fuel heater fix directions!!!!! w/pics
#46
In the pictures on the 1st page... how in the heck do you actually get to the small o-ring? I ended up breaking the plastic housing (I'm now ordering one off e-bay) but I still didn't find the inner o-ring. I tried tapping the metal tab down and I tried to remove it from the bottom as well. I'd just like to know if I have to go through this again. Thanks.
#47
In the pictures on the 1st page... how in the heck do you actually get to the small o-ring? I ended up breaking the plastic housing (I'm now ordering one off e-bay) but I still didn't find the inner o-ring. I tried tapping the metal tab down and I tried to remove it from the bottom as well. I'd just like to know if I have to go through this again. Thanks.
#48
I am in the middle of fixing the fuel heater leak on my 91 7.3 IDI. IH now wants $133 for the entire heater, and neither IH nor Ford ($168 for the heater) has the right o-rings or even knows what the correct size would be.
I did some digging, and the closest o-rings (round cross section) I have found are designated 2-014 for the inner (smaller) o-ring under the spade connector. The larger o-ring that seals the plug as it goes through the top of the assembly is designated 2-016. I found a local machine shop that gave me some of the rings for free! Kudos to "Tri C" in West Sacramento.
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Alternatively you can look them up at McMaster and order them in square section shape (like the original). The only material they have them in is called Buna-n. That stuff is supposedly good for oil environments. The drawback is they come in 100ea only, but they are only about $10 a pack.<o></o>
I did some digging, and the closest o-rings (round cross section) I have found are designated 2-014 for the inner (smaller) o-ring under the spade connector. The larger o-ring that seals the plug as it goes through the top of the assembly is designated 2-016. I found a local machine shop that gave me some of the rings for free! Kudos to "Tri C" in West Sacramento.
<o></o>
Alternatively you can look them up at McMaster and order them in square section shape (like the original). The only material they have them in is called Buna-n. That stuff is supposedly good for oil environments. The drawback is they come in 100ea only, but they are only about $10 a pack.<o></o>
National #014 and National #016 for the o-rings
National O-Rings 014 - O-Ring | O'Reilly Auto Parts
National O-Rings 016 - O-Ring | O'Reilly Auto Parts
#50
Guys,
I had to do my 94, so I decided to shoot a video of the process for those of you with a 1 piece element. It is a pretty easy and inexpensive fix. I put an o-ring from an assortment in it that was much too small but I stretched it over the fitting, greased it up and pressed it in. So far it hasn't leaked, and like the video says, I'll take the original down to try to find a match, and post the results. I took some pics as well.
Take a look at this.
If you remove the filter and heater as a unit it is a lot easier to drain afterwards.
The top o-ring is the original, and the bottom one is similar to the one I made work.
Hope this helps,
Mac.
I had to do my 94, so I decided to shoot a video of the process for those of you with a 1 piece element. It is a pretty easy and inexpensive fix. I put an o-ring from an assortment in it that was much too small but I stretched it over the fitting, greased it up and pressed it in. So far it hasn't leaked, and like the video says, I'll take the original down to try to find a match, and post the results. I took some pics as well.
Take a look at this.
If you remove the filter and heater as a unit it is a lot easier to drain afterwards.
The top o-ring is the original, and the bottom one is similar to the one I made work.
Hope this helps,
Mac.
#51
just got done doing this. what a pita it was. first, my filter head, 1994, only uses one o-ring, NOT two. second, it uses the smaller of the two o-rings(o'riley's links) but the small one is still WAY TO BIG. turns out i had one identical to the o-ring needed in my 0-ring stash. hopefully it doesn't leak.
#53
Thanks for the great write ups. I just pulled my 1992 fuel filter housing apart and replaced the o-ring. I used a #016, it fit perfectly. We'll see if it leaks at all but didn't when I flipped on my fuel pump (electric). Macg, your tip on flipping the whole unit upside down was extremely helpful.
Question- My fuel filter heater had a bunch of brown gunk on it. Looked and had a consistency almost like really thin fruit leather. Kind of worried about what my front fuel tank looks like as I can only run about 10 minutes on the front fuel tank without the fuel filter light coming on and some chugging occurs. Any thoughts?
What is the purpose of the electrical connection on the bottom of the filter? Mine is not hooked up, nor does it have a hose coming out the bottom of it. It just has a plug in that space, but doesn't have a spot for an electric connection anywhere.
