The van started the CEL a few weeks ago. Then began running pretty sick, like it's not getting enough fuel. I heard a clanking noise at a drive thru, not a pleasant thought. *When I go it about 2 years ago I replaced all the belts, hoses, plugs, etc.)
Codes read:
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
P0300 Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
From reading old posts, I learned the position sensor needs a special tool to replace. I can probably deal with that. But none of those posts also referred to the P0300 codes, so I was wondering if I had a more serious problem.
Should I go ahead and replace the sensor?
Any other thoughts or warnings?

 

The misfire is probably a result of the other problems, such as a malfunction of the CP sensors. That was a problem with the OBD-I diagnostic system; some problems show up with a couple of different symptoms, making it difficult for you to decide how to start the fix. You would have to try looking at each of the symptoms. But in this case, I think the problems are related, and you can check to see if the CP sensors is indeed bad.

 

How old are the Plugs and Wires? If they are 60k+ mi old I would go ahead and replace those.

I do concur with XLT that the CPS is throwing your code and causing the issues.

 

I did the plugs about 18 months ago, probably less than 8K miles on them. I forget if we did the wires at the same time.

I'll try replacing the camshaft sensor.

Thanks!

 

Any clues on which parts suppliers loan the camshaft Sensor Replacement Tool? My local Advance Auto denies it's existance...

 

According to the Dorman webpage, their cam sync comes with the tool:

https://www.dormanproducts.com/cgi-b...tegory_list=:0


O'Reilly's offers this part for the Aerostar 3.0L for $62.99

http://www.oreillyauto.com/EW3/Produ...&currentPage=0

 

our site sponsor RockAuto

1997 FORD AEROSTAR 3.0L 182cid V6 FI (U) : Engine : Camshaft Synchronizer
DORMAN Part # 689104 More Info {OE Solutions; Includes Alignment Tool (where applicable) #F58Z12A362BA}

Part Image
$39.89

 

The part has arived. Now for a really stupid question:

Where is the dad-gum camshaft position sensor located on the engine? I've searched the aerostar forum and googled, but I've got no clue. Chilton's provides directions, plus some on the forum, but everone presumes I'm smart enough to know where it is.

Is it at the front or back of the engine?

Also, cylinder 1 (for TDC positioning) is the front cylinder on the passenger side, right?

Thanks!

 

The sensor is probably on the back of the engine, probably where the distributor would have been located. Yes, the #1 cylinder is the frontmost passenger side.

 

OK, I replaced the sensor but not the base/shaft part.

Why? We couldn't figure out how to get a 97 3.0 to 0 degreess TDC of the compression (as opposed to the exhaust) stroke. With no distributor, and no indicator that we could find on the front of the crankshaft area (other than a missing tooth and a scribed line on the main gear/pulley--but no reference on the block that we could find), the only way to figure out whether we were on a compression or exhaust stroke was removing a valve cover, which we weren't prepared to do time-wise. (With the limited space in the van's engine compartment, not a quick thing.)

Is there another way to figure the compression stroke? We put a compression gauge on cylinder #1, but by manually (slowly) turning the engine with a wrench, we couldn't get the needle to move to indicate compression.

Anyway, by just swapping out the sensor on top, it runs (less badly) but is by no means smooth. The CEL is gone. I'm hoping over the next 30 miles or so the computer will get itself sorted out and it will run better. Am I dreaming?

 

The old method was to put your thumb over the spark plug hole while someone turns the engine. You can feel for the build up of pressure as the piston approaches TDC on the compression stroke, and drop as it passes.

I think that missing tooth on the harmonic balancer must be TDC for cylinder 1. If not, it must be reference for something significant. It should get you to the exact position you need, once you approach the max pressure region with your thumb over the spark plug hole.

 

The engine (and exhaust manifold) was still pretty hot, plus it isn't the easiest thing to reach when cool. We actually went so far as to take the compression gauge off the compression tester and put a small balloon on the end of the attached tube. No observable effect on the balloon as the engine was manually turned slowly. I'm beginning to fear I've got little or no compression in that cylinder. Either that or we were turning so slowly that the compression was escaping via the offseting openings of the rings.

Anyway, the CEL is back on. I'll borrow the reader and pull the codes again...

 

from Ford Serv CD.
Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP sensor) (6C315) is a variable reluctance sensor that is used to inform the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650) when the number one piston (6108) is at top dead center (TDC). This provides the powertrain control module with the necessary reference for ignition and fuel injector timing.

On 2.3L engines, the CKP sensor is nonadjustable and is triggered by a 36 minus one tooth data wheel located on the crankshaft vibration damper (6316). On 3.0L, 4.0L and 5.0L engines (6007), there are 36 minus one tooth on the crankshaft vibration damper and pulley (6B321). The missing tooth provides the TDC reference point.

