ok soo i just purchased it from XDP, final cost being $77.50 i checked around no one could really come close to that price but now my question is..i know the instructions probaly have me taking the whole turbo off the truck but i watch a video on youtube and the guy just takes off the outer shell of the compressor housing soo i decided to look at my truck and doing it that way would seem alot easier and alot quicker than removing the whole turbo...idea's??? the wheel is supposed to be in tomorrow soo i need some thoughts

 

I pulled the whole trubo when I did mine, but I was looking to replace O rings while in there, Otherwise, I would have done it on the truck, IF THE SHAFT HAS NO PLAY..

 

We pulled the turbo when we installed my wheel.It was time to change the uppipe donuts,turbo pedastal o-rings and gut the EBPV.There are others like Joe(Izzy) that can explain the process without pulling it.Hope it goes well,you will like the difference it makes.

 

mmmm ok...i was just looking to put the wheel in, soo maybe my best way is to just leave it in then?? it didnt look to complicated

 

If you pull your turbo, it will be wise to get this kit for the reinstall: http://www.dieselorings.com/index.ph...at=14&group=11

 

I did mine with the turbo in but I think if I did it again I would get the new orings and just pull the turbo. It is a pain to get some of those bolts off with the turbo still installed. Definetly not super hard to do but the turbo is pretty easy to take out so I would do it that way. Just my .02

 

I know plenty of people have done it without removing the turbo, but I took mine off just because it was so much easier than laying across the top of the engine. Saves the grief of removing that tiny little clip for the wastegate too.

 

I didn't pull my turbo to install the WW. I now have more cowbell ...um... whistle than I think I should. I'm going to have to pull the exhaust to see if I damaged the turbine wheel. I have read where others have done this without a problem. I figured I'm always more **** about doing things so it would be no problem. Others have posted where they did damage the turbine wheel and the only replacement for that is to get the wheel and shaft as it is one piece. I don't know if the whistle I have is normal. I do know that I need to get back there and check it out.
Many have done the WW w/o removing the turbo. I'm just trying to provide food for thought.

 

I left the turbo on the truck when I did mine as well. The intake housing is easy to remove and it's right there.
I removes from the shaft in the same direction that it rotates.
You have to disconnect the downpipe and devise a way to anchor the shaft via the exhaust wheel without bending the blades.
I tried to pop mine off with an air gun but all it did was spin the shaft and was forced to anchor it first. Then it came loose.

 

It sounds like a lot of work, but having done it with the turbo on, then swapped turbos, I suggest you just pull the turbo. It's not that bad of a job, but you will need a set of O-rings.

 

When I had the WW, I did it with the turbo in the truck, no problems. Gasgrunt88 Chris had a problem when he did his, the stock wheel didn't want to break loose and he bent an exhaust fin, ruined his turbo, had to lend him mine for the time being. Personally, I'd just pull the turbo, you have plenty of help here if you have a question or problem.

 

Yeah, having never pulled the turbo before, I did it by myself and it's alot easier to work on. Plus when you make a bonehead move like bending an exhaust fin the turbo is already out.

 

I may have too much cowbell too. lol

Bending the turbine is exactly what I was afraid I may have done as mine did not want to pop loose. That is why I wish I had just pulled the turbo. I am going to have to sometime to check it now anyway. Oh well. That will be a good excuse to a bigger housing.

 

I have done three Wicked wheel replacements now and have come to this determination, while I am doing this I better check a few other things. Doing the WW with the turbo on is pretty straight forward, but I have had to go back to that truck and do o-rings and turbine housing bolts. So I have decided that from now on I will take off the turbo and do some maintenence while I am there.
1. Check turbine housing bolts per TSB 03-14-09. All three turbo's I've done had loose and or missing bolts. I now carry a four pack from Ford in my 7.3 Med-kit. Part#1C3Z-9G486-AA
2. Replace Turbo and pedistal o-rings. Ya know they are going to give out on you sooner then later and they are cheap.
3. If ya don't have bellowed up pipes change the gaskets now.
4. Check EBP actuator rod for signs of oil leakage and rebuild if needed.

You could do some other things that I would consider " Mods ". But at the very least I would do the these four. Except for the rebuild that may or may not need to be done, the other parts can be had for under 20.00 bucks total.

 

ok well can i have a part number for the o-ring kit i would need and the up pipe donuts kit i would need also...