Question- My fuel filter heater had a bunch of brown gunk on it. Looked and had a consistency almost like really thin fruit leather. Kind of worried about what my front fuel tank looks like as I can only run about 10 minutes on the front fuel tank without the fuel filter light coming on and some chugging occurs. Any thoughts?
What is the purpose of the electrical connection on the bottom of the filter? Mine is not hooked up, nor does it have a hose coming out the bottom of it. It just has a plug in that space, but doesn't have a spot for an electric connection anywhere.
#54
Thanks for the great write ups. I just pulled my 1992 fuel filter housing apart and replaced the o-ring. I used a #016, it fit perfectly. We'll see if it leaks at all but didn't when I flipped on my fuel pump (electric). Macg, your tip on flipping the whole unit upside down was extremely helpful.
Question- My fuel filter heater had a bunch of brown gunk on it. Looked and had a consistency almost like really thin fruit leather. Kind of worried about what my front fuel tank looks like as I can only run about 10 minutes on the front fuel tank without the fuel filter light coming on and some chugging occurs. Any thoughts?
What is the purpose of the electrical connection on the bottom of the filter? Mine is not hooked up, nor does it have a hose coming out the bottom of it. It just has a plug in that space, but doesn't have a spot for an electric connection anywhere.
Question- My fuel filter heater had a bunch of brown gunk on it. Looked and had a consistency almost like really thin fruit leather. Kind of worried about what my front fuel tank looks like as I can only run about 10 minutes on the front fuel tank without the fuel filter light coming on and some chugging occurs. Any thoughts?
What is the purpose of the electrical connection on the bottom of the filter? Mine is not hooked up, nor does it have a hose coming out the bottom of it. It just has a plug in that space, but doesn't have a spot for an electric connection anywhere.
#55
REAR tank runs great, never had a problem with it.... Front tank on the other hand...
#57
Hey guys,
I've been leaking fuel through the fuel heater since winter, finally got around to fixing it. It definitely helps to cause air-intrusion when leaking.
Anyway, as many guys as bought the o-rings from NAPA, nobody put down a part number...
Larger O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Smaller O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Keep in mind that the pictures are representative images, and look NOTHING like the o-rings you'll get.
(And in order to get these links, I had to go to the dumb NAPA, measure the o-rings with a caliper, and then buy them with the part numbers on the drawers they are in. SO STUPID! You can't search napaonline.com for o-rings! I hate their site, it's one of the worst business sites I've ever been to.)
As for Orielly's, they can't even order them into the stores. They have them online, sure, but it'll cost you $10 TO SHIP 2 O-RINGS.
Anywho, these fit great and I'm now 2 days leak-free. Truck starts better too.
Oh and pay attention to the part where you separate the male contact lead from the plastic housing(picture #5 from RupeJosh). I didn't realize there was a barb on it, and ended up breaking that lead. Which is brass so I couldn't solder it... if anyone has one of those in working order I need one! Thanks!
-Joshua
I've been leaking fuel through the fuel heater since winter, finally got around to fixing it. It definitely helps to cause air-intrusion when leaking.
Anyway, as many guys as bought the o-rings from NAPA, nobody put down a part number...
Larger O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Smaller O-ring= NAPA AUTO PARTS
Keep in mind that the pictures are representative images, and look NOTHING like the o-rings you'll get.
(And in order to get these links, I had to go to the dumb NAPA, measure the o-rings with a caliper, and then buy them with the part numbers on the drawers they are in. SO STUPID! You can't search napaonline.com for o-rings! I hate their site, it's one of the worst business sites I've ever been to.)
As for Orielly's, they can't even order them into the stores. They have them online, sure, but it'll cost you $10 TO SHIP 2 O-RINGS.
Anywho, these fit great and I'm now 2 days leak-free. Truck starts better too.
Oh and pay attention to the part where you separate the male contact lead from the plastic housing(picture #5 from RupeJosh). I didn't realize there was a barb on it, and ended up breaking that lead. Which is brass so I couldn't solder it... if anyone has one of those in working order I need one! Thanks!
-Joshua
#58
#60
Josh check our mastercarrs website they have all kinds of parts I use them in the hotel feild and also ordered my orings from them.... for heater and the vitons for injectors