Driving my truck (92' F250 4x4 5.8l) down the freeway today and heard a thump in the motor when i got on the gas and then lost oil pressure.
0 oil pressure at idle, makes pressure at 2500rpm, and the motor developed a knock in the bottom end, must have spun a bearing or something.
Just wondering any tips on the swap, gona put another 351w in it.
Found a long block for an 86 with 0 miles, will it work? using my intake and injectors/rail etc.
thanks

 

long block should bolt up no problemo BUT it never is no problemo now is it.lol. theres always that one darn bolt that wont come out and its very hard to get to as well.

good luck!

 

I just did this with my 94 in the spring. My longblock was out of a 95 Bronco. My swap went very smoothly. The biggest issue was lining up the motor and tranny, but that was because we didn't have an adjustable chain levelled on the cherry picker. The biggest thing from my experience is to do everything to the motor before you put it in. I used a sharpie and masking tape and labelled evry wire, hose, and tube being disconnected. I also used ziplock bags for the bolts and then taped them to the components. Worked out well.

The only difference that I am aware of with the older 5.8 is that the stock cams they had were wimpier than the cams in the later motors.

Good luck.

 

True unless the '86 is a 4bbl 351HO then it has a better cam than the later motors.. basically a flat tappet version of the 5.0HO roller cam.

 

ok, next question, unbolting engine, should i leave my bellhousing on the tranny?
how exactly does it come apart, is the T/C conected to the fly wheel?
does it just pull apart?

 

Yes it will jus slide out if you unbolt only the bellhousing an starter, but the installation I would install the torque converter to the tranny an then when installing motor you only have to line up the 4 bolts in torque converter as well as the bellhousing, Less chance of damaging the torque converter.

 

Yes you have to leave bellhousing on tranny, Yes the torque converter is bolted to the flywheel via 4 nuts. Once you remove the starter, all bellhousing bolt, and any other engine stuff on top plus the mount bolts, then you can remove it, Hope that was a lil more detailed.

 

The bellhousing does not detatch from the trans on these automatics so there is only one choice. Better to leave the TC in the trans too, less chance of the seal or pump being damaged.

 

There is an inspection cover at the bottom where the block meets the bellhousing. Remove it (2 or 4 bolts, I think) then remove the flexplate to torque converter bolts. I think I put a ratchet on the crank to turn the the flexplate so that each bolt was accessable.

Two spots that were awkward were the fuel lines and the air injection tube. We had a really hard time disconnecting the fuel lines from the motor. I ended up cutting them on the motor side of the connection and worked the piece out after the motor was out of the engine bay as its hard to get back there. There is a fuel line disconnect tool for this.

There is a metal air injection tube that runs from the back of the motor to the exhaust y-pipe. We had a really hard time getting it to disconnect at the y-pipe and ended up removing the entire y-pipe.

I'm game but not terribly skilled or bright. Took 3 full (8 hour) days working in a garage. One day to pull motor, one day to put back in and line, one day to hook everything back up.

Good luck.

 

so i was just thinking, in 86 they had a mechanical fuel pump????
Im goin fuelinjection, so is there gona be a whole in the motor where the pump goes?
or should i go 87 and up?

 

If the motor has a mechanical fuel pump it is mounted on the timing cover, there are blockoff plates available for this or you could change the cover to an EFI version.

 

i found another one, out of a 78 thunderbird, goin to look at it tommarow and here it run as its still in the car.
Think i can make it work with my intake, and my timing cover??
any other issues im gona run into?

 

so anyone think the motor from the tbird will work?

 

'78 is a smog era motor.. low compression and a tiny cam.. it's gonna be a slug unless you change the heads and cam, and you'll have to change the oilpan and pickup to a rear sump.

 

Got a motor, its out of an 89' looks good on the outside, guy said it had 60,000 miles on it.
im gona pull the heads and check the cylinder walls and bore and pistons and what not.
im gona get a cam, timing chain and lifters and water pump.

Just wondering what I can all check to make sure its gona be reliable while i have it on the stand.
Any ideas on a good cam?
i was thinking the comp cam Extreme Energy XE262H which is 262/270 (@50 218/224) .493 .500 lift 110 lobe sep.
would this be good for a everyday driver.
Ill get some pics up tomorrow.
Thanks again for all the help