Pull the orifice tube FIRST.
If there is a lot of debris, replace the condenser too. That condenser can't be reliably flushed, even with "professional" flush equipment.
The debris on the orifice tube will indicate if there was a compressor failure. If so, the condenser will have caught most of it first.

 

I used maintain a bunch of machines that had three Warner brake/clutch coils. You may have smelled the insulation on the coil windings burning. I've seen them actually bubble up out of the terminal connections.

If the compressor is tight or tends to freeze up while not in use for long periods like winter, it may slip on the first use. It's not uncommon to seize right up, broken free manually and still work.

What's the air gap between the armature(plate) and field coil? Shouldn't be more than .010-.015". A rough surface is normal too.

Too bad there isn't known resistance to go by for the coils. I know that the books for Warner products had all the values. Not really sure if this isn't in the Ford manuals????

 

From what I've seen on other Fords, the coils typically measure between 2.5 and 5 ohms.

 

If you are getting good low pressure and getting good high readings, your compressor is compressing. What happens before and after that may be another story.
This post is several years old, and I suspect you were using the A/C during that time. How did it work? Why revive this thread?
I didn't look at the age originally, and just started reading. My first suspect was the condenser fan. It was noted as 'running'. That may be so, but does not tell if it was running correctly. If the motor was tired, brushes worn, or bearings a little dry, the airflow through the condenser may not be what was expected, leaving too much heat in the refrigerant when it leaves, or limiting the amount available to go through the orifice. If you can't get a 'solid' flow of refrigerant to the orifice, you will not get maximum cooling. It sort of 'splutters' refrigerant when flow is limited.
Intermittent sparking of the shoe on the clutch is normal. If it is sparking all the time, not so normal. If the clutch pulls in and locks up, it is doing its job. If the compressor pulls and pushes, as noted above, it's doing its job. If you metered in the correct amount of refrigerant, the only things left are a)condenser clogged or b)condenser airflow not normal {check with misting/hosing at idle, and note performance at speed}, or c)evaporator not working due to 1)clogged flow from debris {leaves, bugs, Mcdonalds wrappers, detritus of any sort} or 2)blend door is adding too much heat and ruining a good thing...
If the orifice was plugged, you'd have high pressure and a real low on the suction side with limited cooling if any as flow could not occur. There is a trouble shooting 'tree' in the shop manual. Available in DVD format regularly on eBay.{cheap}
Pressure and temperature are absolutes to 'know' what is going on. Incoming ambient air temp, center outlet temp, measured with doors open, high idle, fresh air instead of Mare-circ). If you can drop 20 degrees or more, you're doing about as well as can be expected. You have the max load available unless you want to go to conditioned space where you can raise the ambient and add moisture. You have the 'minimum' cooling, as the compressor is running at idle rpm, and the airflow over the condenser is limited to what the fans can pull. These are about the worst conditions you will meet in normal operation. If you have the manual by now, three years later, I think you can get performance specs under your ambient conditions to know if the system is operating correctly.
A bum or worn compressor cannot pump the fluid to high pressure as it leaks past the 'wear spots'. It will also not be able to get the low pressure very low, as refrigerant will leak past the pistons back to the 'low side' reducing the 'vacuum' it can pull.
FWIW, I have a vehicle with an FS-6 that is over 20 years old, and has 250k on the clock that will still cool pretty well. Haven't put gauges on it in a while. I figure it is getting tired, so don't expect perfection.
If you can see a quick 'flash of frost' on the suction line leading to the compressor when you first engage the compressor, it is working.
How hard to R&R the compressor? Not a clue, but if it's anything like the alternator, you need to grow some child sized hands. I think it is about what you expect, and haven't heard of any significant problems.
tom