A freind of mine said it is good to run 1 gallon of biodiesel per fill up for lubication have anyone treid this and what was the results.

 

That would be 2.3BD, based on a 44gal tank. If you see biodiesel fueling stations that have BD2, BD5, BD20, that's 2% biodiesel to 98% diesel for BD2, 5% for BD5%, and so on, all pre-mixed. Adding 1 gallon of pure biodiesel to a full tank of diesel minus 1 gallon, divide the diesel count by the fuel capacity, 43 divided by 43, and count the distance to 1, which is your percent. 43/44=0.977, to 1 is 0.023, or 2.3%.

From what I've heard, it can clean things up pretty well. However in the process it will clog filters getting the crap out, so you're supposed to change the fuel filters after say 3k or so if memory serves. Also BD has less energy per capacity than standard diesel, so your mpg will suffer a bit, if you notice it. There's tons of information regarding it on the web.

 

PM bismic if he doesn't stop by this thread. I think he uses biodiesel & Stanadyne Performance every fill up.

 

It is true according to a study that was done on diesel fuel lubricity. Do a yahoo search and type in "diesel fuel lubricity study." They studied ulsd fuel without any lubricating additives from a refinery and then tested it with various additives to assess their lubricity. I believe B2 came out on top.

 

Do you know where i can buy Stanadyne Performance around the Houston area?

 

Their website has a Dealer Locator tab. It can also be purchased from multiple sources online.

You might want to do some price comparison before purchasing locally. I can buy it online and still be cheaper than my local diesel shop even counting shipping cost.

http://www.stanadyne.com/view.php?id=1

 

Thank you i will look into it sounds like a good deal.

 

PowerService DieselKleen is also a good additive, gray bottle for summer and white with anti-gel for winter. 1 oz/3 gal. I usually add @ 8 oz bottle every fill-up and I've never had a WIF light. You can get this at Wal-Mart, Pep Boys, etc. X2 on the BD, as I run B10 year-round. Theres a 24hr automated facility close to me that sells it, and I love it.

 

Cowboy 65 where online are you buying it from and is it the blue Stanadyne Performance

 

I add 32oz of TWC3 rated 2-stroke oil per fillup for lubrication. Under $12 a gallon and works like a champ!

 

I think Blue Ridge Diesel is where bismic gets his and they come out to be the cheapest.

 

I'll probably go with Blue Ridge on my next purchase they are cheaper than the last place I ordered from. Buy in large quantities to redcuce the overall cost.

The last bottle of Stanadyne Performance I got was in a bottle with a blue label.

http://www.blueridgediesel.com/specials1.htm

 

My choice was to use 0.6 gallons of Bio every tank fill-up (2%) - along with 8 oz. of Stanadyne. I believe it is VERY helpful for lubricity AND for cetane values. I can not prove the effectiveness, nor can I say that I have 100k trouble free miles behind me (like Beachbumcook can say w/ his double dose of Diesel Kleen). On the flip side, I know several folks with great performance with NO fuel additives. It is my belief however, that fuel additives help the "long term" but will be almost impossible to prove their worth. You may even get lucky and never get bad fuel, but eventually the poor lubricity of the fuel will affect the injectors IMO). Also, the fact that Ford recommends 45 cetane minimum and the US is routinely distributing 38-40 cetane fuel speaks for itself.

I can say I have 51k miles and I am absolutetly convinced the following "mods" are necessary:
1. coolant filter
2. EGR valve - updated to the newest design
3. computer flash to the most recent one
4. ccv re-route - just make sure you do not back-pressure the crankcase
5. fuel additives
6. synthetic 5W40 oil
7. gauges (I am not "walking-the-talk" on this one, but I am close). Specifically - watch your fuel pressure and boost!

Once past the warranty period, everyone that can afford it should look to doing head studs and EGR system delete (w/ a tune).

These items will keep the 6.0L smile for a LONG time. Is it unfortunate that these things are so important? Of course the answer is YES. That being said, I will protect my investment and expect to tremendously enjoy what I have purchased for a long time.

Sorry for the editorial ............... I am back on my "pain pills". I just wanted to say that I believe the PROPER fuel additives to be important.


Back on track:

My last EGR valve inspection (48k) showed it to be very clean. The first time was greasy sludge in huge quantities (27k).

I do buy the Stanadyne from Blue Ridge. They have been great to me. If you buy two cases of 1/2 gallon jugs (6 jugs per case), you can ask them to tape the cases together to reduce shipping. Once you have bought the 1/2 gallon jugs, you can buy the Stanadyne in 5 gallon pails. You can even buy a small/cheap electric transfer pump to fill the empty jugs from your pail. At this point it gets pretty cheap (relatively speaking).

The overall cost will be equal to a fuel cost increase of 6-8 cents per gallon.

There is no question that the biodiesel is rated as the best for lubricity. This is all I need. It is a pain to buy and store it, but I do not mind. I have three 5 gallon fuel containers that I fill up every 6 months and I have a DOT "spill proof" plastic container that is the perfect size (from Freund).

I will say that I have become more convinced that the ashless 2-stroke oil is an acceptable lubricity additive. I have been skeptical for quite awhile, but I am being "won over". I have no plans to switch to it, but I will probably do it once or twice to check to see if I can hear the difference that everyone is claiming.

Lubricity study:

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 634pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=845 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 634pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 30902" width=845><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 15.75pt" height=21><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent; WIDTH: 634pt; HEIGHT: 15.75pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=21 width=845>http://www.johnfjensen.com/Diesel_fuel_additive_test.pdf</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Thanks for a great post. About the EGR Valve (#2 in your list), I'm not sure what you mean. Am I understanding it right that everyone says to just unplug it? Can you elaborate more on that? About the new version of the EGR, I had mine replaced about 2 years ago..how can I tell if that is the new version? I think I'm getting confused by your comment, where you say to do the EGR delete after the warranty period???

I'm going to do the 2% bio 2 and order the Stanadyne, and the coolant filter.

 

I do not believe in just unplugging the EGR valve. Pressure imbalances and weak springs can allow it to open and it can stick this way. If it does, you will get inefficient combvustion and then soot and carbon. IMO, keep your EGR valve until you can actually delete the entire system and get a tuner that properly controls the combustion without EGR flow.

I do not believe that you should delete the EGR system until your warranty period is up - BECAUSE, if you mod this heavily you essentially forfeit your engine warranty coverage. I believe it is a GREAT mod, but I would not expect Ford to pay for turbo problems (for example) after I deleted the EGR system and installed a tuner. But hey - that is just me.

Hope I answered your question ??

I have a chart of the updates to the EGR valve - it is in my picture album. I will post the link in a minute.

Edit - here is the link:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/p...ictureid=12084