CAUTION:
Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L) must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement synchronizer assembly. Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine (6007), possibly causing engine damage.

CAUTION:
Prior to the removal of the camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (12A112), set No. 1 cylinder to 0 degrees top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Then note the position of the camshaft position sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the electrical connector be located in the same position.


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

2. Disconnect fuel charging wiring electrical connector from camshaft position sensor.

3. Remove the CMP sensor screws and camshaft position sensor from camshaft synchronizer.

CAUTION:
Do not move crankshaft (6303) until entire installation procedure is complete. Doing so will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine resulting in possible emissions fault.

Note:
If camshaft synchronizer is to be removed from the cylinder block (6010), proceed with Step 4. If the camshaft synchronizer is not being removed, proceed to installation Step 8.

4. Remove hold-down clamp (12270).

5. Remove camshaft synchronizer from cylinder block.


Installation

1. Attach Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L).

CAUTION:
Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L) must be obtained prior to installation of the replacement synchronizer assembly. Failure to follow this procedure will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine (6007), possibly causing engine damage.

CAUTION:
Prior to the removal of the camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor) (12A112), set No. 1 cylinder to 0 degrees top dead center (TDC) of compression stroke. Then note the position of the camshaft position sensor electrical connector. The installation procedure requires that the electrical connector be located in the same position.


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301).

2. Disconnect fuel charging wiring electrical connector from camshaft position sensor.

3. Remove the CMP sensor screws and camshaft position sensor from camshaft synchronizer.

CAUTION:
Do not move crankshaft (6303) until entire installation procedure is complete. Doing so will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine resulting in possible emissions fault.

Note:
If camshaft synchronizer is to be removed from the cylinder block (6010), proceed with Step 4. If the camshaft synchronizer is not being removed, proceed to installation Step 8.

4. Remove hold-down clamp (12270).

5. Remove camshaft synchronizer from cylinder block.


Installation

1. Attach Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L, 4.0L) or T96T-12200-A (5.0L).

2. Align the synchronizer vane with the radial slot of the Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A (3.0L) or T96T-12200A (5.0L).

3. Rotate the tool on the synchronizer base until the tool's boss engages the base notch.

4. Dip gear end into ESE-M2C123-A oil or equivalent to coat gear, thrust washer and lower bearing.

5. CAUTION: Do not rotate crankshaft when syncro positioning tool is on the camshaft synchronizer. Armature tab will be damaged and synchronizer timing may be shifted.

On 3.0L engines, install camshaft synchronizer so that drive gear engagement occurs when arrow on Syncro Positioning Tool T95T-12200-A is pointed approximately 75 degrees (3.0L), 60 degrees (4.0L) counterclockwise off the centerline of the engine. This step will locate camshaft position sensor electrical connector to the original position.

6. CAUTION: If camshaft position sensor electrical connector is not positioned properly, DO NOT reposition the connector by rotating the synchronizer assembly. This will result in the fuel system being out of time with the engine, possibly causing engine damage. Remove the synchronizer assembly and repeat Step 5.

Install hold-down clamp and tighten to 19-30 N-m (14-22 lb-ft) on 3.0L, 4.0L and 23-34 N-m (17-25 lb-ft) on 5.0L.

7. Remove Syncro Positioning Tool.

8. Install CMP sensor and CMP sensor screws. Tighten to 2.5-3.5 N-m (23-30 lb-in).

9. Connect fuel charging wiring electrical connector to camshaft position sensor (CMP sensor).

10. Note: When battery voltage is removed from the powertrain control module (PCM) (12A650), all learned values will be cleared and reset to predetermined values. When battery voltage is restored to the PCM, the vehicle may exhibit certain driveability concerns. It will be necessary to drive the vehicle to allow the PCM to relearn values for optimum driveability and performance.

Connect battery ground cable.
------------------------------------------

there are a number of pictures but almost impossible to extract from the CD program from Ford.
have a Ford DVD for later Aeros that pic's are much easier to extract but can't find it, will look again later.

 

Thanks. I definitely saw the missing tooth. But I wasn't sure where to position it, unless I suppose completely at the top. If there was some sort of pointer or marker on the engine block, we couldn't find it.

If you find those pictures, it might help. I had tried downloading an setting up the Ford CD image several times, but failed. An Chilton's is of no use so far as pictures of this, as far as I can tell.

 

Update. Got it running. Found a wire disconnected on the driver's side near the back of the plenum. Not precisely sure what it went to, but it's working now--running good as ever. No more CEL, and thankfully, I didn't have to replace the plugs again.