batteries were kept charged up truck cranks good truck is plugged in When problem started I drove the truck home ran fine. Ishut it off came out 1 hour later and it woudnt start . Do you recomend a rebuilder to send ficm to seeing it is to costly to send it to ford thanks

 

FICMrepair.com is my choice. Lots of folks use SWAMPS.

BTW - I wouldn't necessarily depend on the voltage or cranking time to determine batteries are good. I repeat - individually load test. I just recently went through this. Bad batteries that showed up ONLY on a load test.

 

I can not go back and edit the original post, so I am adding the info here. Basically, I wanted to better describe the wiring that can be "tapped into" for the ICP reading (volts).

Here is the original post:

Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector (or tap into them w/ leads that can poke through the insulation). Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.

Additional info:

Position the ICP connector and wires as follows:
Reference orientation - harness connector clip on the bottom, with the connector facing away from you, and wires coming towards you.
Top wire: db-lg
Bottom left wire: bn-wh
Bottom right wire: gy-rd

Now, you can pick the proper wires, even if the connector has been changed and the new connector only has purple wires.

 

Just wanted to add the following, since it seems to come up quite often:

The FICM voltage check often times will identifiy a bad FICM, but not always.

You can check the voltage on a FICM and get good values, and it can STILL be failed (even when getting 48V at the three conditions - KOEO, cranking, and 2000 rpm's if possible).

It would be great to have an absolute test that we can all do at home for determining a bad FICM, but that simply does not exist. IMO this is probably one of the most common no-start frustrations (from reading the forums).

 

Again - some more info, but can't edit an earlier post .......

For the air pressure test to look for a leak in the high pressure oil system:

You should be able to remove the IPR harness without removing the turbo.

Remove the coolant reservoir and take the FICM and bracket off and remove the last intake bolt (and possibly the last valve cover bolt on the top edge) so you can get your hand back and unplug the IPR. Be VERY careful w/ the FICM connectors!

To command the IPR valve - you can use an old ipr connector from an old harness wired to a cig. lighter plug and [U]only[/] keep it plugged in for 30 seconds not to damage the IPR. Try asking a tech at your local ford dealer, maybe one will be nice enough to snip one off a harness thats laying around. Red wire switched power Pin A B+; Yellow /red switched ground Pin B-.

You should use an M12x1.5 to a #4JIC fitting for the air to the ICP port.

As stated, a spare IPR connector (Ford part # 6E7Z-12A690-DA) can be obtained from the dealership (new or hopefully used) - and MAYBE a salvage yard.

Remove the oil fill cap, remove the CCV hose that goes into the air intake from the other valve cover, take a piece of heater hose and listen in BOTH spots after applying shop air to the ICP fitting. It will take a minute to push the oil out of the oil rail before you are able to hear the air flow (note the air will flow because the IPR valve is still open). As soon as you hear the air flow, command the IPR valve to close (again - ONLY for 30 seconds). If you hear air coming from either one of the spots you are listening to, then it's probably a leak in one of the oil rails. If you hear air coming from BOTH sides it's probably the HPOP or STC fitting. Note - when the IPR is commanded closed, you should here a slight "POP" or "CLICK" sound.

Also:
If IPR is at 80% while at hot idle, then you have high pressure oil leak, failed pump or a bad ipr valve.
IPR should be around 22-24% at hot idle; up to maybe 30% but that maybe a little too high.

There is a hole that is situated just above the HPOP drive gear. If air is heard/felt exiting this hole when air testing, this is normal if IPR duty cycle is not commanded to 100% because that is the exhaust passage. The way to condemn a high pressure oil pump is to air test it with the turbo oil supply tube removed from the top of the oil cooler base. If air is heard/felt from this port during air testing, the high pressure oil pump is bad. Air heard from the oil filter housing (filter removed) is also a way to condemn an HPOP!

 

Here are a couple of links to some Ford diagnostic sheets:

http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...esel_sheet.pdf

http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...iagnostic2.pdf

http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...ance_Sheet.pdf

Chaffing pics (may be repeats, but they are different addresses):

Use these photographs in conjunction with SSM 17522 for identifying and locating potential wiring chafe locations

http://www.fordtechservice.dealercon...05ChafeEye.asp

 

Nice information Mark

 

I just wanted to update this post.

I am sure that the major FICM repair places are all good at what they do. However, I have now used FICMRepair.com, so I will post up my experience. I am very happy w/ the work that was done and the price is even more reasonable that repairs from SWAMPS and CBM. I do recommend Ed at FICMrepair.com.

 

Here's a very good and complete test procedure for LOW ICP (no start) by International. Thought it should be added to this post. May be good to edit the link into the first post Bismic.

very good step by step instructions on pressure checking the HPO system and figuring out what the problem is:
http://www.nosun.ca/wingnut/051207.PDF

 

Here is a link to an interesting no-start ............ related to a bad HPOP.

Symptoms - starting fine when parking "nose down". Hard or no-start when parking flat or "nose up". The most likely issue is the HPOP sump draining while the truck is parked.

Thanks Piolet and cheezit!

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...deo-added.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-included.html

Quite Rare:
You have either
1. a crack in the block under the oil cooler (Cheezit has never seen or heard of it happening)
2. a failed o-ring at the pump side feed circuit (o-ring from pump to block) or
3. a failed high pressure pump allowing fluid to leak past it while its not running.

To diag the above is easy. Remove the oil cooler and the hpp cover. From there you will clean the hpp resivor out with a lint free rag and fill the sump with diesel fuel (flows much better then oil) and see if you can find the leak. If not take a time measurement of how fast it will drain, and then remove the pump and plug the pump feed port with a rubber plug. Once the port is plugged, refill the sump and see if it still leaks out. If the leak is gone, then you have a failed pump. Also, to test the o-ring, is visual test. If its ripped, then it is bad, if its undamaged, then it is good. My money goes to the failed hpop.

 

EDIT - if you decide on the ScangaugeII instead of a phone app ......................... See below

Also, a ScangaugeII (around $150) makes it a lot easier to troubleshoot problems - especially a no-start. I will link a few good threads on this as I get time!

Here is one thread discussing hw to program the SGII:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post10227382


Also, here are some good videos on the air pressure testing:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post11979227

 

This morning we had our coldest night yet and I'm sure we had lots of condensation in the fuel tank. About 3 miles from the house my wife lost power while taking the kids to school, and then the engine stopped altogether. Batteries are in great condition.

This afternoon, I replaced both fuel filters (they were nasty brown), and there was some rust in the lower filter housing, which I cleaned out.

Now, after purging the air from the system, I've run through what I can of the starting checklist (thanks), including checking the emergency fuel shut-off, and I still can't get it to start.

Any ideas?

2006 F-250 Super Duty King cab, 6.0L Diesel. 210800 miles.

 

Pull fuel filter from upper side (next to oil filter) and look to see that it's filling up....careful, it fills FAST!

Did you turn key ON but not to start and wait until you hear the fuel pump stop? Do it 3 times.

Look up in the TECH FOLDER...good NO START tests.

 

What are the symptoms?
Does it crank/
Cam you hear the fuel pump turn on when you turn the key?

 

I hear the fuel pump turn on, and it cranks very well. It just doesn't seem to want to fire off. Glow plugs appear to be operating normally... (I don't have a way to test them, not tools)