4 cylinder to no start...IDM???
#1
4 cylinder to no start...IDM???
ok guys I am at a loss!! Yesterday I started my truck with no problem. Backed down the drive and noticed nothing...going slow. Put it drive and had no power. Changed fuel filter, oil, cps.....nothing, no diff. Checked all fuses, all ok. swapped relays, horn worked everytime. Unplugged wiring harness on passeneger side valve cover and no change idle was still rough and acceleration was the same. Today the truck will not start but I do have white smoke from tail pipe. I'm thinking the IDM is bad. How do I test it. Where do I get one and to add to it all, I just moved to Murfreesboro, TN last weekend. Any help, advice, offers to come over (food and beer can be provided) would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Scott
317-504-6946
ps, this is my daily driver!!!!!
Thanks
Scott
317-504-6946
ps, this is my daily driver!!!!!
#2
Sounds like it's time to pull the valve covers and have a look, or at least ohm the connectors. If you're getting smoke while cranking, the IDM is trying to fire the injectors. (or at least some of them). A bad injector solenoid can shut down the entire bank, so ohming the connectors may be helpful.
If you've been fiddling with this for a while, make sure to put the batteries on a charger. Weak batteries won't start a truck.
If you've been fiddling with this for a while, make sure to put the batteries on a charger. Weak batteries won't start a truck.
#3
I got it to start again but the passenger side is not firing. I have 2 connectors going into the valve cover(5 pins in each) and I can unplugged them while it is running with no change to the idle or "rev rate". I have ohm them with open,open,open,open,7.6 and the other set was the same except the last pin was 12.7. I can check the supply side but I am not sure what voltage (ac/dc) I'm looking for and from what ports.
Batteries are good
Where is the injector solenoid??? And how do I check it?
Batteries are good
Where is the injector solenoid??? And how do I check it?
#4
The injector solenoid is the square box on top of each injector. That's what you're checking with the ohm test. If you're ohming between the center pin and the injector pins in each connector and getting open readings, it's time to pull the valve cover.
Check for burnt, damaged pins in the connector, loose plugs on the inside, or damaged wiring. Open readings at the valve covers mean the injectors are not receiving any signals to fire. A bad solenoid would just give you one reading that was off, not all of them.
Check for burnt, damaged pins in the connector, loose plugs on the inside, or damaged wiring. Open readings at the valve covers mean the injectors are not receiving any signals to fire. A bad solenoid would just give you one reading that was off, not all of them.
#7
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#8
I can't start the truck right now anyways.
No serpentine belt, and no oil in it.
It's gonna rain here today, so I hope you are in the garage.
I'm down in spring hill right now.
Gotta go pick up them damn pullies today and the right serpentine belt, then get to cleaning on the inside of the truck.
No serpentine belt, and no oil in it.
It's gonna rain here today, so I hope you are in the garage.
I'm down in spring hill right now.
Gotta go pick up them damn pullies today and the right serpentine belt, then get to cleaning on the inside of the truck.
#10
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
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Scott here is a link to a post I made about testing the injectors and UVC with your meter. your on the right track so check it out and report back. I will call you if needed but test this stuff first. If they all check out then we will need to test the wiring from the vc to IDM. If that test fine then you probably need an IDM.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5286089
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ml#post5286089
#11
I've seen an injector reading of 3.2 from a bad solenoid shut down an entire bank, but that was on a super duty which just has one plug per side so there's just one common line for all injectors. I don't know if the IDM would shut down the entire bank or just the 2 injectors on the OBS trucks.
If you don't get anywhere I'll give you a call too, but I'm guessing you'll do better by posting here to get input from more people, especially those with more time under the hood of an OBS.
#12
Passenger front 2 and 3= 18.7 3 and 4= 3.2 rear 2 and 3= 3.7 3 and 4=3.5
Driver front 2 and 3=3.4 3 and 4= 3.3 rear 2 and 3=3.5 3 and 4= 3.2
Removed the valve cover and the wiring looked good
unplugged each injector ( one at a time)=no diff
unplugged drivers side and tried to start= no smoke
question to test wiring from vc to idm just tear apart the plastic race and run them down, I saw no wear marks or melting....not sure where to meter from and to.
I did check voltage from supply side of pins at vc and did see a flash of voltage between both sets of 2 and 3 and 3 and 4 112vdc-117vdc....ac showed no signifigant amount of voltage.
is it possible that the fuel pump is not supplying anything to that side?
Will test gp's tomorrow and forward info.
I'm only 20 minutes from Beans and could drive it that far.
Driver front 2 and 3=3.4 3 and 4= 3.3 rear 2 and 3=3.5 3 and 4= 3.2
Removed the valve cover and the wiring looked good
unplugged each injector ( one at a time)=no diff
unplugged drivers side and tried to start= no smoke
question to test wiring from vc to idm just tear apart the plastic race and run them down, I saw no wear marks or melting....not sure where to meter from and to.
I did check voltage from supply side of pins at vc and did see a flash of voltage between both sets of 2 and 3 and 3 and 4 112vdc-117vdc....ac showed no signifigant amount of voltage.
is it possible that the fuel pump is not supplying anything to that side?
Will test gp's tomorrow and forward info.
I'm only 20 minutes from Beans and could drive it that far.
#15
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Silver Lake Dunes, MI
Posts: 12,835
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Passenger front 2 and 3= 18.7 3 and 4= 3.2 rear 2 and 3= 3.7 3 and 4=3.5
Driver front 2 and 3=3.4 3 and 4= 3.3 rear 2 and 3=3.5 3 and 4= 3.2
Removed the valve cover and the wiring looked good
unplugged each injector ( one at a time)=no diff
unplugged drivers side and tried to start= no smoke
question to test wiring from vc to idm just tear apart the plastic race and run them down, I saw no wear marks or melting....not sure where to meter from and to.
I did check voltage from supply side of pins at vc and did see a flash of voltage between both sets of 2 and 3 and 3 and 4 112vdc-117vdc....ac showed no signifigant amount of voltage.
is it possible that the fuel pump is not supplying anything to that side?
Will test gp's tomorrow and forward info.
I'm only 20 minutes from Beans and could drive it that far.
Driver front 2 and 3=3.4 3 and 4= 3.3 rear 2 and 3=3.5 3 and 4= 3.2
Removed the valve cover and the wiring looked good
unplugged each injector ( one at a time)=no diff
unplugged drivers side and tried to start= no smoke
question to test wiring from vc to idm just tear apart the plastic race and run them down, I saw no wear marks or melting....not sure where to meter from and to.
I did check voltage from supply side of pins at vc and did see a flash of voltage between both sets of 2 and 3 and 3 and 4 112vdc-117vdc....ac showed no signifigant amount of voltage.
is it possible that the fuel pump is not supplying anything to that side?
Will test gp's tomorrow and forward info.
I'm only 20 minutes from Beans and could drive it that far.
Also to test the wiring to the IDM here is a wiring diagram that you can use to check the resistance of each wire to make sure there are no breaks.