No leaks, resevoir full, pedal goes nearly to floor before any resistance.

 

Why is this one so much cheaper than this one ?

 

can't see the second one but the first is non ford from the looks and without cruise and the second is on a Ford site so I can only imagine its Ford.

 

for the second one i went to ftepartsguy.com and found it there, but its wierd becuase it had a different price for the diesel vs. gas. i would think they would be the same.

 

try this:
Th!nk Parts Guy/FTE Parts Guy

near the bottom is the diesel ones.

 

Have you tried adjusting the rear brakes before condemning the master cylinder? They need to be adjusted tight. If you got an open diff in it then jack the back up and adjust then till you can't spin the tires by hand any more. WIth a locker of LS rear then adjust the first one till you can't spin and you have to feel for it on the other.

You can tell it's an adjustment problem if your park brake goes way down too.

 

well it happened suddenly, but i would think that it wouldn't be an adjustment issue, but i checked the p-brake. i can push the pedal all the way down, but there is alot of resistance. To be honest i have only ever worked on a brake on my old Go-kart, and it is all mechanical. i know disc brakes work, but not drum brakes. I would be better off rebuilding an engine than brakes. LOL.

So does this sound like an adjustment issue or master cylinder. also if i push the pedal really fast and hard it seems to not push as far inward intially, but then goes nearly all the way to the floor. so what do y'all think?

 

The rear brakes may have busted something. That will make the pedal drop down. Gotta get them opened up to be sure.
I hope you use the parking brake regularly before you mashed all the way down. Might have cable stuck too.

 

well no, but i just drove across town, the p-brake isn't stuck.

 

after toying around with a load of hay this afternoon, i know that the rear brakes are not contributing at all. Unless the p-brake only works on the rear brakes, becuase those work. Still think that something on the rear is broke, or would this point to the master cylinder? Any input is good.

 

Pull it apart and inspect. The drums are pop offs so it's no big deal. Jack it up and take a look. The parking brake cable may be routed wrong. Mine was. The parking brake only works the rear brakes. Pics would be a good idea.
Good luck bud!

 

To check the master cylinder, go to you local hard ware store and get some plugs so you can unhook your outlet brake line from the master cylinder and plug them off. The rear port will use a brass plug but the front will need a reducer then brass plug. This is called dead heading because the fluid has no place to go. If the pedal drops with those plugged off then I would guess you are getting some blow by past the piston. If it is good and hard with no pedal drop, then check the front and rear circuits by leaving one port plugged and hooking the other back up. To get any air out of the line at the master cylinder connection you can have someone, or wedge a bar between the pedal and seat, and loosen up the connection at the line/master cylinder area. This will by like opening the bleeder of the piston/caliper.

 

That's a good sign that something is busted/worn out in the rear brakes. If the p-brake isn't used on a regular basis they will jamb the rears the first time you mash the pedal....then they need to come apart, not fun.

 

X2 Jim

If they are worn, the emg break can hyper extend them and pop them off of the tensioner.
But just a thought here- Hows your vacuum pump pulling?

 

Usually the cable(s) stick and the shoes won't retract off the drum.
If the vac pump was going belly-up the pedal would be rock hard.