize how easy it was on this lifted truck: The oil filter on my Suburban with tow package was tucked up over the lower control arm and a pain to get to.

 

That time of the year 2015! After a water pump replacement and oil change the oil cooler problem presented itself. Read a lot about oil cooler o-ring replacement. Thanks to Tugly I found this thread. It also covers almost every issue related to completing the task all-in-one thread. I would like to preserve as much honey colored oil and bright red ELC (CAT) that I can. This leads me to a couple of questions.

1) Do I only need to remove the oil contained within the filter? Then replace all the oil a little early down the road.

2) Do I only need get the ELC out of the drivers-side of the block and not the radiator? Or will the radiator ELC flood that side of the block when I drain from block heater plug.

3) If I address front header bolts from wheel well will I be able to have room to properly clean the block surface from that wheel well area?

Thanks in advance !

 

That's exactly what I did. I just topped off before startup, then again after my leak test.


Drain as much as you can using the radiator drain, it is MUCH less messy. A 5gal bucket fits perfectly under there on my excursion with a 4 inch lift. So if your rig is not lifted, drive the vehicle up on some blocks. Higher in the rear would probably be even better for getting more coolant out of the radiator drain. If you open the flush adaptor or heater hose going to the thermostat, you can get some of the block coolant out as well.

I found it easiest to access those bolts from above the engine and below, the wheel well was too convoluted. I was able to do the entire job from below, with a variety of extensions and universals that were well worth the price from Lowes. Cleaning the mating surface from below, was also fairly easy because there is a good view of it.

Good luck and don't forget to lube those o-rings!

 

Great! Thank you very much for your time.

 

you are very welcome. Happy to answer any questions you may have and give back to this community as much as I can.